700 Miles On A Chain?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
700 Miles On A Chain?
I had a bike built for me by an LBS (Surly Pacer, SRAM Rival) in July.
I'd had trouble shifting up to the large ring for some time. After multiple trips back to the LBS owner who built the bike, it was finally tuned correctly by a different LBS (actually a local franchisee of a national chain).
Anyway, the original builder said I had worn out the chain (less than 3 months, 700 miles, no cross-chaining). How? "You must be a pedal masher," he said.
This sounds like BS. 700 miles on a chain? (SRAM 1031). The second LBS who fixed the shifting problem noted that the b-screw adjustment was way off on the rear derailleur. SRAM states the upper wheel of the rear derailleur's tension pulley should be 3 or 4 mm from the largest gear. Mine was like 4 inches.
So, presumably this put more tension on the chain. I noticed when I sat on the bike (before the fix) the chain had no wiggle -like it was going to snap. Now I can reach down and nudge it a cm or so with my 210 lbs self on the bike. There's less "binding" noise now too while riding. Could the b-screw be what caused the chain to last only 700 miles?
I'd had trouble shifting up to the large ring for some time. After multiple trips back to the LBS owner who built the bike, it was finally tuned correctly by a different LBS (actually a local franchisee of a national chain).
Anyway, the original builder said I had worn out the chain (less than 3 months, 700 miles, no cross-chaining). How? "You must be a pedal masher," he said.
This sounds like BS. 700 miles on a chain? (SRAM 1031). The second LBS who fixed the shifting problem noted that the b-screw adjustment was way off on the rear derailleur. SRAM states the upper wheel of the rear derailleur's tension pulley should be 3 or 4 mm from the largest gear. Mine was like 4 inches.
So, presumably this put more tension on the chain. I noticed when I sat on the bike (before the fix) the chain had no wiggle -like it was going to snap. Now I can reach down and nudge it a cm or so with my 210 lbs self on the bike. There's less "binding" noise now too while riding. Could the b-screw be what caused the chain to last only 700 miles?
#2
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,002
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4338 Post(s)
Liked 2,981 Times
in
1,617 Posts
Nope, that's BS. There are ways of damaging your chain that would show up as a twisted link or something.
The B screw will not put more tension on your chain, neither will cross-chaining... and more tension would not wear your chain out faster anyway unless it's huge like you hooked it up to a diesel or something.
B screw wasn't the cause of your front shifting problem either.
The B screw will not put more tension on your chain, neither will cross-chaining... and more tension would not wear your chain out faster anyway unless it's huge like you hooked it up to a diesel or something.
B screw wasn't the cause of your front shifting problem either.
#3
Mechanic/Tourist
Anyway, the original builder said I had worn out the chain (less than 3 months, 700 miles, no cross-chaining). How? "You must be a pedal masher," he said... Could the b-screw be (that) caused the chain to last
only 700 miles?
only 700 miles?
Pedal masher: You don't say what your normal pedaling rate is or what kind of terrain and gearing you have, all of which can have a marked effect on chain life, though something extreme would have to be involved for a chain to be "worn out" in 700 miles.
B-tension: Only if you rode all the time in low gear and the chain was too short, and you only rode up steep hills, and the b-tension screw was really long - and I can't conceive of how the upper pulley could be 4 inches from the rear cog.
Last edited by Mark Stone; 10-01-14 at 03:41 PM. Reason: repaired quote
#4
Banned
were you too sparing on the lubrication of the chain?
more tension comes with increasing the wind up spring's back force, around the cage Pivot rotation..
more tension comes with increasing the wind up spring's back force, around the cage Pivot rotation..
#5
Senior Member
The shortest chain life I have had is a little over 2000 miles. On the advice of Zinn I used Pro Gold and did not remove my chain to clean it. He was full of it.
The only way I can see to get only 700 miles from a chain is to ride it in a down pour and not relube it.
