rms13

I have been battling the creaks since I bought this frame a few months ago and built it up. The frame is a used 2010 CAAD9 that I bought with a BB30 to 68mm bottom bracket adapter installed. Supposedly the adapter was factory installed by Cannondale according to the guy I bought the frame from. I installed my GXP bottom bracket and Sram Apex crank and I have constantly had a bad creak when pedaling under load/standing etc. I have removed and reinstalled the BB and Crank about 3-4 times. I'm using a BBT-9 bottom bracket tool. Last time I did it, I packed a lot more grease and I lightly tapped the BBT-9 with a mallet to make sure it was as tight as I could get it. That time I rode creak free for about 2 weeks but now it's back.

From my experience tightening the BB and crank getting rid of the noises for a while I'm sure that is where it's coming from (I've tried regreasing and tightening chainring bolts, pedals, stem, and basically anything with bolts as well).

At this point I'm at a loss. Can I/should I add some loctite to the BB? Could the creak be coming from the adapter at which point I'm SOL because it's a permanent installation? Should I stop worrying about it, ignore the noise and ride? Is my BB shell going to snap under pressure when I'm climbing a huge hill?

Andrew R Stewart 

BB adptr inserts can be a source of creaks as they "wear in" and loose their fit and prep coatings, if any was used. I'd be tempted to pull the adptr out and start from the empty shell. IME this is a periodic maintenance issue. Andy.

e_guevara

As per Cannondale's instruction on press-fit adapters on a BB30 frame, use Loctite 609 on the BB shell/adapter and the bearing seats on the adapter. Allow 24 hours to cure to full strength before installing the crank. Grease the inside face of the bearings and the crank spindle.

hueyhoolihan

what's a BB30 to 68mm bottom bracket adapter? like BB30 to a BSA (or English) threaded? if so, i can see how the whole thing could be a big PITA, as regards creaking.

patoot

Make sure you check your seat post. Creaks from a loose post travel through your tubes and can be mistaken for a loose Bb.

Also - this just happened to me- check you water bottle cage bolts. I nearly drove myself bonkers trying to find a mystery creak and Lo and behold my dang cages were the problem.

e_guevara

BB30 has a shell width of 68 mm with internal bearings. There is no "BB30 to 68 mm" because they're the same thing. OP is using a BB30 to BSA adapter in order to use a GXP BB and crank. GXP uses outboard bearings, essentially increasing the shell width to 86 mm.

rms13

Thanks for clarification. that is what I'm using...or rather what came pre installed in the frame when I got it.

From what I've read those adapters are meant to be permanent so I'm worried about trying to remove it without damaging the frame or I would do that and get BB30 cranks.

e_guevara

Nothing's ever "permanent" on a bike frame. It may be there for a very long time, but never permanent.

Most adapters are made out of Delrin, which is a tough plastic, but suffers from mechanical wear eventually. Loctite 609 is a mild adhesive/filler than can be tapped out if removal of the part is necessary. Use it to "lock" the adapter and bearings in place in order to minimize movement and wear.

Keep what you have for now (GXP). Going native BB30 is going to open up a new (but similar) can of worms.

rms13

Couple more questions for when I eventually take care of this issue.

1. What's the best adapter to use for my gxp cranks?

What is currently installed looks like this (not sure if this is the same model since it was in the frame when I bought it):

FSA Press-In Adaptor For BB30 > Components > Small and Service Parts | Jenson USA

I was thinking of buying a Wheels bottom bracket like this:

Wheels Mfg BB30 to Outboard Bottom Bracket for 24/22mm Cranks (SRAM/Truvativ)


2. What is the cheapest easiest way to get the existing adapter out? I don't have a headset press but I've seen cheap ones from $40-50 and wondering if that will work or getting a cheap bb and mallet as I've seen some people do on the internets.

Trying to gauge what is the most cost effective solution long term. Buying tools vs having LBS do it. Buying a new $75 bottom bracket/adapter vs buying new bb30 cranks

e_guevara

You'll hear a lot of good things about the Praxis conversion BB. The expanding collet sleeve presses against the BB shell when you tighten on it giving a creak-free fit. See Conversion BB (SRAM GXP/ISIS2) | Praxis Works

Press-fit adapters, both the FSA and Wheels Mfg., use Delrin cups/bushings. The press-fit solution is more tolerant of manufacturing imperfections on the BB30 system. However the Delrin bushings will eventually wear down due to use which makes it move around and creak again. Applying Loctite 609 on the shell and bearings during installation locks the them in place thus preventing movement.

