V-Brakes updating from Canti's
#1
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V-Brakes updating from Canti's
I am upgrading to old school but nice Advids from crappy cantis but the levers are not V specific ..will it work?
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V-brakes require a longer cable pull than cantis. Your canti levers may not pull enough cable to work well with V-brakes, although they will have plenty of leverage. You may be able to get them to work if you adjust the pads very close to the rims but then they will be very sensitive to wheel trueness.
#3
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pulling the lever , pulls the cable causes the brake pads to squeeze the rim,
and the friction slows the rim & thus the bike.
a V lever pulls more cable , becayse the long arm, MA of the V caliper requires it ..
Avid (A Division of SRAM) makes Cantilever calipers and V types I'd stick with one of Avid's cantilevers
or TRP's short arm V if you dont want to buy new brake levers too.
and the friction slows the rim & thus the bike.
a V lever pulls more cable , becayse the long arm, MA of the V caliper requires it ..
Avid (A Division of SRAM) makes Cantilever calipers and V types I'd stick with one of Avid's cantilevers
or TRP's short arm V if you dont want to buy new brake levers too.
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-13-14 at 10:30 AM.
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Tektro cr720 cantis are excellent and easy to set up.
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Cheap, decent-quality V-brake levers are widely available. It's safest to just swap out your old ones for some new compatible ones.
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I'm under the impression that mini v-brakes are compatible with a shorter cable pull, IE brifter or canti lever pull.
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With true wheels it'll work just fine up front. For the rear, since the longer cables run introduces more things to flex and compress, it can be a pain to find that sweet spot where the inactive brake still clears the rim and the active brake can achieve wheel lock w/o the lever bottoming out against the bar.
I've never been troubled by the supposedly dangerous characteristics of mismatched brakes + levers. Rim brakes always change quite a lot between short braking, longer braking, dry braking, wet braking etc.
Compared to these, the error introduced by lever mismatch isn't an issue.
I've never been troubled by the supposedly dangerous characteristics of mismatched brakes + levers. Rim brakes always change quite a lot between short braking, longer braking, dry braking, wet braking etc.
Compared to these, the error introduced by lever mismatch isn't an issue.
#8
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I'm under the impression that mini v-brakes are compatible with a shorter cable pull,
IE brifter or canti lever pull.
IE brifter or canti lever pull.
but the pivot to brake pad reach remaining the same..
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My old RoadMaster 21-speed mountain bike (likely a 1998 based upon early and mid 1997 date codes on its OEM Shimano components) came with Shimano EF20 integrated 3x7 shifters/brake levers which were made for traditional cantilever brake usage. I’m still using these EF20’s, as they work perfectly and its front shifter actually provides trim positions!
Last summer I removed its front cantilever brake and installed a standard length Acera V-Brake, but continued to use the EF20’s. Braking works quite well via the shorter throw of its integrated canti brake lever however, setup and final adjustment of the V-Brake is a bit more critical in order to provide the necessary brake throw and brake pad clearance for V-Brake usage. So long as you know what you’re doing, the shorter throw canti brake levers work fine with a standard length V-Brake.
It’s a year later and I haven’t had to make any adjustments to my front V-Brake, so it’s proven to be a workable combo. And yes, I’ve had to make my fair share of emergency slow downs for cars that simply pull out of side streets at the last second and via the numerous right hookers that pass me then cut directly in front as they brake hard to make the right turn in 15 to 30 feet, and braking performance doesn’t pay a premium via the shorter throw of its integrated canti brake lever.
Naturally, I’d prefer the longer throw V-Brake levers however, I’d have to purchase new V-Brake levers as well as new shifters, but these old EF20’s work too well to simply toss them aside. You’d think they’d be beat after all these years (a little WD40 is all it took to make them fully functional after it sat in a neighbor’s garage for several years).
Last summer I removed its front cantilever brake and installed a standard length Acera V-Brake, but continued to use the EF20’s. Braking works quite well via the shorter throw of its integrated canti brake lever however, setup and final adjustment of the V-Brake is a bit more critical in order to provide the necessary brake throw and brake pad clearance for V-Brake usage. So long as you know what you’re doing, the shorter throw canti brake levers work fine with a standard length V-Brake.
It’s a year later and I haven’t had to make any adjustments to my front V-Brake, so it’s proven to be a workable combo. And yes, I’ve had to make my fair share of emergency slow downs for cars that simply pull out of side streets at the last second and via the numerous right hookers that pass me then cut directly in front as they brake hard to make the right turn in 15 to 30 feet, and braking performance doesn’t pay a premium via the shorter throw of its integrated canti brake lever.
Naturally, I’d prefer the longer throw V-Brake levers however, I’d have to purchase new V-Brake levers as well as new shifters, but these old EF20’s work too well to simply toss them aside. You’d think they’d be beat after all these years (a little WD40 is all it took to make them fully functional after it sat in a neighbor’s garage for several years).
#10
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Travel Agents if you want to go to the trouble. We have them on three bikes in the family, including our tandem. They make V-brakes compatible with STI levers and ours work very well. The prices is OK, but you have to decide if that is acceptable to you along with the additional fiddling to fit them.
I've experienced V-brakes with non-compatible levers and no Travel Agents, and the need for continued fine adjustment and potential no braking effort at all make them a no-go for me.
I've experienced V-brakes with non-compatible levers and no Travel Agents, and the need for continued fine adjustment and potential no braking effort at all make them a no-go for me.
#11
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While the mismatched combo may work well enough, the cost of new or used v-brake specific levers is so low that I wouldn't bother with the kluge. Just get matching levers. I paid $35 for my brand new, most recent model, Deore levers, with cables and housing. You could get some a lot cheaper than that too.
I would only use Travel Agents if you have brifters and want to keep the set. If you have separate levers just get new levers.
I would only use Travel Agents if you have brifters and want to keep the set. If you have separate levers just get new levers.
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