Clicking noise when peddling
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Clicking noise when peddling
Need some help here guys, on the last couple rides my bicycle(Kona Splice cross trail 2013) has developed a clicking noise when peddling. The noise seems to come from the front of the drive train and seems to be more pronounced when I put more power on the pedals(climbing hills).
I've owned the bicycle for 6 months and have used it for road style riding logging in about 50-100 miles a week.
Any ideas and suggestions?
I've owned the bicycle for 6 months and have used it for road style riding logging in about 50-100 miles a week.
Any ideas and suggestions?
#2
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KonaRider125, It can be the chain rubbing on the FD cage, a loose pedal or a loose bottom bracket. Does it matter which chain ring is used?
Brad
Brad
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Brad thanks for the input. It does not matter what front chainring the chain is in, still makes the sound.
I checked the FD cage and the chains not rubbing against that...
I checked the FD cage and the chains not rubbing against that...
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It seems to happen with either pedal, thanks.
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The clicking noise seems to happen both in and out of the saddle.
I assume I need to order a special bottom bracket wrench to tighten/replace it. Is it possible that the bottom bracket is worn out after only about 2000-2500 miles?
I assume I need to order a special bottom bracket wrench to tighten/replace it. Is it possible that the bottom bracket is worn out after only about 2000-2500 miles?
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Check the chain to be sure there isn't a link that's sticking. I had the same/similar clicking noise last year, and finally traced it to a couple of chain links that had become a bit stiff. Going over the cogs in any of the front three gears didn't make any difference. That's how I figured it had to be the chain for that to happen. Sure enough, I found two stiff links that apparently had gotten something lodged internally that was causing it to stiffen up. A good degreasing, cleaning and lubricating, freed the links up and no more clicking noise. Running the chain backwards usually finds any stubborn links in a hurry.
Last edited by 1 Miyata Biker; 06-15-14 at 11:10 AM.
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For this problem I like to start with what is easiest first. Try tightening the pedals, if they are just a little loose, you can get the clicking sound you mention.
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I had a similar sound once that turned out to be coming from the saddle. The saddle clamp was not seated just right and clicked like your describing. Another time it was trash in the pedal but that only clicked when clipped in to that pedal.
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Check the chain to be sure there isn't a link that's sticking. I had the same/similar clicking noise last year, and finally traced it to a chain link that had become a bit stiff. going over the cogs in any of the front three gears didn't make any difference. That's how I figured it had to be the chain for that to happen. Sure enough, I found a stiff link that apparently had gotten something lodged internally that was causing it to stiffen up. A good degreasing, cleaning and lubricating, freed the link up and no more clicking noise. Running the chain backwards usually finds any stubborn links in a hurry.
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I check the saddle clamp everything seems tight.
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Am I looking at needing to replace my bottom bracket?
#16
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To others posting "solutions" - PLEASE get some experience and use some logic before jumping to conclusions or making guesses.
NOT a tight link - that does not cause clicking under pressure, and only shows itself once per chain revolution - which is less than once per pedal revolution.
NOT likely the BB going bad - it might exhibit play or grinding but bearings don't typically click under pressure when bad.
NOT BB play - that causes a clunking sound/feel, not clicking.
NOT the front derailleur rubbing - the OP described clicking under pressure, which has nothing to do with the front derailleur, as it happens irrespective of chainwheel position or which chainwheel the chain is on.
The number one cause of clicking under pressure, especially on a newer bike, is insufficient tightening of cranks or pedals. Because torque applied ot the pedal/crank is transmitted across to the other crank the problem often shows up no matter what pedal is being pushed. Chainwheel bolts can also cause the problem, and on some BB's insufficient tightening of other parts can also cause clicking. One needs to eliminate each cause in turn until the click disappears. For more info see: Creaks, Clicks & Clunks
If the shop where you bought it offers post purchase adjustments take advantage of the service. Generally everything should be checked after a month or two of riding.
NOT a tight link - that does not cause clicking under pressure, and only shows itself once per chain revolution - which is less than once per pedal revolution.
NOT likely the BB going bad - it might exhibit play or grinding but bearings don't typically click under pressure when bad.
NOT BB play - that causes a clunking sound/feel, not clicking.
NOT the front derailleur rubbing - the OP described clicking under pressure, which has nothing to do with the front derailleur, as it happens irrespective of chainwheel position or which chainwheel the chain is on.
The number one cause of clicking under pressure, especially on a newer bike, is insufficient tightening of cranks or pedals. Because torque applied ot the pedal/crank is transmitted across to the other crank the problem often shows up no matter what pedal is being pushed. Chainwheel bolts can also cause the problem, and on some BB's insufficient tightening of other parts can also cause clicking. One needs to eliminate each cause in turn until the click disappears. For more info see: Creaks, Clicks & Clunks
If the shop where you bought it offers post purchase adjustments take advantage of the service. Generally everything should be checked after a month or two of riding.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-09-14 at 06:09 AM.
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cny-bikeman, Thank you for the helpful response and link. What you said makes sense, and you sound very knowledgeable about bicycles so I'll take your advise.
What is the next step I should take? Should I order a bottom bracket wrench and give tightening it down a try and see if that solves the problem? I am trying to accumulate bike tools anyways so spending money on a wrench is fine with me.
