mconlonx

No.

rpenmanparker 

There are methods, but they are haphazard at best. If you have a wheel with the same components that was competently built, you can just mimic the tone of the spokes when they are plucked. If the components are different, the spokes are different lengths and gauges from any wheel you already have, the tones on the model wheel aren't much help for the new wheel. One method from the past was to keep tightening the spokes (evenly) until the frame "potato chips" or "tacoes". Then back off until the rim lays flat again and evenly tension and true below that limit. It is fairly likely that the latter method could lead to rim hole failure due to over tightening.

I'm with you: why try so hard not to do it the best way for a cost of only $60?

rpenmanparker 

I do it all the time.

RubeRad

This seems most sensible to me. Compare the labor portion of handbuilt wheels (i.e. total cost to you - parts cost to you) to the cost of the tools, and ask yourself how many pairs of wheels do you plan to build in a lifetime? I think you'll find it doesn't pay off financially for just yourself, but it may still be worth it for the fun and experience and learning.

mconlonx

Are you a first time wheelbuilder who needs to purchase tools?

What's your component build list for a sub-1500g wheelset?

Ut! On me -- OP was confusing: talked about 1500g wheelset, went on to say rear wheel only. I don't doubt that a decent rear wheel can be built for less than $500, including wheel building tools; I'm not sure a sub-1500g wheelset can be built for that money.

rms13

My rear rim is beyond being able to properly true. So I only need a rear wheel. For sake of savings I could just build one wheel now and keep front. But obviously having a new matching set would be preferred

rpenmanparker 

I would use Kinlin XR-270 rims, Novatec or Bike Hub Store light hubs (something like 295 g for the pair) and 20/24 DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes. Alloy or brass nipples as you prefer. That is (approximately) 890 g for the rims, 285 g for the hubs, 220 g for the spokes and nipples or 1,405 g total. Total cost delivered is around $245. Add in some rim tape, and you still have plenty of money for tools. Plenty of both weight and money to spare. If you want a wider rim, you can use Velocity A23s for about 10 weight and $50 more cost. Like I said before, easy-peasey.

davidad

I have the older Minoura stand and have built and repaired over 20 wheels for myself an friends. It has served me well.
Minoura Truing Stand (without T-Gauge) - Modern Bike
I have the Wheelsmith tension meter and wouldn't hesitate to get the Park.
You might consider the 105 or even Tiagra rear hub for your first build.
After you have finished, if you don't think you would do again sell the tools on line to recoup some of the cost.

rpenmanparker 

The Tiagra hub is beautiful and very inexpensive. But it is quite heavy and not consistent with a light weight, low spoke count build.

davidad

How Quite heavy? 2 or 3 ounces?

JohnDThompson 

For wheels with laced spoke patterns and 28 or more spokes per wheel, the range of "correct" tension values is broad enough that a beginner, using, e.g. the method suggested above by westlafadeaway, can build a perfectly acceptable wheel. He can then bring the wheel in to his LBS to check tension values if he so chooses. This saves him the purchase of a fairly expensive tool that at best in a home environment would likely only be used a few times over the years.

rms13

has anyone used the Feedback Pro stand?

Amazon.com : Feedback Sports Wheel Truing Station (Red) : Bike Workstands : Sports & Outdoors

Looks better quality than the Minoura but is one arm enough?

IthaDan 

Didn't read the thread, but the take home is to not get greedy and go slow.

Like a quarter turn per nipple slow, if you rush it. You'll have to undo it later.

rms13

Haha. Thanks. The thread has gone off in other directions but that's probably the most important advice I've gotten

rpenmanparker 

Actually for the pair of hubs the difference between Tiagra and BHS light hubs is roughly 7.5 oz or close to a half pound. Nothing wrong with that, but you can't pretend you are building light wheels with hubs like that. And OP did ask about light wheels right at the outset.

rpenmanparker 

The method described by @westlafadeaway is a crap shoot if your spoke length and diameter and contact points for crossed spokes don't match between the model wheel and the one being built. It is just a guessing game.

RubeRad

rms13, your profile lists your bikes as Fyxation Eastside, CAAD9 -- did you get rid of your crosscheck?

rms13

Yeah. Never fit me right. I had a 54 that was a little small and returned it for a 56 that was too big.