02 (or 3) Gary Fisher BB Job
09-25-14, 06:39 AM
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02 (or 3) Gary Fisher BB Job
Has anyone done an 02 Wahoo BB before? I'm a beginner with this bike, it's lasted about 10,000 miles but now needs serious attention. Any suggestions on tool brands and the replacement part? Upgrade? I wish to keep it looking original.
This is my first run. I've never seen a BB go out before. Am I in for a hard ride here?
This is my first run. I've never seen a BB go out before. Am I in for a hard ride here?
09-25-14, 07:52 AM
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Not here, I limit my self to living creatures
Oh, do you mean doing service work on the bike? Andy. Who has too much time on his hands this morning.
Oh, do you mean doing service work on the bike? Andy. Who has too much time on his hands this morning.
09-25-14, 07:58 AM
#3
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Has anyone done an 02 Wahoo BB before? I'm a beginner with this bike, it's lasted about 10,000 miles but now needs serious attention. Any suggestions on tool brands and the replacement part? Upgrade? I wish to keep it looking original.
This is my first run. I've never seen a BB go out before. Am I in for a hard ride here?
This is my first run. I've never seen a BB go out before. Am I in for a hard ride here?
Vernier calipers would also be handy, but not necessary.
Pull the cranks. If you have calipers, you can stop there. Measure the width of the bottom bracket shell of the frame and the width of the bb spindle. That will give you a measurement of 68/73 x 1xx, which is enough to call around to shops to find out if anyone local has the BB you need in stock, or have a shop order the correct part. On a mtn bike, it bb shell should be 73mm wide, but it's worth checking.
Alternately, you can remove the BB and the size should be stamped or on a label in the middle of the cartridge. One note regarding BBs -- the drive side is reverse threaded, so removal involves turning it clockwise, install counter-clockwise: righty loosey, lefty tighty. The non drive side is regular thread.
Shimano replacement BBs are cheap, $20-30, and should be all you need, similar to original quality.
Last edited by mconlonx; 09-25-14 at 08:42 AM.
09-25-14, 08:29 AM
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At to "looking original", there is no part as hidden as the bottom bracket so it's appearance should be a non-issue. What model crank does the bike have as that will give us some idea of the bottom bracket configuration it needs?
09-25-14, 04:40 PM
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I'll have to look at the cranks when I get home, I can't remember what they are except to say the chainrings don't come off.
I do have calipers, both standard and metric. Haven't ordered tools yet.
I do have calipers, both standard and metric. Haven't ordered tools yet.
Last edited by eric_454; 09-25-14 at 04:41 PM. Reason: to add content
09-26-14, 11:55 AM
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My bike has SR Suntour stickers on the cranks.
Still haven't got my tools yet...
Still haven't got my tools yet...
09-26-14, 01:20 PM
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Still haven't got my tools yet...
09-21-16, 08:29 AM
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I finally got around to doing this job. It's easy to get sidetracked having ten other bikes to ride. Park Tool spanner and Lifu crank puller made it easy. Antiseize compound on the threads and done in 15 minutes.
09-25-16, 06:53 PM
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It's the threaded type. Was really simple to do.
09-25-16, 07:25 PM
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Park Tools (the brand) are the best. They are expensive, but worth it. If you think you'll only use the tools very occasionally and want to save some money, Performance Bike Shop has their own house brand, Spin Doctor, that is pretty good, and Nashbar probably has something similar.