Tapping the adapters out using a mallet and a piece of wood with a flat end has worked well for a lot of us. As I've said, the Delrin bushings are more tolerant of imperfections (including not-so-perfect installation jobs) provided you use Loctite. I would advise against just tapping the cups into the BB shell using a mallet. It can deform the cups if you don't hit it squarely (I doubt you can do that all throughout the process). You can build a simple headset press using an old wheel axle, some washers, and nuts. Go the DIY route if you're confident of your mechanic skills.

With *properly installed* adapters, any crank (GXP, Hollowtech II, BB30), will work just as well as any other. The problem in not in the crank.

There have been a lot of discussion on BB30/PF30 here before. Here's a recent one: Okay....so why is BB30 such crap?. The thread has been resurrected so I started you at the most recent discussion.

rms13

Thanks. I was actually looking at the Praxis after i posted that. I will probably ride it like it is for the rest of the season and then replace it

rms13

The creaks have been so bad the last couple of rides that I need to address it. Even if everything will perform fine as is, the noise is driving me crazy and effecting my riding experience.

I'm going to buy the Praxis adapter because everything I've read seems like it's the best option. I'd like to do the install myself. Hoping I can tap out the old adapter sleeve with the recommended wood/mallet diy. If I were to buy a proper install tool, would this work for installing the adapter?:

Park Tool Co. » BBT-30.3 : Bottom Bracket Tool Set for BB30 and PF30 : Bottom Bracket

https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/...NVBB-INSTR.pdf

rms13

Excuse my bump...but curious about the tool

operator

Wrong tool.

The adapter requires two, external bottom bracket tools, one on each side for the praxis bb30 -> 24mm adapter. This is the one you need/want.

Park Tool Co. » BBT-9 : Bottom Bracket Tool : Bottom Bracket

This exact information is also in the praxis installation PDF you posted. So you may want to RTFM.

rms13

Thanks. I own one BBT-9. I was actually refering to the press tool which I don't own, sorry if my post was confusing. Basically I'm trying to determine if it would be cheaper to let LBS do this work or do it myself considering I have to buy all the tools (minus one BBT-9) to remove the existing FSA sleeve adapter and install the Praxis. LBS estimated $50-70 for labor

e_guevara

The tool you originally posted (BBT-30.3) is used to remove the BB30 bearings only.

To remove the PF30 bearing cups, you will need a tool similar to the headset cup removal tool - basically a flared tube on one end, the BBT-90.3.



I've tapped out press-fit cups using a PVC pipe and a mallet without issue. You might want to reconsider the $70 installation charges.

rms13

OK thanks. BBT-90.3 is not too expensive. I've seen a couple of people use the bushings that come with it to make a diy press

https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/diy-bearing-cup-press-tool-$5-press-fit-bottom-bracket-pics-922442.html

But if pvc pipe and mallet works just as good I may give that a shot.

e_guevara

Use a 1/2" PVC pipe and gently tap around the the lip of the cup from the inside of the BB shell. Don't try to whack the cup out in one go if you plan on saving/reusing the cups.

Good luck.

gregjones

I think that I would tap out and reinstall the existing adaptor. It's three years old now and is just starting to show problems. If reinstalling it with loctite stops the creaks for the rest of the year I'd just count on it a part of an annual maintenance routine. No telling what bag of worms another style of adaptor might bring in another few years and it doesn't seem as if BB30 cranks are the answer.

JTGraphics

Ok I'm going to give you an odd one to look at but this is something I have discovered on a few BB30 BB's that I have been asked to look at.
I have seen the Cups and Adapters installed but that cable guide screw that holds in onto the frame sticks up inside the frame BB shell and touched the BB30 cups or the BB30 adapters.
Take a look inside and see if the screw is close or touching it!
I have fixed a few BB30 creaking BB's by fixing the clearance of that screw to the BB30 shell.

Also those plastic bearing cups need to be installed on the correct sides or it will touch the screw also I just fixed one like that.

rms13

Thanks JT. Definitely something else for me to look at.

rms13

True but if I end up pulling out the existing adapter I would prefer to just spend the money and get the Praxis even though it's $85. Seems like a better solution because of the fact that the two sides lock together. Seems like the only company that thought through a good solution on this