The only way I can see to get only 700 miles from a chain is to ride it in a down pour and not relube it.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#7
Banned
Alternate holes that the return spring is anchored in .. Older RD did that ... IDK Specifically about yours.. what ever that is ..
it requires taking the RD apart.
it requires taking the RD apart.
#8
Mechanic/Tourist
I believe fietsbob was merely telling you the way to increase take-up tension, NOT telling you that doing so would change chain life (as it will not). If you want accurate help we need more info as I requested above.
#9
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,002
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4338 Post(s)
Liked 2,981 Times
in
1,617 Posts
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It was not measured with a ruler that I know of. I have no idea what my rate of pedaling is. It's hilly in the Charlotte, NC area. I ride on back roads that have the occasional broken pavement. The bike has 50/34 in the front, 11-25 in the back.
#11
Banned
yea, Work puts the top tension on the chain ... Like data? KMC has a LCD Digital chain wear checker .
#12
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
Since you had trouble shifting up to the 50T, did you end up using the small ring with the smaller cassette cogs (11, 12, 13T) a lot? The flexing around smaller cogs can wear a chain out faster, but 700 miles is still pretty hard to believe! I bet what happened was that the chain was marginal, and they used a chain-checker tool, which are known to "fail" chains that still have some life left in them.
Next time you take a bike in for derailleur adjustments, you (and anyone else who's had shifting trouble) should ask them to demonstrate the shifting on the stand before taking it home. It shouldn't take more than a minute, and both parties can be satisfied that the bike shifted through all gear combinations without issue.
Next time you take a bike in for derailleur adjustments, you (and anyone else who's had shifting trouble) should ask them to demonstrate the shifting on the stand before taking it home. It shouldn't take more than a minute, and both parties can be satisfied that the bike shifted through all gear combinations without issue.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That's the funny thing - it never missed a shift on a bike stand. It would mis-shift about half the time while riding, specifically going from the small ring to the large ring. I would press the shiftlever in and the chain would go up but when I let go of the lever, the chain would drop back down.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,092
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4207 Post(s)
Liked 3,874 Times
in
2,314 Posts
First- 700 miles before a measureablely worn chain is real quick but I have seen it before. Tandems, cargo bikes, bikes left to rust and not lubed, all extreme cases, all with very narrow chaind too.
Second- the vast majority of front shifting issues, assuming a somewhat well adjusted ft der, are rider dependent. Todays teeth designs are so much more shift friendly that many riders never have learned to shift with best technique.
Third- While chain tension is a factor in front shifting (hence the need to soft pedal, see comment #2 ) the tension placed on a chain by the rear der's cage spring is a FRACTION of what the rider can exert on the chain.
Fourth- I wonder if the first shop took the time to test ride the bike in front of the OP. Or go on a ride around the block with him. Andy.
Second- the vast majority of front shifting issues, assuming a somewhat well adjusted ft der, are rider dependent. Todays teeth designs are so much more shift friendly that many riders never have learned to shift with best technique.
Third- While chain tension is a factor in front shifting (hence the need to soft pedal, see comment #2 ) the tension placed on a chain by the rear der's cage spring is a FRACTION of what the rider can exert on the chain.
Fourth- I wonder if the first shop took the time to test ride the bike in front of the OP. Or go on a ride around the block with him. Andy.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
You DEFINITELY need a different LBS. The guy who advised you is clearly incompetent or a charlatan.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,092
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4207 Post(s)
Liked 3,874 Times
in
2,314 Posts
That's the funny thing - it never missed a shift on a bike stand. It would mis-shift about half the time while riding, specifically going from the small ring to the large ring. I would press the shiftlever in and the chain would go up but when I let go of the lever, the chain would drop back down.
Now this sounds like my qualification. the ft der wasn't well adjusted. If the up shift to the large ring did, in fact, occure and the chain engaged the ring's teeth then the only way for it to spontaneously down shift is because the der was pushing on the chain trying to down shift it.
