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Old 07-30-14, 10:52 PM   #1
Duane Behrens
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C&V Rear Wheel Source?

Need a supply source for a complete, new rear 700C wheel assembly, threaded to accept a freewheel hub. Thanks.
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Old 07-30-14, 11:17 PM   #2
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Any shop will have a couple of suppliers of cheap bike parts including wheels. There is nothing c and v about this type of wheel.

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Old 07-30-14, 11:49 PM   #3
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What would be more useful is to know the drop out spacing & number of cogs & desired width.

A lot of people like the Sun Rims CR-18 for a somewhat vintage look.
Or if you want skinny-
M13 II's
Amazon.com : Wheel Master 700c Road Rear Wheel - Sun M13 Rim, 36H, 5/6/7-Spd FW, QR, Silver : Bike Wheels : Sports & Outdoors

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 07-30-14 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 07-31-14, 06:46 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
What would be more useful is to know the drop out spacing & number of cogs & desired width.

A lot of people like the Sun Rims CR-18 for a somewhat vintage look.
Or if you want skinny-
M13 II's
Amazon.com : Wheel Master 700c Road Rear Wheel - Sun M13 Rim, 36H, 5/6/7-Spd FW, QR, Silver : Bike Wheels : Sports & Outdoors

Thank you, Bill. I can certainly take those measurements, but rather than take the chance of pluggin in the numbers and ordering on line, I was hoping to find an experienced supplier who could work through it briefly with me over the phone, then build and send me the wheel I need. I could try my LBS, but they're not so much into the older stuff. Which I do understand.

I found this guy - might be the one:

Peter White Cycles Home Page

Or perhaps someone else here knows of another source as well.

Best. Duane Behrens
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Old 07-31-14, 09:30 AM   #5
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Is there some compelling reason you don't want a free hub?

It'd be a lot easier to point you to a source if you gave the details of the wheel you need.

OTOH, you must have a lot of money to spend?
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Old 07-31-14, 09:52 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Duane Behrens View Post
Need a supply source for a complete, new rear 700C wheel assembly, threaded to accept a freewheel hub. Thanks.
I have a bunch of various qualities. Give more details and maybe I have something for you.
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Old 07-31-14, 10:15 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Duane Behrens View Post
Thank you, Bill. I can certainly take those measurements, but rather than take the chance of pluggin in the numbers and ordering on line, I was hoping to find an experienced supplier who could work through it briefly with me over the phone, then build and send me the wheel I need. I could try my LBS, but they're not so much into the older stuff. Which I do understand.

I found this guy - might be the one:

Peter White Cycles Home Page

Or perhaps someone else here knows of another source as well.

Best. Duane Behrens
Duane; measure BEFORE you talk to a wheel builder. Take a look on Sheldon Brown's site to see how. An experienced wheel builder like Peter can build a wheel in about the amount of time it takes to walk someone through the measurements. Are you willing to pay double for that?

Peter builds great wheels, and does not have much patience for people who have not read his site completely and who have not done their home work.

For 7 speed stuff, Peter has some 126mm OLD 32H Shimano HG freehub hubs that are very nice. You need 7 speed cassettes to go with them - Niagara Cycle has a nice selection. That would be better than almost any freewheel choice - except Phil Wood.
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Old 07-31-14, 12:15 PM   #8
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Duane, talk to FBinNY! He knows how to build quality wheels.
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Old 07-31-14, 12:20 PM   #9
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Location : Minnesota and Southern California
Calhoun's in MN will also custom build what combination of parts you desire .. and do the touch ups afterwards ..

ditto Most So Cal Pro Bike shops .
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Old 07-31-14, 12:36 PM   #10
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Here's a complete set so you can have matching rims for about the cost of parts-
Sun CR18 Road Bike Sealed Bearing 700c Wheelset 126mm Rear 36/32 [74438f front & 72385 rear] - $120.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
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Old 07-31-14, 12:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane Behrens View Post
Thank you, Bill. I can certainly take those measurements, but rather than take the chance of pluggin in the numbers and ordering on line, I was hoping to find an experienced supplier who could work through it briefly with me over the phone, then build and send me the wheel I need. I could try my LBS, but they're not so much into the older stuff. Which I do understand.

