rgbiker

Hi guys, I'm a new guy here on the site, and I may be asking dumb questions.

My Raleigh Sprite was bought by me in the mid 1970's, not sure the exact year. It has a single chain wheel on the front and 5 gears on the back. The bike is in very good condition, but I would like to change the front chain wheel from the existing 46 teeth to maybe something around 36 teeth. This would allow me lower gearing for climbing hills, which I now find hard to do. The rear gears are 24,21,19,17 and 15.

The front chain wheel appears to be permanently attached to the right padal crank. Does this mean that the chain wheel cannot be changed/replaced??

Any ideas on how I can lower the gearing.

Thanks

JohnDThompson 

Yes, the crank on your bike does not have a removable chainring, so you'd need to replace the entire crank to get a smaller ring. Another option for lower gears would be a larger cluster in the back, but you'd need to get a new, longer chain and replace the rear derailleur with a long-arm unit to wrap the additional chain. Either option will involve a bit of effort and money. Replacing the rear cluster, chain, and derailleur is likely to be a little less expensive and less work overall, I suspect.

JOHNinIL

Nice looking Sprite, I've got the same bike. Made a couple swaps, but stock drive train. https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespee...l#post16870478

alcjphil

Nice bike, but it must be far too big for you if you have to have the saddle set that low. If the bike does indeed fit you properly, your saddle is much too low and set at an angle that would make even sitting on the bike awkward.
As for your crank, the chainring is not a separate piece and you would have great difficulty finding a cottered crank anyway. A larger freewheel with a 28 tooth large cog would help a great deal for climbing, the only other thing that you would have to change is the chain

prathmann

Looks like the old Huret Allvit derailleur. According to:
VeloBase.com - Component: Huret Allvit
these should accommodate cogs of up to 32 teeth. Changing to a freewheel with a large cog with 32 teeth would give you even lower gearing using your current 46t chain ring than you'd get with a 36t chain ring and your current freewheel. As mentioned above, the only other thing you'd need to change is the chain since it would need a few more links.

alcjphil

That is exactly the derailleur those Sprites were equipped with. Not exactly the smoothest shifting derailleur out there, especially when used with Huret shifters, but the darned things were bulletproof. All the pivot points could be adjusted and the jockey wheels featured adjustable ball bearings. The things could run forever.

garage sale GT

It looks like they still have 14-28t 5 speed freewheels. I seem to remember a 14-34t being available in a 5 speed at one point but I think they are gone.

Maybe Ebay would have a 13 or 14 to 32 freewheel.

You may also be able to change the chainring. You might have to go to a different crank which would necessitate a different bottom bracket. I am not sure if the Sprite came with standard or Raleigh bottom bracket threading. Raleigh changed over at some point. The C&V subforum here at bikeforums would be able to shed more light on that one.

JohnDThompson 

Freewheels, some even NOS, with tooth counts up to 32 or even 34 teeth are abundantly available on eBay.

rgbiker

Thank you everyone for your replys. Yes, my derailleur is a Huret Allvit. I think my best bet is to shop for a cassette on Ebay, that goes up to a 32 teeth.

Will any 5 speed cassette fit onto my Raleigh rear wheel, or do I have to match up with a certain thread/axle size etc. I have no experience with changing cassettes.

NormanF

A bike shop would best placed to advise on upgrades. I'd go to a 32 maybe 34 T rear cassette if available and in the front, get a 34 T chainring. If you cannot get one to fit your cottered crank, going cotterless is a good option.

Good luck on upgrading your Raleigh Sprite.

prathmann

Your Raleigh undoubtedly has a freewheel rather than a cassette. To remove it you need a freewheel removal tool and those tend to be specific for each make of freewheel so it's probably best to have a bike shop do the removal. Freewheels were available with English, French, and Italian threadings, but most (incl. Raleigh) were English so you shouldn't have a problem finding one that's compatible. Installation doesn't need any tool since you just hand tighten and the act of pedaling will tighten it further once you start riding.

rgbiker

Thanks prathmann, I'm starting to understand what I need to do now. I guess I used the wrong terminology. So its a freewheel that I need, not a cassette.
Cheers