Mtb headset compression using compression plug
#1
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Mtb headset compression using compression plug
Hello all,
I jut installed a rs revelation fork on my hardtail using a compression plug as a headset compressor. I am getting a fair deal of compression on the headset and I don't have any play in the bearings (at least using the front brake and shake method). I have had a bike mechanic look at the headset and he says there is "enough" compression on the headset.
My question is this: my usual method of setting headset compression is to loosen the stem bolts and tighten the headset bolt until my headset bearings feel a bit of binding. Then I back off until the bearings run smooth. I can't reach the pout. Where my headset bearings begin to bind. Any thoughts on whether or not this technique ( which I learned from a old school mechanic) makes sense would be great. The steering is super fast now and it just makes the bike feel like there isn't enough tightness.
Thanks!
I jut installed a rs revelation fork on my hardtail using a compression plug as a headset compressor. I am getting a fair deal of compression on the headset and I don't have any play in the bearings (at least using the front brake and shake method). I have had a bike mechanic look at the headset and he says there is "enough" compression on the headset.
My question is this: my usual method of setting headset compression is to loosen the stem bolts and tighten the headset bolt until my headset bearings feel a bit of binding. Then I back off until the bearings run smooth. I can't reach the pout. Where my headset bearings begin to bind. Any thoughts on whether or not this technique ( which I learned from a old school mechanic) makes sense would be great. The steering is super fast now and it just makes the bike feel like there isn't enough tightness.
Thanks!
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Technique doesn't matter if the end result is the same. You have a headset system you're able to adjust correctly -- free movement and no play -- so what's the problem?
I do the job differently, tightening until play is gone, then checking for free movement, but that doesn't matter.
If plug slippage prevents your from the over-tighten and back off system from working, either increase plug traction, or adapt.
I do the job differently, tightening until play is gone, then checking for free movement, but that doesn't matter.
If plug slippage prevents your from the over-tighten and back off system from working, either increase plug traction, or adapt.
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If there is no play in the headset when rocking the bike against the locked front brake, the headset is tight enough. Modern cartridge bearing headsets can take a fair bit of preload without binding so that's not a good criteria for adjustment. There is never any benefit in having the headset bind as long as there is no play or slop.
As a check, be sure the compression plug hasn't moved up under the adjusting bolt's tension and be sure you have a couple of mm gap between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem or top spacer. If the plug has slipped or the steerer is flush with the top of the stem you will not be able to adjust the headset any further.
As a check, be sure the compression plug hasn't moved up under the adjusting bolt's tension and be sure you have a couple of mm gap between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem or top spacer. If the plug has slipped or the steerer is flush with the top of the stem you will not be able to adjust the headset any further.
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Thanks for the replies. Seeing as how I have no play I won't worry about it.