I found this guy - might be the one:

Peter White Cycles Home Page

Or perhaps someone else here knows of another source as well.

Best. Duane Behrens
It's really, really simple. All you need to provide is the number of rear cogs you want and the spacing between the dropouts (probably 126mm or 120mm, depending on the age of the bike). Beyond that, do you need to match a front rim or hub? That's all people need to know to make you some good suggestions. I would only get a custom wheel built if you need some specific vintage rim or hub used.
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Old 07-31-14, 06:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Is there some compelling reason you don't want a free hub?

It'd be a lot easier to point you to a source if you gave the details of the wheel you need.

OTOH, you must have a lot of money to spend?
No - I DO, in fact, want another threaded wheel and free hub sprocket assembly. Not sure where you got that, but maybe I mis-typed.

If it works out, I'd like to replace both front and rear wheels on the Super Course. The front wheel has a small dish, apparently where the seam is, and apparently caused by over grinding that seam. kachunk-kachunk-kachunk. It's better if the steering head is properly tightened and if the brake shoes are toed in a bit . . . but it never goes away, and it's annoying.

I've now replaced the calipers with new Ultegras. I had both wheels re-laced with stainless and brass. And after 3 or 4 rides, the rear wheel has gone wonky already. I'll take it back, but geez . . .

I'm getting tired of these (admittedly beautiful) Araya wheels . . .
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Old 07-31-14, 06:47 PM   #13
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I have a set like these from Velomine. They have been perfectly reliable and perform well. I'm 225 lbs.
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Old 07-31-14, 09:10 PM   #14
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no - i do, in fact, want another threaded wheel and free hub sprocket assembly. Not sure where you got that, but maybe i mis-typed. ........
huh?
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Old 07-31-14, 09:15 PM   #15
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No - I DO, in fact, want another threaded wheel and free hub sprocket assembly. Not sure where you got that, but maybe I mis-typed.
Which?

Do you mean a threaded hub with a spin-on freewheel? Ot do you want a freehub (ratchet mechanism is art of the hub) which takes a cassette?

It's one or the other, but not both in the same wheel.
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Old 07-31-14, 09:36 PM   #16
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Which?

Do you mean a threaded hub with a spin-on freewheel? Ot do you want a freehub (ratchet mechanism is art of the hub) which takes a cassette?

It's one or the other, but not both in the same wheel.
Sorry, guys. A "threaded hub with a spin-on freewheel" is what I want. I don't want a cassette. Thanks.
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Old 08-01-14, 03:11 AM   #17
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Sorry, guys. A "threaded hub with a spin-on freewheel" is what I want. I don't want a cassette. Thanks.

Somebody already asked you "why"? And, you never answered.

Which puzzles me.

You aren't against upgrading parts, the fact that you upgraded the brakes tells me that you aren't that worried about maintaining the "vintage" appearance. Freehubs and cassettes exist as an improvement to the threaded wheelhub and freewheel because the axle is supported by bearings located farther out on freehubs with cassettes. There are fewer axles failures (breaks and bending) on freehubs compared to thread hubs with freewheels (especially when considering 8-speed thread wheels and freewheels vs 8-speed freehubs and cassettes. And, the appearance of a freehub and cassette is just about the same as a threaded wheelhub and freewheel.

Did you ever take your relaced wheels back to the Builder for tuning after riding on them? New spokes need a break-in period, afterwhich the wheel needs to be trued/tuned, and the spokes should stabilize if they are quality parts, properly installed.
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Old 08-01-14, 06:04 AM   #18
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Somebody already asked you "why"? And, you never answered.

Which puzzles me.

You aren't against upgrading parts, the fact that you upgraded the brakes tells me that you aren't that worried about maintaining the "vintage" appearance. Freehubs and cassettes exist as an improvement to the threaded wheelhub and freewheel because the axle is supported by bearings located farther out on freehubs with cassettes. There are fewer axles failures (breaks and bending) on freehubs compared to thread hubs with freewheels (especially when considering 8-speed thread wheels and freewheels vs 8-speed freehubs and cassettes. And, the appearance of a freehub and cassette is just about the same as a threaded wheelhub and freewheel.

