Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

One spoke (only) keeps coming loose

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

One spoke (only) keeps coming loose

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-01-14, 09:36 AM
  #1  
your god hates me
Thread Starter
 
Bob Ross's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,592

Bikes: 2016 Richard Sachs, 2010 Carl Strong, 2006 Cannondale Synapse

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1252 Post(s)
Liked 1,281 Times in 708 Posts
One spoke (only) keeps coming loose

There is one spoke -- and only one spoke -- on my rear wheel that has started coming loose after only a handful of rides (been less than 200 miles since the last time).

Wheel is handbuilt by a local wrench from DT Swiss components: RR465 rim, RR1450 hubs (same as 240s), 28-spokes 3-cross. I did ding the hell out of that rim on a huge pothole ~3 months ago and that same wrench did a wonderful job of hammering out the dent. That was about 2,000 miles ago. Then three weeks ago I was on a ride and heard the tell-tale "ping" of a loose spoke. Tightened it up, continued riding

...and yesterday I hear the same sound. Sure enough, it's the exact same spoke. Drive side, 4 away from the valve stem. And nowhere near that old dent, in case that matters.

Any idea why the same spoke -- and only that one spoke -- might continually be coming loose from JRA?

Thanks.
Bob Ross is offline  
Old 09-01-14, 09:45 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times in 83 Posts
Originally Posted by Bob Ross
. . . Any idea why the same spoke -- and only that one spoke -- might continually be coming loose from JRA?

Thanks.
Maybe not tightened enough?
Is twice "continually"?
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 09-01-14, 09:48 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Last time I saw anything like that it happened to me. In my case it was because I'd either gotten a dodgy spoke nipple or damaged the threads in one by cross-threading it onto a spoke while lacing the wheel - either way the "ping" was the spoke pulling through the threads. There was enough metal left to wind it back up to a reasonable tension the first time it happened, but the second time it wouldn't pull tight at all. Luckily I spotted the issue test-riding the bike around the shop, as it wasn't my wheel!

The timescale between the failures makes that a bit unlikely though...
Airburst is offline  
Old 09-01-14, 09:56 AM
  #4  
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,873

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1795 Post(s)
Liked 1,269 Times in 876 Posts
One could make multiple guesses as to why-
Maybe when your 'wrench" rebent the rim, he ended up having to use uneven spoke tensions to get it true.
I'd probably install a new nipple and see if that fixed it.
It probably won't, so the next step would be to use a thread locker such as linseed oil or Blue Lok Tite.
OR take the wheel back to the wrench and let him deal with it. He has the best insight.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 09-01-14, 10:34 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,706

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5779 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times in 1,427 Posts
Obvioudly seeing the wheel would help, but it's fair to assume that, after a major dent removal and alignment, all spokes aren't working equally hard. It's possible that this spoke cannot be brought to high enough tension to not zero out under load without pulling the rim out of true. Losw spoke wheels need higher tension because the rim has more flex in the longer spans between spokes.

It's also possible that something is happening to the rim, like stress cracking near that spoke so it's slowly giving way.

Either way, I'd either let the person who saved it before take a look, or try using something that to bind the nipple. I prefer not bonding the spoke and nipple, and would use some adhesive between the nipple and rim. You can buy a wickable grade of Loctite, or go cheap with a nylon based nail polish, or some kind of glue. Fix the wheel, then apply a drop between the nipple and rim and spin it in.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
yannisg
Bicycle Mechanics
5
01-11-17 01:13 PM
mmcc73
Classic & Vintage
20
05-24-13 11:23 AM
lubozju
Classic & Vintage
9
06-08-12 12:34 AM
Fairmont
Bicycle Mechanics
3
05-31-11 09:20 AM
wearyourtruth
Bicycle Mechanics
12
06-20-10 07:04 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.