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  1. #1
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    Bad shifting new roadbike

    Hi Guys,

    I just bought a cheap new roadbike, a Merida Ride 94.
    It's equipped with Shimano 105 Triple shifters, front & rear dérailleur. A KMC x10 chain, Tiagra CS-4600-10 12-28 sprocket and an R563 triple crankset.
    All this is factory mounted.
    The bike rolls good enough for me but I do have one problem:

    Problem: Poor shifting from the rear dérailleur and a noisy (rattling) drive train.
    Could this be caused by the Tiagra sprocket? Or is it because the parts are new and needed to get 'used' to each other?
    Because I checked cables, chain and correct setup of the dérailleur I'm also thinking about the dérailleur hanger might be out of center.

    Any ideas?



    thanks

  2. #2
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    By "checked cables," did you mean you adjusted the cable tension so the RD lines up with the correct cog in a given gear?
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RPK79's Avatar
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    All gears or just some gears?

  4. #4
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    Cable tension is adjusted, also min and max movement.
    Or it shifts good up and bad down or visa-versa.
    When I finetune the tension of the cable, shifting gears improve in up or down, but not both ways.

    The rattling sound is continues, sounds like the chain is willing to change a cog, but it doesn't. (a ticking noise, mostly in the same pattern)

  5. #5
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    might want to check the cassette lockring is tight. if so, the cassette itself may still be loose and need a small (1mm or less) spacer to take up the slack.

  6. #6
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    You Get it from a shop ? that new they should help at N/C.

  7. #7
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    Cassette is tight, I've been told by the mechanic in the shop, to ride for 250miles and then recheck everything. Things have to set themselves to each other.

  8. #8
    Senior Member demoncyclist's Avatar
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    wrong- bring it back and have them set it up correctly. It should run smoothly and quietly, and shift to all gears precisely and properly. The cables will bed in over time and need periodic adjustment, which they should do free of charge.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_linux View Post
    Cassette is tight, I've been told by the mechanic in the shop, to ride for 250miles and then recheck everything. Things have to set themselves to each other.
    could make a difference, but it should be quiet right from the git-go.

    sounds like he or she wants you to go away for a while. too bad it's so difficult to ride 250 miles in one day. otherwise you could have come back later on that day and, if it wasn't any better, asked the mech again!

  10. #10
    Senior Member awfulwaffle's Avatar
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    My full Tiagra drivetrain was great from the start, so methinks that break-in suggestion is baloney. I'd start fresh with RD cable adjustment, reclamping the cable with a tiny bit of slack and shifter set to the smallest cog and tuning it with the barrel adjuster.

  11. #11
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    In my case it feels like, for shifting up, I have to press the lever a little further than the click before the selected gear is taken by the chain.
    If I give a little more tension to the dr cable, this issue is gone, but the other issue starts.
    Shifting down, the chain 'waits' a little time before falling a cog smaller.

    For being honest, I would believe it when they told me that a cheap bike has its downs.
    But reading above posts, I don't think so anymore.

  12. #12
    Senior Member CACycling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_linux View Post
    For being honest, I would believe it when they told me that a cheap bike has its downs.
    But reading above posts, I don't think so anymore.
    First, that is not a cheap bike. 105 components are very solid and should operate smoothly from the first ride. Lower level cassette adds a bit of weight, not shifting problems. Keep pushing till they get it right.

  13. #13
    Senior Member RPK79's Avatar
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    Is the chain on backwards? 5700 chains are unidirectional and the printing should be on the outside.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RPK79 View Post
    Is the chain on backwards? 5700 chains are unidirectional and the printing should be on the outside.
    It's a KMC X10 Chain

  15. #15
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    You Get it from a shop ? that new they should help at N/C.
    That's what I was thinking. 105/Tiagra equipped is not a cheap bike. It should work smoothly and quietly from the start.

    My guess is it just needs a little tuneing including checking the derailleur hanger alignment.
    My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_linux View Post
    In my case it feels like, for shifting up, I have to press the lever a little further than the click before the selected gear is taken by the chain.
    If I give a little more tension to the dr cable, this issue is gone, but the other issue starts.
    Shifting down, the chain 'waits' a little time before falling a cog smaller.
    That sounds like hanger alignment to me. The cogs on 10 speed cassettes are so closely spaced that hanger alignment has to be pretty close to spot-on for the indexing to work properly.
    My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.

