nayr497

I've tried to dig up an answer to my question/solution to my problem, but haven't found one. I have read Lennard Zinn's article on this, but not sure about my particular situation. And it looks as if 11-s works okay due to the spacing, but I'm on 10s.

I'm trying to use a 10s Campagnolo cassette/wheel with a SRAM drivetrain. (backup, modest wheelset, don't feel like paying what it would cost for the Shimano/SRAM freehub body for this wheel. Too much for an older/backup wheelset).

chain: Shimano 10s
RD: SRAM Force 10s medium cage
Shifters: 2012 SRAM Red

I can just put the wheel on and ride it around, of course. Thought I'd see if anyone knows or has tried this. All parts are in good working order.

Any ideas? Thanks!

gfk_velo

Make sure the rear hanger is tight to the frame then get the rear gear hanger checked and ensure it is straight and if it has been straightened before, make sure that there is no sign of anything that even hints of cracking. Don't assume a new hanger will be straight, often they are not and in any case, even if it is a good quality CNC'd hanger which are straight "out of the box", the bed it sits on in the frame may not be ...

Make sure the RD is set up correctly in terms of high and low limit screw settings. These may not be the same as for a Shimano cassette rear wheel, for instance - set the high adjuster without the RD cable attached so that you know the only thing limiting the RD movement is the limit screw, not any cable tension.

Set the gear up as if you were setting up Shimano.

Go back to sprocket 5 in the middle of the cassette and tweak that RD position using cable tension so that the top jockey is perfectly vertically aligned under the sprocket.

Check the shift up and down.

This will average out the slight differences in sprocket spacing between Campagnolo's system and Shimano's. It'll never be perfect (you need an all-Shimano or all-Campagnolo, or even an all-SRAM system for that) but it will be serviceable.

HTH
Graeme
Campagnolo main SC, UK.

shelbyfv

This is good to know, thanks!!

nayr497

Thanks for the helpful reply, gfk. I'll give it a shot.

I've never actually got this bike to shift as nicely as I'd like. It's all new SRAM parts and still it varies between shifting okay and shifting poorly. The shift lever gets harder and harder as I send the chain inwards on the cassette. I've tried to fine tune it, sometimes it'll work better, but eventually I'm back to really having to shove the lever hard to get the chain into the innermost cogs. I don't know if it's my set up/my tuning job or this is just how SRAM is. I'm leaning towards the latter, as a pal got a brand new cross bike with a full Red setup last year and I jumped on it to see how it went and his shifting was similarly stiff.

On the other hand, I have two different 105 drivetrains and three different Campagnolo drivetrains and they always shifting properly and smoothly.

achoo

If that doesn't work to your satisfaction, and you don't want to give up on the wheelset, you might be able to figure out which Fulcrum freehub (and maybe axle) will work in your hub. IIRC a Fulcrum 7 axle and freehub work in a Khamsin wheel.

nayr497

This is actually a Neuvation wheel with a Campa freehub body. They want $75 for the freehub for Shimano/SRAM. I'm not willing to pay that, considering I think I paid $125 for the wheel four years ago.

Canker

Jtek ShiftMate