Grease/oil on the frame--need recommendations
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Grease/oil on the frame--need recommendations
Some stubborn stains/marks are on my bike frame and Simple Green isn't cutting through it? Looking for recommendations for something a bit stronger to deal with the grease but not so strong that it damages the frame finish. What do you recommend?
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WD40, OMS, kerosene, turpentine all will work. One weird thing I found around the house that works is Orange Glo wood cleaner and polish. It's oily so dissolves the oil and grease.
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For grease that won't come off with simple green, I will put a little White Lightning clean streak degreaser on a rag, clean the grease spot, then wash it off with water.
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If the grease is a stain then the paint is already damaged. A stain is when the paint has absorbed some of the grease. Running one's finger over the area to feel for no residue standing proud of the paint should tell one if it's a stain or residue sticking to the outside of the paint.
There are many solvents (don't use lacquer thinner or enamel reducer) available for cutting grease based residue. I'd try WD40 first. The key to minimizing paint damage is not letting the solvent sit on the paint for any longer then needed.
I'm no painter so maybe one out there will chime in and talk about treating paint stains. Perhaps rubbing compound? Andy.
There are many solvents (don't use lacquer thinner or enamel reducer) available for cutting grease based residue. I'd try WD40 first. The key to minimizing paint damage is not letting the solvent sit on the paint for any longer then needed.
I'm no painter so maybe one out there will chime in and talk about treating paint stains. Perhaps rubbing compound? Andy.
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The only finishes that I've ever found to need more than a simple wipe with just about any kind of soap & water or cleaner are mat finishes. These have gotten fairly popular but can be a royal PITA. The surface is etched which gives the mat look, but just about any kind of oil or even soap film gets into the texture and makes a shiny spot. It's the same effect as how ground glass turns clear when wet.
You have to get these finishes truly clean and dry to lose the shiny areas and on a bike that can be nearly impossible (it's even worse with cars).
You have to get these finishes truly clean and dry to lose the shiny areas and on a bike that can be nearly impossible (it's even worse with cars).
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Try some solvents first, wd40,mineral spirits,ect.
Like he said above,don't try lacquer thinner or reducer....It will take off the grease... and paint.
This is the order I use on cars.......If it's 1-2 part enamel you can try deglazing compound (real fine).....buffing compound (fine) There are a couple different grit buffing compounds,make sure you get fine......followed by polish.......or worse comes to worse wet sand it out starting with 1000 grit,1500,2000,then polish.
Have to be careful on tubes,you can cut thru the clearcoat or paint real fast.
Like he said above,don't try lacquer thinner or reducer....It will take off the grease... and paint.
This is the order I use on cars.......If it's 1-2 part enamel you can try deglazing compound (real fine).....buffing compound (fine) There are a couple different grit buffing compounds,make sure you get fine......followed by polish.......or worse comes to worse wet sand it out starting with 1000 grit,1500,2000,then polish.
Have to be careful on tubes,you can cut thru the clearcoat or paint real fast.
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So the problem was a layer on top of the paint? Andy.
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I have a bike painted with matte (not mat) yellow urethane auto paint. I wax it and it makes it easier to live with. I use Formula 409 to remove any marks and then rewax.