Noise from the rear wheel, tear-down help needed
06-13-14, 06:20 AM
#1
Have bike, will travel
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
Noise from the rear wheel, tear-down help needed
I have a older road bike wheel for my 1986 Serotta. It's a Shimano 600 tricolor 130mm hub for cassette. It has a 8-speed cassette installed. The rim is a Mavic Open Pro that is about 25 years old.
The wheel makes a rattling sound that I want to eliminate. It is also no longer true, and I'll have a pro rebuild it with new spokes. First, I want to eliminate the source of the noise.
I've just changed the cassette, just to make sure the cassette is not the source of the noise. My current theory is that loose eyelets in the rim might be the problem. The hub seems fine, no mechanical issues in the last 500 miles.
What steps should I go through to isolate the parts of the wheel that is causing the noise?
The wheel makes a rattling sound that I want to eliminate. It is also no longer true, and I'll have a pro rebuild it with new spokes. First, I want to eliminate the source of the noise.
I've just changed the cassette, just to make sure the cassette is not the source of the noise. My current theory is that loose eyelets in the rim might be the problem. The hub seems fine, no mechanical issues in the last 500 miles.
What steps should I go through to isolate the parts of the wheel that is causing the noise?
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
06-13-14, 06:40 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,124
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4224 Post(s)
Liked 3,917 Times
in
2,336 Posts
You need to separate the various aspects that might be causing the noise from each other. Does it rattle only when riding? Only when pedaling VS coasting?
If you're considering a new rim and spokes on the old hub then before you do you should open up the hub bearings and see their condition. Are the axle cones pitted or rough? When the wheel is spinning, secured in the frame without a chain, how does the wheel feel? Place a finger on the axle end and can you sense any vibration/roughness? Then repeat but with the freehub body held still (as in how it is when coasting)?
Rattle is not the usual term used to describe a hub or freehub bearing roughness. Still if you're going to the expense and effort to relace a new rim, the hub's condition should be determined and judged as to it's worthiness. Andy.
If you're considering a new rim and spokes on the old hub then before you do you should open up the hub bearings and see their condition. Are the axle cones pitted or rough? When the wheel is spinning, secured in the frame without a chain, how does the wheel feel? Place a finger on the axle end and can you sense any vibration/roughness? Then repeat but with the freehub body held still (as in how it is when coasting)?
Rattle is not the usual term used to describe a hub or freehub bearing roughness. Still if you're going to the expense and effort to relace a new rim, the hub's condition should be determined and judged as to it's worthiness. Andy.
06-13-14, 06:42 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,437
Bikes: NOYB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
There aren't many components of a wheel that can come loose to the point of rattling.
I suspect it's the little aluminum sleeve inside the rim at the SUP welded seam that has come loose. It's not an uncommon problem with older Mavic Open Pros. (Which weren't around 25 years ago - they're probably more like 10 years old.) You can try "gluing" the sleeve in place by squirting a bunch of watery glue (like Superglue) into the rim through the valve hole and then waiting for it to run down to the opposite side and harden, but most of the people I know who have run into this have either just ignored it (it's only noticeable when the wheel isn't rotating) or replaced the rim with a completely new one.
I suspect it's the little aluminum sleeve inside the rim at the SUP welded seam that has come loose. It's not an uncommon problem with older Mavic Open Pros. (Which weren't around 25 years ago - they're probably more like 10 years old.) You can try "gluing" the sleeve in place by squirting a bunch of watery glue (like Superglue) into the rim through the valve hole and then waiting for it to run down to the opposite side and harden, but most of the people I know who have run into this have either just ignored it (it's only noticeable when the wheel isn't rotating) or replaced the rim with a completely new one.
