Rear Wheel Slipping In Dropout.
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Rear Wheel Slipping In Dropout.
I have one bike that has a problem with the rear wheel getting misaligned in the dropouts.
What will happen is I'll apply more torque on a bigger gear, and the chain pulls the driveside of the wheel forward. The tire then rubs against the NDS chainstay until I finally realize it's not the hill, headwind, or crap legs, something actually is wrong. I can stop this, but to do so I have to tighten the QR a lot. What is "a lot" - well, my wife probably wouldn't be able to close or open it. None of my other bikes have this issue.
The bike is a 1982 Peugeot PSV. It has semi horizontal dropouts with adjusters, the older type of QR with internal cams, and standard road gearing (dunno if that makes any difference). I haven't greased the dropouts or anything like that.
Any suggestions or fixes, besides just live with it? It's not really troubling but I am curious why this bike and only this bike is doing it.
What will happen is I'll apply more torque on a bigger gear, and the chain pulls the driveside of the wheel forward. The tire then rubs against the NDS chainstay until I finally realize it's not the hill, headwind, or crap legs, something actually is wrong. I can stop this, but to do so I have to tighten the QR a lot. What is "a lot" - well, my wife probably wouldn't be able to close or open it. None of my other bikes have this issue.
The bike is a 1982 Peugeot PSV. It has semi horizontal dropouts with adjusters, the older type of QR with internal cams, and standard road gearing (dunno if that makes any difference). I haven't greased the dropouts or anything like that.
Any suggestions or fixes, besides just live with it? It's not really troubling but I am curious why this bike and only this bike is doing it.
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If your rear axle sticks out past the frame’s dropout (particularly on the drive side), it’s possible that you’re primarily tightening the quick release end cap against the end of the axle rather than against the frame’s dropout, in which case, it’s not sufficiently clamping the frame’s dropout thus allowing any significant pedaling torque to cock the rear wheel.
The end of the axle should be flush or even slightly recessed with respect to the frame’s dropout to prevent the quick release end cap from tightening against the rear axle rather than as intended against the frame’s dropout.
My friend’s newly purchased rear wheel did exactly as you’ve described from brand new and the issue I described above was precisely the problem. After I repositioned the rear axle more toward the NDS via the axle’s locking nuts, then his new rear wheel held fine with normal quick release tightening pressure even when pedaling hard out of the saddle.
P.S. Some quick release end caps are recessed deeper than others which allows for a slight protrusion of the axle on the drive side and still permits proper tightening, but those quick release end caps which have little to no end cap recess will not permit the rear wheel to be remain locked in position after tightening the quick release due to the rear axle sticking out past the frame’s dropout. I hope you found this helpful.
The end of the axle should be flush or even slightly recessed with respect to the frame’s dropout to prevent the quick release end cap from tightening against the rear axle rather than as intended against the frame’s dropout.
My friend’s newly purchased rear wheel did exactly as you’ve described from brand new and the issue I described above was precisely the problem. After I repositioned the rear axle more toward the NDS via the axle’s locking nuts, then his new rear wheel held fine with normal quick release tightening pressure even when pedaling hard out of the saddle.
P.S. Some quick release end caps are recessed deeper than others which allows for a slight protrusion of the axle on the drive side and still permits proper tightening, but those quick release end caps which have little to no end cap recess will not permit the rear wheel to be remain locked in position after tightening the quick release due to the rear axle sticking out past the frame’s dropout. I hope you found this helpful.
Last edited by Gnosis; 07-01-14 at 09:21 PM.
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Thanks! I will check that.
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If the bike has an add-on derailleur hanger, the overhang on the DS axle end should be correspondingly longer than on the NDS axle end. Overhang is my term for the amount of exposed axle beyond the locknut.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Not all locknuts are created equal. You want ones with good and clear serrations, or some kind of contours to help with friction. I resurrected a pair once by dimpling the outside face with a center punch.
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