What is the next step I should take? Should I order a bottom bracket wrench and give tightening it down a try and see if that solves the problem? I am trying to accumulate bike tools anyways so spending money on a wrench is fine with me.
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Don't laugh at me but I recently went thought a similar situation.
Click, click, click.. Mine was random however. I checked everything and I mean everything.. No dice!
Yesterday when I was servicing my bike I removed my RoadID bracelet that I keep attached to my saddle bag.. Rode yesterday = no clicking.. Rode today = no clicking.
I believe it was the metal plate on my RoadID bracelet hitting the seat post.. I was 100% sure the clicking sound was coming from the crank or the BB but apparently, it was my RoadID..
Click, click, click.. Mine was random however. I checked everything and I mean everything.. No dice!
Yesterday when I was servicing my bike I removed my RoadID bracelet that I keep attached to my saddle bag.. Rode yesterday = no clicking.. Rode today = no clicking.
I believe it was the metal plate on my RoadID bracelet hitting the seat post.. I was 100% sure the clicking sound was coming from the crank or the BB but apparently, it was my RoadID..
Last edited by raqball; 06-08-14 at 10:18 PM.
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I had an annoying click in the cranks years ago, a duller click not a metallic click like a derailer rub, and it was once or twice per crank rev..
It was turned out to be a very slightly loose cartridge-type BB non-driveside ring. There was no discernible play, just loose enough that the two pieces could shift enough to make the noise.
If it is a standard cartridge BB(as opposed to external bearings, old cup and cone, or one of the proprietary fancy wigits) The wrench is actually a socket for use on a torque wrench. Always tighten the main cartridge(drive side) first, then the non-drive compression ring. The main side will come up tight and stop, the compression ring side does not have a distinct stop it just gets tighter as it is turned. Follow the manufacturers suggested lube type and torque(they work together, the wrong lube(EP grease vs 30wt oil) will have torque off by 30%)
It was turned out to be a very slightly loose cartridge-type BB non-driveside ring. There was no discernible play, just loose enough that the two pieces could shift enough to make the noise.
If it is a standard cartridge BB(as opposed to external bearings, old cup and cone, or one of the proprietary fancy wigits) The wrench is actually a socket for use on a torque wrench. Always tighten the main cartridge(drive side) first, then the non-drive compression ring. The main side will come up tight and stop, the compression ring side does not have a distinct stop it just gets tighter as it is turned. Follow the manufacturers suggested lube type and torque(they work together, the wrong lube(EP grease vs 30wt oil) will have torque off by 30%)
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"For this problem I like to start with what is easiest first. Try tightening the pedals..."
Try removing, cleaning, greasing and then correctly torquing the pedals; I use pedal washers as well. This will catch not only loose pedals but those with debris in the threads and mating surfaces, another common cause of clicking.
Swapping the pedals with another pair will also help eliminate the pedals themselves as sources of the noise; swapping with platform pedals will also help eliminate clip and cleat noises.
Try removing, cleaning, greasing and then correctly torquing the pedals; I use pedal washers as well. This will catch not only loose pedals but those with debris in the threads and mating surfaces, another common cause of clicking.
Swapping the pedals with another pair will also help eliminate the pedals themselves as sources of the noise; swapping with platform pedals will also help eliminate clip and cleat noises.
#21
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For more info see (click on link): Creaks, Clicks & Clunks Also read more on Sheldon's site about bottom brackets and cranks. Tightening cranks is a different process than tightening the bottom bracket rings. Your bottom bracket is a cartridge type, does not get adjusted, no maintenance necessary or possible. It's most likely that the pedals or cranks need to be tightened.
If the shop where you bought it offers post purchase adjustments take advantage of the service. Generally everything should be checked after a month or two of riding.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-15-14 at 07:15 AM.
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I'm getting a sound that seems similar to what the OP has described, but this is on a bike that I bought just over a year ago and have 5000ish miles on. I just replaced the chain, cassette, and shifter cables last month, this is an issue that's shown up in the last few weeks or so. I did notice that there seems to be an inordinate amount of play in the rear derailleur pulleys, but the sound seems to be coming from the crankset. I don't really feel it, just hear the noise, and it happens between 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock (when looking at the drive side) on the right pedal, when pedaling hard.
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If your bike is still under warranty, take it back to the shop and get them to deal with it. Don't go wrenching a bike that's still covered - it's a waste of money and time that may end up costing you big-time.
I've found that many sharp clicking noises coming from a crank are due to the cartridge bottom bracket moving very very slightly inside the BB shell of the frame. I've found that anti-seize compound (not grease) smeared onto the threads before installation solves it. I know others and some manufacturers use thread-locking compounds.
I've found that many sharp clicking noises coming from a crank are due to the cartridge bottom bracket moving very very slightly inside the BB shell of the frame. I've found that anti-seize compound (not grease) smeared onto the threads before installation solves it. I know others and some manufacturers use thread-locking compounds.
#24
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I'm getting a sound that seems similar to what the OP has described, but this is on a bike that I bought just over a year ago and have 5000ish miles on. I just replaced the chain, cassette, and shifter cables last month, this is an issue that's shown up in the last few weeks or so. I did notice that there seems to be an inordinate amount of play in the rear derailleur pulleys, but the sound seems to be coming from the crankset. I don't really feel it, just hear the noise, and it happens between 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock (when looking at the drive side) on the right pedal, when pedaling hard.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-15-14 at 07:15 AM.