Duane Behrens

No, I haven't, actually. Thanks for the reminder. I did note a small patch of black along one side of the front rim, that has to be where it is occurring. I'll clean that up and examine carefully. Appreciate the help. DB

noglider 

And is this a Japan- or Taiwan-made bike? Not that it matters. They were both good.

Phil_gretz

Black patch = rim untrue spot. True it out.

Duane Behrens

Lessee. In the past 24 hours, I've:

1. Ordered new wheels. Threaded for a freewheel and built for a 126mm dropout. Wheel Master Weinmann LP18 Wheel Set - 700c, 36H, 5/6/7-Speed FW, QR, Silver from GREEN CANYON. They almost certainly won't be as attractive as the OEM Arya's they'll replace. But maybe they won't try to buck me off with each revolution of the wheel.

2. Also ordered TWO new RDs: a Shimano RD-3500 Sora (medium cage), and a Shimano Tourney TX35. Either/both are advertised as accepting of the 14x34 6-speed sprocket, 52x42 chain rings, and resultant 30 tooth chain wrap required for the Raleigh as it sits now.

And of course a couple of new chains and master links; 7.2mm pin length.

Duane Behrens

Thanks. I've settled on the 6-speed 14x28 freewheel assembly. It's still called a "Mega Range", but the gap between second and first is much smaller, only 4 teeth if I remember correctly. Turns out I don't need that 34-tooth cog. At least, not yet. :-)

HillRider

Four teeth out of 14 doesn't qualify as only. Assuming the gearing is 14/18/XX/etc. that's a 29% jump!

Duane Behrens

It's smaller than the 28 to 34 that WAS on there. And it is manageable.

Ed Garner

Thanks for this thread. I have the same bike (bought new 30 years ago..) and used this to guide my rehab of my 1984 Super Course. Turns out the bike might have been a bit small for me... looking at having to get a longer seat post and get a 180 mm crankset.... (It's a 62cm frame... I'm 6'6" and prob could use a 64... but since I have legs on the long side, it might be better to get a longer crank and longer seat post. That would leave the measurements to the drops still comfortable for my upper body..)
Anyway, I am looking for suggestions for a new crankset, seatpost... and down the road new Mega freewheel and F & R derailers....
So keep sharing what you do to yours!

Thanks, Ed

Duane Behrens

Some months later, with the Super Course now mostly dialed in and correct. Ultegra brakes and hoods have replaced the OEM DiaCompes, Weinmann wheels (threaded to accept a freewheel) have replaced the OEM, pulsing Arayas. And - the most profound improvement - the OEM Shimano shifters have been replaced with NOS, ratcheting Suntour Power Shifters. The chain no longer tries to move down the rear sprocket assembly under load.

All that sorted, I turned my attention to the relative difficulty of pedaling this machine up the long, steep hills in our area.The original Super Course came with a 144bcd, 52x42 chain ring set from Sugino. Out back, the matching six-speed, freewheel sprocket assembly was an equally aggressive 14x23. Compared to my other bike (a carbon-framed Tarmac with a 53x39 / 12x30 gear combination), the Super Course is a real workout on the same hills; I tended to just stand up in 2nd or 3rd gear for the entire ascent. So I "made do" by purchasing and installing a new 14x28 freewheel. This at least allowed me to get up the hills here, although I was still mashing (or standing) a bit much.

Last month and needing a new project, I purchased a couple of Centurion bicycles; a Lemans 12 and a Lemans RS, both needing significant work to become road worthy again.

In addition to a difference in their original price (the RS was apparently more expensive when new), the two bikes also differed in their cranksets; the Lemans RS carried a 144bcd and a 52x42 Sugino crankset, exactly like the Super Course.

But - and the point of this post - the Lemans 12, sold as a high-end "recreational" bike with its kickstand and 1 1/4" tires, came with a more moderate 110BCD, 52x40 crankset. Someone here suggested I try swapping out the 110BCD from the Centurion bike with the 144bcd on the Super Course.

So I gave that a try on Wednesday morning. Prior to doing so, I measured both BB spindles. The Super Course and Lemans spindles were nearly identical at 127 and 126 mm, respectively. But the spindle from the Lemans was offset (longer on the drive side) by 5mm. So I figured I'd have to swap out both the cranksets AND the spindles in order to make it work. The Super Course BB bearings weren't due for service, but did I have a choice?

It only took a minute to install the 110 BCD crankset onto the Super Course without removing the BB innards. So I did that and took a few measurements, just to see how far off I'd be if I DIDN'T swap out the spindles. Using a 43.5mm chainline (the distance from the center of the BB to the midpoint between the 2 chainrings) as the ideal, I measured and did the math. I wasn't hopeful, since I've read that the BB spindle length was dictated by the crankset. I figured the shorter drive-side dimension of the Super Course would bring the inner chainring on the 110 bcd inboard too far, causing it to rub on the chainstay.

Nope. Measurements and calcs indicated a chainline dimension of 44.5mm . . . nearly perfect. And there remains app. 3mm clearance between the inner chain ring and the RH chainstay. As if the Centurion crankset had been designed for the Super Course!

The FD required a bit of adjustment but came in easily and quickly. It all worked silently, as it should, and I enjoyed that slightly smaller inner ring on the ascents. (I'll probably swap IT out with an even smaller 36t ring, then maybe return the freewheel assembly to the stock 14x23 with its smaller gaps between cogs.)

I AM puzzled by that offset on the Centurion's OEM BB spindle. Why did they want to move the chainrings outboard by 2.5 mm from the ideal 43.5, to produce (as I make it) a chainline of around 46.5mm?

Eh. Never mind. I'm lucky that it worked out so well. And I'm learning how to take the guesswork out of establishing spindle length on a rebuild. Best. DB

Duane Behrens

Just saw this post, Ed. Welcome, and I hope my account (above) might help you a bit more. Very much looking forward to your posts and pics here.

Duane Behrens

Here is the Super Course with the 110BCD (filched from an '84 Centurion Lemans 12) and the 34T inner chain ring installed.

I put 3/16" black nylon plugs into the holes that once anchored the pants guard.

It's still not as pretty as the angled lines of the OEM 52x42 144BCD. . . . but should be functional as hell. Re-adjusted the front derailleur tonight, will give it a good long test ride in the morning.

MikeWMass

I have a 5 speed 14-28. It is 14-17-20-24-28, so your 6 speed would not have more than 4 tooth gap. I have a mega 6 speed on an old tandem that has the above and then jumps to 34.
It strikes me that, with all the work you do and all the bikes you are restoring, you might want to learn to true your own wheels. It is not that difficult, just takes a calm and considered approach.
Also, as mentioned above, the original cable housings look like they were put on backwards, the "extension" is meant to go under the bar tape.