RoadTire 

Shifters are Shimano 5600 105's. Brakes are Crane Creek (stock on 2009/2010 Pilot 2.1) but I do not know the exact model #.

I am a little uncomfortable with the distance of my 105 5600 finger stretch when shifting to the larger cogs. I sometimes pull back on the levers as I'm trying to get enough leverage to shift. There may not be a solution, other than electronic shifting, but it's a bike, which by definition requires obsessive searching for solutions looking for a problem to solve.

Here is the conundrum I'm not getting my head around: Shimming the lever would pull the brakes close to the rim, but I'm using 27 mm (measured) tires, which just barely let me remomve the wheel when the brake quick release is opened. I think this means I cannot move the brakes closer to the rim under any circumstances.

Some questions come to mind: Are there 3rd party quick release gizmos for my brake cables so that I can open the brakes more to remove the wheel? That would allow me to go to 28 mm tires. Use wider rims? (not very cost effective, as my rims are ok, and I don't foresee better wheels being an improvement considering my ... level of fitness and style) Is SRAM Double Tap going to solve this? Or, heaven forbid, just strengthen my grip with 5 dollar grip exerciser-thingies?

Maybe just buy a Domane for a more comfortable ride on 25 mm tires? (And forgo owing a car for a couple years just to pay for it. Now there's a pipe dream)

fietsbob

Plastic wedges stuff into the top of the STI lever gap so they dont open as far.



often new bikes have them in the shipping carton, ask the LBS if they saved any..

you readjust the brakes after installing the Shim, Of Course.

Cane Creek has another brake lever entirely, (no internal shifter) to replace the too far to reach ones ,
the lower lever shape comes back further..

ThermionicScott 

I'm using 30mm tires with short-reach calipers, so it's a similar deal. I typically undo the QR then let out the barrel adjuster a couple turns to remove/install wheels.

Of course, the whole process is easier when removing a wheel to fix a flat.

RoadTire 

fietsbob: shims: If it is really that simple, I might not have as much leverage on the brakes because of (I'm going to state this badly) the leverage or length of cable being pulled is lessened. Getting better brake pads might solve that - koolstops or whatever.


Ummmm...deflating my tire to simulate a flat doesn't ring my bell. Just sayin....

fietsbob

Leverage is unchanged .. Since it is the length Ratio of the distances on either side of the pivot ..

you just are starting the Motion sweep a little further along ..

note the Shimano lever is assuming the QR in the Brake caliper .

you may have to buy either the lever with the QR in it or another brake caliper set if the ones used lack the QR lever on them. .

Did they put a QR lever in the Dia Compe/Cane Creek Brake calipers ? (IDK link/picture missing)

RoadTire 

Right-starting the motion sweet a little farther along and running out of sweep was what I was thinking. Guess not, eh? I'll ping a couple LBS tomorrow and see if they have some shims sitting around for little or nothing to try. Also I might undo the barrel adjusters if I have to but prefer not to - I carry the bike in my car so removing the frequently.

fietsbob

interrupting the brake housing with an inline adjuster can increase the slack you can create .. to let your pads open further . too

bikepro

Yes, SRAM does have adjustable reach; however, it will require changing not only the shifters but the front and rear der as well.

RoadTire 

Ha! Thanks to that comment - changed my search and this:

Shimano Dura Ace CB90 In-line Brake Cable Adjuster. Is that the cats meow or what?



Shimano Dura Ace CB90 In-line Brake Cable Adjuster from Bike Bling

reptilezs

i was going to recommend this

RoadTire 

But that was darned kind of you to let me work it out myself.


Still, I'm interested to see what other possible solutions or answers anyone comes up with.