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Questions regarding front wheel, brake, and tread alignment

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Questions regarding front wheel, brake, and tread alignment

Old 08-12-14, 09:25 PM
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Questions regarding front wheel, brake, and tread alignment

So I recently acquired a bike from a friend for free. It's a lynx mountain bike that had been sitting in his basement for an undetermined amount of time. I've been doing a lot of work on the bike lately to make it more comfortable and safer. I changed out the grips and seat for comfort, updated to touring tires (with brand new tubes), and got a new front v brake assembly because the front brake was missing one of the pads. I'm very new to bike mechanics, so I have some specific questions, as well as being open to any advice someone might have for a newbie.
  1. Front wheel out of alignment
    When I first got the bike, the wheel was actually loose and kept rubbing against the left fork. Applying my brakes or physically moving it back to center would fix this temporarily on my first ride, and when I got it home I tightened the bolt and it stopped the issue where it was rubbing against the fork. When I tried to fix the brakes, I noticed an issue with the wheel being more to the left than it should be. I figured it was the rim that was off, and since it was a hand-me-down bike, I decided it would just be safest to change out the front rim. However with the new rim, I am still seeing the same problem. Can I fix this, or is this something I will need to take it to a shop for? And if it is something I can do myself, how do I go about it?
  2. Not sure which way the bike treads should be facing
    I got these new touring tires, however they don't seem to have any indication of which way the treads should be facing. I've found other places online that say they should be going opposite directions, so that's how I have them right now. Is this correct?
  3. Front brake seems to be further away from one side of wheel than other
    The design of the brake cables that came on the bike is that one cable comes down the fork, and there is a bracket of sorts over which a single cable runs and connects to both brake pads. I'm not exactly sure how to adjust it so that only one side moves closer to the rim, although that problem might be caused by the wheel/fork issue I mentioned earlier.
  4. Left pedal crank keeps coming loose
    My left pedal crank keeps coming loose after riding about five to ten miles or so. It first came loose a few miles after I was in a small accident, so I mostly blame that. However I've tried tightening the bolt and it seems to still come loose. Is it just that I'm not applying enough torque to get it to stay, or could it be a larger problem somewhere. The right crank seems just fine.

Thanks for any help anyone may offer, and as I said, I'd also be glad to hear any general tips on bike maintenance that anyone might have to offer a real newbie.
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Old 08-12-14, 09:51 PM
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Detroit has at least two successful bike co-ops. These offer mechanic classes, and/or work areas with tools where you can work on your own bike with advice from an experienced mechanic.

Cost is low, and sometimes can be paid in sweat equity.

They'd be the place for answers to the question, especially getting the front wheel, brake and fork working right. Plus, co-ops are one of the best ways for newbs to learn about bike repair.

Check out either back Alley bikes, or Red Planet.
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Old 08-12-14, 09:52 PM
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First thing to do is to provide more detail about the make and model of the bike. It isn't a state secret and shouldn't be treated as such. Without this vital information providing answers to your question is very difficult
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Old 08-12-14, 09:57 PM
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Look here, and here.

You should be able to find out what you have going-on and understand what you need to do to correct it.
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Old 08-12-14, 10:30 PM
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1- Wheel servicing should start from the center. This is the axle and it's fitting within the bearings. No slop and free spinning. Only then can the rim be looked at with assurance of only the rim issues being present. Like is the rim off center (out of dish) or is it not true (either side to side or radially). Once the wheel is determined to be in good shape then how it's secured and located in the drop outs is next. A good wheel can look off center if the axle is not fully up in the drop out slots or be sloppy loose if the axle nuts/QR skewer is not tightened fully. If all these possibilities are good then the fork's alignment or headset adjustment needs attention. Without a solid foundation as to how to go through the logic steps or the skills to fix those that are wrong it might be faster and easier to let a shop handle things. But these abilities are not hard to learn, just that for some the learning process has more road blocks then others.

2- Unless the bike is being ridden on soft and deformable surfaces the tread directions have VERY little effect. It's not like a car with a need to vent off water. If the bike does see soft surface use AND if the tires don't have a directional arrow then just try the tires each way and make up your mind.

3- Yes, the wheel first needs to be centered within the fork. Then the brake arms, the pad position on the arms and the arm springs all need to be first set as symmetrically as possible, side to side. From this base line pad position on the arms or spring tensions can be played with. The cross 9straddle) cable also usually needs to be symmetrical in it's lengths from the center cable connection to each arm. The arms need to pivot freely on their posts with neither binding more then the other.

4- The left crank arm likely has a tapered square hole that fits on to a matching tapered square axle end. When the tow tapers don't perfectly mate the arm will never stay tight. The axle is usually made of a hardened steel. The arm usually a softer material. if the arm is allowed to come loose just once and then ridden this way the hard axle will wallow out the arm's tapered hole. Now the two won't fit well together and the arm will always come loose. The repair is to replace the arm with an undamaged one and after initial rides re torque it's retaining bolt. this will cause the arm to draw up on the taper a bit more compensating for the slight molding the arm's hole goes through with the first use. Sometimes a second re tightening is needed a few more rides later. The arm should be mounted on a dry and clean axle, the retaining bolt's threads greased.

There are many on line guides for these issues. Andy.
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Old 08-12-14, 11:11 PM
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Left crank has to be replaced. Brake preload screws need to be adjusted so spring force is equal on both sides. Front wheel problem could be lots of things. Go to the coop. They'll have a used crank arm for cheap, like $5-10.
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