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Salvagable rim? (pics)

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Old 07-20-14, 08:50 PM
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reg
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Salvagable rim? (pics)

got a miyata 610 that came with some really nice 27" wheels- suntour sealed bearing hubs- super smooth.

BUT

blew a flat on the tubes and tires it came with (super old dry rod), blew in the spot where it seems someone ground down the lip of the rim- about 3/4" inch was ground slightly out- still some lip but not much-

DO I toss em' or keep em?

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Old 07-20-14, 09:03 PM
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IF it's exactly opposite the valve, it's the weld.

AND your spokes are too short.
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Old 07-20-14, 09:12 PM
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Hard to tell from the picture but that looks ok. How does it spin in the stand? How does it ride? That's what I'd be concerned with. Structurally, regarding the material lost, it looks fine. Those look like pretty beefy rims.
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Old 07-20-14, 09:22 PM
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Looks a little rough but Ok to me as well if tires seat ok and they spin true decent I would ride these rims on vintage bike. Right know they are better than half the OEM rims sold on this era bike.
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Old 07-20-14, 09:31 PM
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I don't see what you think your problem is. Yes, there's some grinding on the rim at the joint, but that's perfectly normal. And Yes, the spokes are probably short of ideal and eventually you might see a nipple failure.

But these wheels have always been this way, and they've lasted so far, so what makes you believe there's any reason to think that they won't continue to be fine until they finally fail?

Ride them in good health.
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Old 07-20-14, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
IF it's exactly opposite the valve, it's the weld.
+1. There's remnants of the weld in the corners.
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Old 07-20-14, 09:45 PM
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Yes, I believe the spokes from the factory are too short- but the hubs are very smooth - ultegra like smooth.

Thanks for saving me to buy a new wheelset- how often does "save money" and C&V get to be in the same sentence?

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Old 07-20-14, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
IF it's exactly opposite the valve, it's the weld.

AND your spokes are too short.
Sorry, how did you know the spokes were too short? I couldn't clearly see them in the photos.

Thanks, Dick
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Old 07-20-14, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dicktill
Sorry, how did you know the spokes were too short? I couldn't clearly see them in the photos.

Thanks, Dick
Because you CAN'T see them clearly in the pic.
Click the pic again so it zooms
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Old 07-20-14, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Because you CAN'T see them clearly in the pic.
Click the pic again so it zooms
Sorry I'm so slow, but yes I have zoomed the photo, and yes I can't see the spokes 'cause they're out of focus or whatever. But are they really too short or are we having a joke here?
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Old 07-20-14, 10:25 PM
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The left nipple in the 1st pic shows lots of empty threads
.
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Old 07-20-14, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
The left nipple in the 1st pic shows lots of empty threads.
Ah, I get it now! Thank you Bill.

Regards, Dick
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Old 07-20-14, 11:02 PM
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Not a big deal if the spokes have thread on the niple enough to provide a half dozen turns so you can adjust tension either way.
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Old 07-21-14, 12:12 AM
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Yes, the spokes are too short, they should extend to very close to the tops of the nipple heads. As I posted earlier, this could ultimately lead to failure of a nipple. So you have a choice, fret over it now, and discard reasonably good wheels because they may break a nipple some time down the road, Or ride them down the road for weeks, months or years and deal with the "problem" if/when it arises.
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Old 07-21-14, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by zukahn1
Not a big deal if the spokes have thread on the niple enough to provide a half dozen turns so you can adjust tension either way.
It CAN be a big deal. Due to the design, and the different materials being used, the spoke/nipple interface doesn't comply with regular engineering rule-of-thumb for threaded fasteners. Spokes DO need to reach into the nipple head/flange for the nipple to reach full strength.
If it doesn't, it's quite common to have the nipple pull apart at the cylindrical section.
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Old 07-21-14, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dabac
It CAN be a big deal. Due to the design, and the different materials being used, the spoke/nipple interface doesn't comply with regular engineering rule-of-thumb for threaded fasteners. Spokes DO need to reach into the nipple head/flange for the nipple to reach full strength.
If it doesn't, it's quite common to have the nipple pull apart at the cylindrical section.
100% correct, but we should separate the theoretical and practical issues. The consequences of this aren't severe, being the same a s a broken spoke.

If the OP was considering buying these wheels, the short spokes would factor into the decision or price. But the OP already HAS these wheels and the question is whether he should trash or keep and ride them. Since the worst that can happen is that the OP might have to trash them later, there's no reason to accelerate the process and trash them now.
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Old 07-21-14, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
100% correct, but we should separate the theoretical and practical issues. The consequences of this aren't severe, being the same a s a broken spoke.
Yes, and the fewer the spokes, the more of a problem it is likely to be. Fortunately, the OP's wheel appears to have at least 32 spokes.
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