Did you ever take your relaced wheels back to the Builder for tuning after riding on them? New spokes need a break-in period, afterwhich the wheel needs to be trued/tuned, and the spokes should stabilize if they are quality parts, properly installed.
Hi. Changing over to Ultegra brakes was one of the ways I've been trying to cure the thumping in that front wheel. I couldn't get replacement pads for the originals, so this seemed the way to go. And with their brushed metal finish, the Ultegras were a near match aesthetically.

Unfortunately and while the brakes are very effective, it didn't stop the pulsing. The next step to try to cure it was to have the wheels re-laced with stainless steel spokes and brass nipples. I've got maybe a thousand miles on the re-built wheels. I will take your advice and return them for a first tune-up.

But the re-laced front wheel STILL pulses. Someone else here noted that it may be the result of the seam in that front wheel having been ground away a bit too much, causing a dip in the rim and creating the pulsing. That now makes sense. Which means that these OEM wheels may ALSO get removed and put away, just like the other OEM parts noted below.

I guess the reason I wanted to stay with the threaded hub and freewheel was to keep stuff interchangeable back there, and also to keep the bike SOMEWHAT period-correct. I agree that a more modern cassette would be an improvement . . . but it just sort of seems to cross a line, you know?

So far, I've carefully wrapped and placed each removed OEM component - brakes, brake hoods, sprocket assembly, FD and RD, etc. - into a box. There's a good chance the OEM wheels, with their new spokes and nipples - may join them.

And if I re-installed all those OEM parts tomorrow, I'd again have an original, possibly more valuable, but definitely less competent, Raleigh Super Course.

But this bike is just too much fun not to be ridden daily. Eh? Maybe I'll reconsider that whole freewheel vs. freehub/cassette thing. Thanks for your time and your learned response. DB
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Old 08-01-14, 08:48 AM   #19
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Off-topic, but jeez, this Peter White guy sure has some seriously spiffy stuff.
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Old 08-01-14, 09:56 AM   #20
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"Thumping" while braking is a RIM problem.

IF you are going to store the OEM wheels, then there's really no reason not to go to a cassette/freehub, unless you hav some very narrow drop out spacing.
Again, knowing the spacing and number of cogs........
If you have 130mm spacing and >7 cogs, things are simple.
Less on either, throws some other things into the equation.
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Old 08-01-14, 09:57 AM   #21
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"Thumping" while braking is a RIM problem.

IF you are going to store the OEM wheels, then there's really no reason not to go to a cassette/freehub, unless you have some very narrow drop out spacing.
Again, knowing the spacing and number of cogs........
If you have 130mm spacing and >7 cogs, things are simple.
Less on either, throws some other things into the equation.
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Old 08-07-14, 06:46 PM   #22
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"Thumping" while braking is a RIM problem.

IF you are going to store the OEM wheels, then there's really no reason not to go to a cassette/freehub, unless you hav some very narrow drop out spacing.
Again, knowing the spacing and number of cogs........
If you have 130mm spacing and >7 cogs, things are simple.
Less on either, throws some other things into the equation.
The original sprocket assembly is a 6-speed, 14 x 23 if I remember correctly. The dropout spacing is 126 mm. I tried a 7-speed; the chain doesn't clear the dropout in the small cog. Haven't played with washers or spacers yet. . . Yes, the brake pulsing is related to the machining of the seam, I understand that now. The Ultegras were installed because replacement pads for the DiaCompe (sp) weren't readily available. Thanks.
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Old 08-07-14, 09:53 PM   #23
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Buy a donor bike off craigslist. I don't know how many freeheel wheelsets I have lying around from bikes I bought and upgraded, keeping the old parts.
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Old 08-18-14, 09:51 PM   #24
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Bill, these look great. Thanks. I'll miss the appearance of the original Aryas. I'll post a pic before I hang them up so you'll know what I mean.

. . . but I need something that stops without trying to throw me over the handlebars once each revolution. :-)
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Old 08-18-14, 10:13 PM   #25
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I can't believe you paid to have your wheels relaced and didn't think of new rims!





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