what is going on with my ultegra casette 6600?
#1
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what is going on with my ultegra casette 6600?
So I got the nut thing off, and the first three sprockets. I was expecting the rest of the cassette to come right off the freehub, but it won't budge at all. Then looking at the freehub, I notice that it is not keyed. And there are three black plastic shims there between the cassette and the freehub. You can see two of them at the 4 and 7 o'clock positions. What the heck is going on?? Why won't my cassette come off?
#2
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Thread Starter
maybe the cassette is stuck onto the freehub, as described in this thread.
Any experience with BikesDirect and Warranties?
But I'm still mystified why there are little plastic shims laying against the freehub.
Forget this, guess the easiest thing is to probably buy a new cassette and keep this wheel as spare + cassette.
Any experience with BikesDirect and Warranties?
But I'm still mystified why there are little plastic shims laying against the freehub.
Forget this, guess the easiest thing is to probably buy a new cassette and keep this wheel as spare + cassette.
#3
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Thread Starter
ok, so I need two chain whips to do this job.
Ask A Mechanic: Removing Jammed Cassettes From Alloy Freehub Bodies - YouTube
Ask A Mechanic: Removing Jammed Cassettes From Alloy Freehub Bodies - YouTube
#4
don't try this at home.
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I can't tell from the photo. Are the plastic shims running down the slots from smallest to largest cog? Or are they layered in between two cogs?
~~~~~~~~
Removing Stuck Cassettes From Alloy Freehub Bodies The video shows how to use two chainwhips to unlock each stuck cog.
From the link:
Cassette howto
The steel cogs can dig into the softer aluminum freehub.
From the link:
~~~~~~~~
Removing Stuck Cassettes From Alloy Freehub Bodies The video shows how to use two chainwhips to unlock each stuck cog.
From the link:
"Alloy freehub shells are lightweight but their softer material often gives way to the splines on cassettes. The splines dig into the freehub body and can create a tight fit which can be hard to remove."
~~~~~Cassette howto
The steel cogs can dig into the softer aluminum freehub.
From the link:
These notches present a problem when trying to remove your cassette; the middle cogs get jammed in to place, and you can’t pull them off. The easiest solution is this – take a shop rag, place it over the cassette, and try to force the stuck cogs counterclockwise – out of their notches.
If that doesn’t work (i.e. your freehub is really bad), there is a two-person method. Person 1 holds the cassette with a rag. Person 2 carefully takes a flat head screwdriver, and places it against a tooth of the stuck cog. Then they gently tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer.
But I would use a small dowel or similar piece of wood against the cog teeth and tap that.
If that doesn’t work (i.e. your freehub is really bad), there is a two-person method. Person 1 holds the cassette with a rag. Person 2 carefully takes a flat head screwdriver, and places it against a tooth of the stuck cog. Then they gently tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer.
Last edited by rm -rf; 09-29-14 at 07:08 PM.
#5
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Or wrap a rag around the exposed bit of the hub and grip with some pliers, then use the chain whip to rotate the rest of the cassette counter-clockwise to see if you can release it from the notches.
Or if the hub is pretty bad and you plan to replace, try pulling the hub with the cassette still on, place over an old soup can and tap (knock the snot out of) tto the hub and see if it will release. Had to do this once...The hub was already toast but the cassette actually survived.
Or if the hub is pretty bad and you plan to replace, try pulling the hub with the cassette still on, place over an old soup can and tap (knock the snot out of) tto the hub and see if it will release. Had to do this once...The hub was already toast but the cassette actually survived.
#6
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The shims don't go all the way down. The seem to be for the middle few of the cogs. You will note from the picture that the spacers (all of them) on the freehub are just as wide as the "master" spacer. Kinda weird. I'm really torn on what to do. Just leave this cassette on and use it as a spare or spend the $ to get a new one. But they are kinda pricey.
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The shims don't go all the way down. The seem to be for the middle few of the cogs. You will note from the picture that the spacers (all of them) on the freehub are just as wide as the "master" spacer. Kinda weird. I'm really torn on what to do. Just leave this cassette on and use it as a spare or spend the $ to get a new one. But they are kinda pricey.
#8
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Typical of those and a problem seen in SRAMs. Usually a gentle pry between the hub and a rocking motion of the cassette should help.
#9
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anyone else notice that it looks like a campag keying on a shimano freehub?
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Those shims/clips are sold by American Classic to help protect soft aluminum freehub bodies.
They help, but are not 100% effective.
10 Speed Clip Kit - Small Parts - Parts
Is that perchance an American Classic wheel? Or a previous owner could have added them.
They help, but are not 100% effective.
10 Speed Clip Kit - Small Parts - Parts
Is that perchance an American Classic wheel? Or a previous owner could have added them.
Last edited by andr0id; 09-30-14 at 09:59 AM.
#11
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Not sure which Campag you have been looking at, but that look nothing like any I have had, from Fulcrum to Campag Veloce to Record, The patter does look just like a Shimano/SRAM, like it should.
#12
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Thread Starter
Those shims/clips are sold by American Classic to help protect soft aluminum freehub bodies.
They help, but are not 100% effective.
10 Speed Clip Kit - Small Parts - Parts
Is that perchance an American Classic wheel? Or a previous owner could have added them.
They help, but are not 100% effective.
10 Speed Clip Kit - Small Parts - Parts
Is that perchance an American Classic wheel? Or a previous owner could have added them.