The qualifications on this is that the lever is working well, that with proper lever/der cage travel the lever will engage the high gear ratchet and stay put. Too tight a cable could also cause the lever to almost but not quite engage the pawl. Andy.
#17
Mechanic/Tourist
Many chain checkers are not accurate - more a screening tool than an measurement device. A ruler is simple and accurate. No idea at all of pedaling rate? Is it close to one rev per second (60 rpm) or significantly higher? What gear combos do you ride in most of the time? Preferably the 50/11 and 50/12 combos should be used only when going downhill, and even the 50/13 would be on a very, very good day on the level for short periods of time (20+mph at only 70 rpm). Even the 34/11 is a pretty high gear (about the same as a 50/16) best for going over 18 mph. In addition the small chainring and smaller cog combos will wear the chain and cogs a bit faster.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 10-01-14 at 04:18 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702
Bikes: old clunker
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times
in
83 Posts
Seems very possible. Also, the extra narrow 9, 10, and 11 speed chains can wear breathtakingly fast, depending on several factors. Good idea to carefully measure the old chain to know what's really happening.
#21
Senior Member
#22
Mostly harmless ™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,430
Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1107 Post(s)
Liked 216 Times
in
130 Posts
I would not judge the level of expertise of LBS mechanics by a post made by an, obviously, no offence meant, unexperienced cyclist, who writes as he understood, interpreted. Just my experience from dealing with different people - always hear both sides.
SRAM is a bit picky - they want particular distance of der from the cogs - probably 4 mm from the cogs - that is correct.
Chain can get worn from 1000 km (700 miles). Poor quality one, or lots of cross chaining, or using the smallest sporcket at the rear most of the time etc. There is a simple way to test that - just measure the chain for wear.
Edit: it is 6 mm for SRAM, or 3 chain rivets for older SRAM models of rear derailleurs.
SRAM is a bit picky - they want particular distance of der from the cogs - probably 4 mm from the cogs - that is correct.
Chain can get worn from 1000 km (700 miles). Poor quality one, or lots of cross chaining, or using the smallest sporcket at the rear most of the time etc. There is a simple way to test that - just measure the chain for wear.
Edit: it is 6 mm for SRAM, or 3 chain rivets for older SRAM models of rear derailleurs.
Last edited by Bike Gremlin; 10-02-14 at 02:29 AM. Reason: data correction
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,522
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1422 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
5 Posts
I would not judge the level of expertise of LBS mechanics by a post made by an, obviously, no offence meant, unexperienced cyclist, who writes as he understood, interpreted. Just my experience from dealing with different people - always hear both sides.
SRAM is a bit picky - they want particular distance of der from the cogs - probably 4 mm from the cogs - that is correct.
Chain can get worn from 1000 km (700 miles). Poor quality one, or lots of cross chaining, or using the smallest sporcket at the rear most of the time etc. There is a simple way to test that - just measure the chain for wear.
Edit: it is 6 mm for SRAM, or 3 chain rivets for older SRAM models of rear derailleurs.
SRAM is a bit picky - they want particular distance of der from the cogs - probably 4 mm from the cogs - that is correct.
Chain can get worn from 1000 km (700 miles). Poor quality one, or lots of cross chaining, or using the smallest sporcket at the rear most of the time etc. There is a simple way to test that - just measure the chain for wear.
Edit: it is 6 mm for SRAM, or 3 chain rivets for older SRAM models of rear derailleurs.
For FD, most specifically is how high above the big chainring the cage should sit and the exact angle of the cage with respect to the chainring.
For RD, they will tell you exactly which cog to adjust on and when the chain should start to touch the next cog when shifting. They will also give specific info for the tension screw.
Getting this correct makes on the road shifting pretty much perfect from the get go.
Getting it "kinda close" means you will drop chains inexplicably and have shifting problems under load.
Last edited by andr0id; 10-02-14 at 07:28 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bagel007
Bicycle Mechanics
13
04-06-10 07:52 PM