Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Brake and Shifter Cable question How Much?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Brake and Shifter Cable question How Much?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-29-14, 02:12 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Brake and Shifter Cable question How Much?

I have a 27" Schwinn contintental. 27" tires. Handlebars are up high.

Never replaced the cables on a this large of a bike. I was going to get a jagwire kit off ebay.

How much length or rather, what do I need to buy, to do my brakes and my shifter cable... both cable and housing?

Thanks, first timer here.
73conti is offline  
Old 08-29-14, 02:30 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
That is a big bike.

1. Brake and shift inner wires generally come in 1,700 mm or 2,000 mm lengths. That should be long enough to fit your bike. One end has a fitting. Derailleur cable ends are all but standardized but there's two common brake cable ends. Be sure to get the one that fits your brake levers. FWIW, I buy galvanized cables because I can solder the cut ends easily and not have to mess with end crimps.

2. On a bike that old you won't have index shifting. That means you can use brake housing for your shifters. I'd guess that 6' would be plenty for everything but it only costs around a dollar per foot so I'd buy a little more to be sure.

3. Your shift cables will be too long so you'll have to cut them. If you solder them like I do, you can do the soldering first and then cut through the solder with whatever tool you have handy. That way you'll get no fraying. If you own a Dremel, that's the tool I'd use for cutting the housing.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 08-29-14, 02:36 PM
  #3  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
order Tandem lengths
fietsbob is offline  
Old 08-29-14, 03:50 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I was going to buy this kit that had the following:
One cable kit comes with 1 long piece of low compression (coiled) brake housing at 2.4 meters/94.5 inches in length, 1 long piece of compressionless (wired) shifter housing at 1.9 meters/74.5 inches in length. 2 galvanized steel brake cables, 2 galvanized steel shifter cables and Crimps, ferrules donuts.


Specifications:
1pc Brake cable housing : 5mm CGX,w/ plastic inner sleeve for smoother braking, Jagwire logo, Aprox. 2.4 meters (94.5 inches)
2pc Brake cable : 1.5mm Galvandized (1x19strains) Pre stretched double headed with 7x6mm mountain bike , 6x11mm road bike, Front length-1100mm, Rear length-1700mm
1pc shifter cable housing : 4mm LEX w/ plastic inner sleeve for smoother shifting, Jagwire logo, Aprox. 1.9 meters (74.5 inches)
2pc shifter cable : 1.2mm Galvandized (1x19strains) Pre stretched 4.3x4.4mm shimano/sram Front legnth- 2000mm, Rear length-2000mm
But since I can use brake cable for the shifter like Retro metioned, perhaps its not a smart buy?

Are the lengths above enough for my tall man bike?
Are the shifter cable above compatible with my old bike?

Last edited by 73conti; 08-29-14 at 03:59 PM.
73conti is offline  
Old 08-29-14, 03:59 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
gregjones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 2,828

Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by 73conti
But since I can use brake cable for the shifter like Retro metioned, perhaps its not a smart buy?
He said HOUSING.

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
That means you can use brake housing for your shifters.
gregjones is offline  
Old 08-29-14, 04:06 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That shows how much I know... figured the housing was the same.
73conti is offline  
Old 08-29-14, 08:17 PM
  #7  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,777

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,395 Times in 1,929 Posts
Originally Posted by 73conti
That shows how much I know... figured the housing was the same.
For a 1973 Schwinn Continental the housing is the same for both brakes and shifters. It wasn't until indexed shifting took off in the mid 1980s that special compressionless housing for shift cables became necessary.

BTW, if you have the original equipment Schwinn shift levers, make sure your replacement cables have the necessary disc end rather than the currently common barrel end.

JohnDThompson is online now  
Old 08-29-14, 08:24 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,663

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson

BTW, if you have the original equipment Schwinn shift levers, make sure your replacement cables have the necessary disc end rather than the currently common barrel end....
+1, Schwinns of that era used Huret derailleurs and levers. These took a (now defunct) disc cable end, and it won't come on a modern gear wire. Take the outer covers off the lever and confirm the cable head before buying anything. If you have a disc head pictured in the post above , search for "Huret" gear wire.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 05:20 AM
  #9  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
thanks, I will check the shift cable for the proper end before ordering. Just to confirm though, as for the brakes, a modern cable will work?

The shifting cables still work fine on the bike its the brakes I need to tend to. I was going to get new pads as well.. kool stops as everyone suggests for steel rims however, I just realized the rims are upgrades to aluminum so I am not sure if that's still what I need to use.

So the kit then I described above is not compatible?

What I need is 7' of cable housing (can be the same for the shifter) and then enough brake cable and shifter cable (perhaps huret?)

You might be able to tell I am a little overwhelmed by what I need to purchase.... I was going to simply get them on ebay.
73conti is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 06:08 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,663

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
Yes, the brake cable is almost surely the same as a modern pear shaped (road type) end. If the gear wires are OK, you can put off that for the moment, and focus on the brakes

The shoe recommendation is the same and will work even better on aluminum than steel.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 10:35 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times in 83 Posts
Originally Posted by 73conti
. . . How much length or rather, what do I need to buy, to do my brakes and my shifter cable... both cable and housing? . . .
Measure what you have?
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 11:00 AM
  #12  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks John for mentioning the "Huret" cable. Indeed that is what I have on my shifter.