  17. #17
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    I agree that it's unacceptable for the shop to let a bike that shifts that poorly out of the shop. They should be perfectly happy to have you come in and adjust it for you. Don't ask for permission, just bring it in. The "break in" period almost all has to do with what they call "cable stretch" which is really not stretch, but just the cable housings settling into their contact points. A well built bike should have this taken care of before it leaves the shop and therefore little or no "cable stretch". So that 250 mile BS is just BS. It should be good from the get-go and it's extremely poor customer service that they're showing.

    Also- ANY Shimano group should function very satisfactorily, and probably perfectly if installed and adjusted properly. Doesn't matter if it's Dura Ace or Tiagra or Sora. Seriously. The stuff you have (105) is not only not "cheap" it is actually considered perfectly acceptable racing-grade equipment. It is as good as anythign you can get in terms of pure function. Maybe just not finished as well, as lightweight or maybe a miniscule amount rougher in movement (probably not though).

    Both things they've told you are nonsense.

  18. #18
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    A derailleur needing a different RD cable adjustment for shifting up vs down sounds like either a bent hanger or friction due to something like poorly-installed cable housing. Neither should be acceptable on a new bike. This should not be your problem to figure out, and the shop telling you to let it wear in is BS. Keep after the shop until they fix it. A properly installed and adjusted 105 group should shift like butter.

  19. #19
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    This is 10s 105 with the external shift cables, right? They don't go under the tape?

    What's the quality of the cables like? Shimano's 10s gear is fussy.

    If you shoot a few pics, we might be able to spot something amiss.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_linux View Post
    I've been told by the mechanic in the shop, to ride for 250miles and then recheck everything. Things have to set themselves to each other.
    That's baloney. It's a line customers should hear pretty much only when mixing new parts with worn parts.

    A lot of mechanics fail to realise they can bed-in housing ferrules in the shop, and expect the customer to do it as they ride and put the bike out of adjustment, necessitating another visit... if the gear cables are pe-stressed, some settling will still occur, but an order of magnitude less; maybe a 1/4 turn's worth. Folks who know how to bed-in shifting systems may still tell you to give it a chance to settle in, but if so it's more CYA than anything.

    At any rate, a new bike should work perfectly straight off, perhaps needing some very slight adjustment after a week or two.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    This is 10s 105 with the external shift cables, right? They don't go under the tape?
    If its a new bike, it would be 5700 which is internally routed. Have the shop fix it. It should take the <5 min on a work stand.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Delmarva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_linux View Post
    Cassette is tight, I've been told by the mechanic in the shop, to ride for 250miles and then recheck everything. Things have to set themselves to each other.
    Go back and find the owner of that shop and tell him you want either your bike fixed, a replacement bike that works or a full refund. As everyone else has noted Shimano components should work perfectly from the first ride if set up correctly. There is no wearing in of components to make it shift correctly.
    Last edited by Delmarva; 06-25-14 at 03:55 PM.

  22. #22
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    What others have said. Last time I adjusted my RD I could get it close, but not perfect. Turns out the hanger was tweaked. My LBS had a tool to measure this and align it, took just a few minutes and now shifting is perfect and it is quiet.

  23. #23
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
    If its a new bike, it would be 5700 which is internally routed. Have the shop fix it. It should take the <5 min on a work stand.
    If it's 5700 it could be poorly-routed gear housing under the tape, which might explain why the shop doesn't want to know...

  24. #24
    Senior Member rydabent's Avatar
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    Take it back to the shop. If everything is new and tight, it should shift just fine with no noise. And yes maybe after 250 miles the shift cable may have to be adjusted for cable stretch and housing wear, but that is no big deal. Just turning the shift adj on the shifter or on the RD should take care of any small stretch and wear in.

    Chain noise because of poor adjustment is hard on the chain, and causes sprocket wear.

  25. #25
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    Ask the shop for a new bike cable tune and could they please check the derailleur hanger adjustment. Don't be demanding or a jerk about it. You might have to leave it with them for the day, depending on their work load. Expect that performance will drop off within the first couple hundred miles and then bring it back in for another quick, free cable tension adjustment.

    If the shop balks at this kind of service, find another shop and buy your next bike there.

    When they sold you the bike, what kind of service did they offer with the sale?

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