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Need to release loctite!

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Old 08-20-14, 08:48 PM
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Need to release loctite!

I applied loctite blue to a bottom bracket thread - non drive side, Left - I was not able to get the left ring seated before the lactate set and need to undo the loctite. Can anyone advise how to do it?
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Old 08-20-14, 08:50 PM
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Blue loctite releases under mechanical force.
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Old 08-20-14, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Blue loctite releases under mechanical force.
+1 The Blue formulation (242) is weak enough to break free with just hand tools. BTW, Loctite takes several minutes to begin to harden and about 24 hours to reach full strength. How much time did you wait before trying to adjust the bottom bracket?
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Old 08-20-14, 09:30 PM
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Metal parts? Apply heat.
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Old 08-20-14, 10:46 PM
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Yes heat but the blue 242 will break free if you can apply enough force to the part.
Also as Hillrider mentioned it take some time to set are you sure it's not cross threaded?
BB threads are very fine and if not careful can be cross threaded quite easily.

I might add I have never needed to use Loctite on a BB.
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Old 08-20-14, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ofgit
Metal parts? Apply heat.
Nope.
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Old 08-20-14, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JTGraphics
Yes heat
Double nope.
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Old 08-20-14, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
Double nope.
Blue 242 should release using your tools you installed it with.
But heat is used to release Loctite like the Red heat does soften it and will release quite easily but that kind of heat can not be applied to painted surface or plastic.
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Old 08-20-14, 11:00 PM
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Generally, plastic/fiber parts threaded into metal do not require a thread locker.
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Old 08-20-14, 11:04 PM
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The OP used blue loctite... the application of heat is not required.
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Old 08-21-14, 07:33 AM
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If you really soaked it in locktite you might have a problem. Try dripping Acetone in at the joint.




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Old 08-21-14, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyIII
I applied loctite blue to a bottom bracket thread - non drive side, Left - I was not able to get the left ring seated before the lactate set and need to undo the loctite. Can anyone advise how to do it?
OT, can I just point out that "Loctite" seems to autocorrect to "lactate".

On topic, I never met a set of threads with blue Loctite on them that I couldn't break free with hand tools. How much did you apply, OP?
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Old 08-21-14, 10:36 AM
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Not sure I understand the heat required/not required rationale as though there is no middle ground. Application of heat will make disassembly easier (note the degree, not either/or). Consider that a BB shell is larger than the range of recommended diameters for blue Loctite.

Blue threadlocker loses strength at temperatures attainable with a hair dryer -- well before paint damage. Apply heat to the shell and soak it thoroughly to ease BB removal.
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Old 08-21-14, 11:12 AM
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And just use grease next time!
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Old 08-21-14, 11:42 AM
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Roy; the problem is cross threading, not the loctite.

Now if you had used Red Loctite; you'd need a torch to soften it enough to remove.

The durability of well done powder coat. At my last company, we had to rework a bunch of product, which used red Loctite 271 on the fastener threads. The fasteners went through a powder coated aluminum extrusion into sheet steel brackets. We had to use MAPP gas (yellow cylinder) torches to get enough heat in there for the 271 to soften enough to remove the fasteners. The flame was directly on the powder coated aluminum (flame front was bigger than the screw head). There was no damage whatsoever to the powder coat after a 90 seconds of direct flame.
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Old 08-21-14, 11:49 AM
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With blue Locktite the part should back out as easily as it went in.
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Old 08-21-14, 12:24 PM
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Loctite sells a release agent,called XNMS.....Smells like nitromethane (model airplane fuel)...Ain't cheap.....$33 for a 1.75oz bottle......Or if you happen to have a barrel of nitro lying around for your top fuel ride...

You can try MEK,acetone.........

Permatex Gasket Remover works....used to be recommended by them at one point.I don't remember if it's paint friendly or not,so be careful with that.

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Old 08-21-14, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Booger1
Loctite sells a release agent,called XNMS.....Smells like nitromethane (model airplane fuel)...Ain't cheap.....$33 for a 1.75oz bottle......Or if you happen to have a barrel of nitro lying around for your top fuel ride...

You can try MEK,acetone.........

Permatex Gasket Remover works....used to be recommended by them at one point.I don't remember if it's paint friendly or not,so be careful with that.
I will need to experiment with that and see if it does work. I have a few gallons of 100% Nitro_methane going to use some nuts and bolts of different sizes with Red 271 and see if it releases it.
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Old 08-21-14, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Al1943
With blue Locktite the part should back out as easily as it went in.
So if I put a nut on a bolt finger tight with blue threadlocker, the nut will just spin off after the threadlocker cures? Please advise.

"Should" is a very funny word.
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Old 08-21-14, 02:12 PM
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From the Blue Loctite 242 technical data sheet:

In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482ºF (250ºC). Dissasemble while hot.
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Old 08-21-14, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork
Not sure I understand the heat required/not required rationale as though there is no middle ground. Application of heat will make disassembly easier (note the degree, not either/or). Consider that a BB shell is larger than the range of recommended diameters for blue Loctite.

Blue threadlocker loses strength at temperatures attainable with a hair dryer -- well before paint damage. Apply heat to the shell and soak it thoroughly to ease BB removal.
This. Apply a hair dryer directly to it for a couple of minutes and it will break fairly easily.
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Old 08-21-14, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork
So if I put a nut on a bolt finger tight with blue threadlocker, the nut will just spin off after the threadlocker cures? Please advise.
Yes, if it spun itself on then it can also spin itself back off.
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Old 08-21-14, 03:09 PM
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Something tells me that this thread wouldn't exist if the OP could just "spin the cup back off."
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Old 08-21-14, 03:24 PM
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Force worked! Pretty much. Except the left ring got stripped to the point where I could not use the tool. Soft aluminum. I sawed it out w/o hurting the threads. This was a Stronglight bottom bracket. Neither strong nor light. Luckily I have a shimano bb that works as a replacement - it's a better bb. Thanks for the advice. I'll be more careful next time.
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Old 08-21-14, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyIII
Force worked! Pretty much. Except the left ring got stripped to the point where I could not use the tool. Soft aluminum. I sawed it out w/o hurting the threads. This was a Stronglight bottom bracket. Neither strong nor light. Luckily I have a shimano bb that works as a replacement - it's a better bb. Thanks for the advice. I'll be more careful next time.
if by be careful
you mean never again use loctite on a bottom bracket
then you are good to go

the only time i can think of that someone might resort to loctite on a bb
is with an italian threaded bb
which would have a right handed thread on the drive side cup
but even italian bbs will stay in place if properly torqued
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