Radish_legs

Speedplay instructions say to remove the dust cap. I assume it's the piece of plastic on the end, the same place where the newer pedals have a piece of plastic with a screw in it.

My dust cap has no screw. I'm supposed to pick it out. And then inject grease. And then replace with a new dust cover.

1) do I have to use a new dust cover? Or can I just place the old one back on.
2) if I have to use a new dust cover, will the ones with the screw actually work on my pedal? i.e. is my pedal threaded to accept the screw? Or will I need a new dust cap that has no screw?

Andrew R Stewart 

There was a temporary grease injecting dust cap to be placed in the pedal. It basically a slightly "taller" cap with a counter sunk hole to accept the grease *** needle. After injection the OEM cap was to be reinstalled.

But I've also just drilled a small (1/16"?) hole in the OEM cap, deburred it and pressed the ***'s needle against it to inject. I haven't noticed any entry/contamination from the now exposed by a tiny hole outer bearing.

I believe that the plastic bodied versions all use the same dust cap fitting. So one with a screw should fit the older version without.

Are your X-2s the plastic body w/ TI plates or the original machined AL body? I've run X-2s since the year they came out and love them. The cleat does wear and need annual replacement, I run then dry of any lube(wax). The spindle bearings don't have much open volume around them so the amount of grease they hold is small, so I re grease mine every few months. I have, maybe, 8 pairs on bikes currently. Andy.

Al1943

+1
If you contact Speedplay by phone or e-mail they will probably send you the missing part or other parts to upgrade your pedals (at no cost). I've run 3 sets of X-1 (titanium spindle) pedals for many years, would not trade them for any other pedals.

Radish_legs

So I bought these in 2005, never greased them. As I looked to take off the dust cap today, I discovered that there was in fact a screw, that was so corroded that I couldn't distinguish it at first from the dust cap. The first screw came out with some TLC. The second screw was too rusted and was stripped. I tried to use a counterscrew to get it off, but that only succeeded in removing the head. Then used a narrow drill bit to get to the rest of the screw, and pry off the dust cap. Looking at how it works, the screw only goes into the dust cap. It doesn't screw into the pedal.

A bunch of black grease came out. Impressive. Now my pedals are back to being stiff again. Like they are supposed to.

I'm going to pick up a dust cover from the bike shop who has them for $0.50. Thanks for the suggestions.

Secret Squirrel

I had the same issues with multiple pairs of 15 year old x/2s. I replaced the grease port caps with the ones that had the screws. I have also recently replaced all of the internal bearings with help from the instructions on the internet. Now they are feel like new ones. No bearing play at all.

Radish_legs

what does "bearing play" feel like?

Andrew R Stewart 

Bearing play is when there's a slop or movement between the inner and outer parts that house a bearing. So with a pedal, and assuming that the spindle is properly tightened in the crank arm, one can hold the pedal cage (or body if a Speedplay) and rock it back and forth. If a finger was to be placed on the cage/spindle interface this movement might be detectable as a slight shifting about.

I could go on as to why bearing play can exist, what can be done about it, whether it's a problem or just the way things are and why not having any might not be right. But these questions have different answers for different parts of the bike and different designs for the same parts. Andy.