Heres a good question, a long span of shifter cable is exposed down the center tube of the frame... it does have housing covering it. I remember as a kid bikes that were similar.

When I replace the cable, should I be just using cable housing or do I have to cut and expose portions of the cable to work correctly?

Hope that makes sense without pictures.
73conti is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 11:07 AM
  #13  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,777

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,395 Times in 1,929 Posts
Originally Posted by 73conti
Heres a good question, a long span of shifter cable is exposed down the center tube of the frame... it does have housing covering it. I remember as a kid bikes that were similar.

When I replace the cable, should I be just using cable housing or do I have to cut and expose portions of the cable to work correctly?
It can work either way, but long runs of housed cable have more friction than bare cable and thus may have poorer shifting performance. Best performance is obtained by using only enough housing to guide the cables around corners, while leaving it bare elsewhere.
JohnDThompson is online now  
Old 08-30-14, 11:27 AM
  #14  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Alright, things are making more sense.

Another question. Huret cable. I can buy NOS on ebay. Is that cable compatible with modern housing? For example if I buy jagwire brake cable and housing... can I use the housing on the Huret?
73conti is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 11:32 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,663

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
Originally Posted by 73conti
Alright, things are making more sense.

Another question. Huret cable. I can buy NOS on ebay. Is that cable compatible with modern housing? For example if I buy jagwire brake cable and housing... can I use the housing on the Huret?
The older gear wires were thicker than modern ones, and so may not work with modern gear housing. However, they're thinner than modern brake wire and so will work very well in modern brake housing. One more reason to save by not buying costlier gear housing.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 11:45 AM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
gregjones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 2,828

Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by 73conti
You might be able to tell I am a little overwhelmed by what I need to purchase.... I was going to simply get them on ebay.
Take a look here. That's housing by the foot. It's a bit cheaper, per foot, to buy a longer length of it. 25' for 15 bucks and you can use it for shifters too.

I use these folks quite a bit for cables, tools and things like that. Great service, fast to ship.
gregjones is offline  
Old 08-30-14, 01:38 PM
  #17  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
in regards to the Huret cable.

Theres a few NOS on ebay, and I am not sure which one I need and if they differ: See the following (I hope its kosher to post links like this, I apologize if it is not...im not a spammer just need the right stuff!!)

NOS
Huret Gear Derailleur Cable Wire for Vintage Road Racing Bike 50 inches Long | eBay

THIS APPEARS NEW
Jagwire Basics Galvanized Derailleur Wire 1 2x2300mm Shimano Huret Simplex | eBay

ANOTHER NOS
Lonquer 1M 25 Ejac Road Bike Bicycle Inner Cable Schwinn Raleigh Simplex Huret | eBay

Anyway, if anyone has a moment to take a look for me and let me know what I should be leaning towards in regards to HURET CABLE.
73conti is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 05:12 AM
  #18  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi again, im just giving this a bump in hopes of being steared in the right direction in regards to HURET cable that I need for my shifter (Schwinn contintental)... im sure itching to order, install and get back out on the road!
73conti is offline  
Old 08-31-14, 09:50 AM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,663

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times in 1,404 Posts
Originally Posted by 73conti
Hi again, im just giving this a bump in hopes of being steared in the right direction in regards to HURET cable that I need for my shifter (Schwinn contintental)... im sure itching to order, install and get back out on the road!
All three have the correct head, so the key i length and price. Both NOS wires are about the same length 1250mm or 50" which is fine for downtube levers, but not enough for levers mounted to the stem or handlebar.

So the JagWire one's 2300mm wire wins out by a metre.

Howevr it's a doube ended wire, which means you'll need a decent pair of wire cutters to cut one head of without fraying the wire. If you don't have a sharp pair of diagonal cutters, buy a pair of bicycle cable cutters, which should cost you less than $20.

BTW= plan ahead and buy 3 of these wires, 2 for the bike and a spare in case you mess up.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 09-11-14, 01:03 PM
  #20  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just wanted to say thanks for the tips... esp. bringing HURET cable to my attention. I would have purchased the wrong stuff and would have had to deal with repackaging and returning via the mail if it wasn't for that advice.

I have new brake cables, brake pad and shifter cable on my bicycle now ..... even took off the kickstand... ready to roll now!
73conti is offline  
Old 09-11-14, 03:30 PM
  #21  
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,498

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7345 Post(s)
Liked 2,452 Times in 1,430 Posts
I have filed down cable ends to make them fit those shifters. It was a b-itch to do, but it worked.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gauvins
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
10
04-09-16 01:48 PM
1987
Classic & Vintage
45
09-02-14 05:00 PM
filthyfingers
Bicycle Mechanics
14
04-17-13 06:43 PM
tony_merlino
Bicycle Mechanics
6
10-17-11 10:35 PM
chico1st
Classic & Vintage
9
12-25-09 09:49 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.