New Bike Issues
10-09-14, 08:35 AM
#26
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A mere 1/2 turn of the high limit screw on the rear derailleur did the trick.
Whomever said: "adjust the limit screw on the rear derailleur," you, my friend, are a God.
Thank you.
However, this does not mean I am not going to upgrade to full 105 or replace the whole thing with Campy
It just means I have one less annoyance until that glorious day arrives.
10-09-14, 09:08 AM
#27
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Upon closer inspection, I think the chain is the correct size.
It's a matter of the chainline being off, which I think may be due to having a mish-mash of components that were not engineered to necessarily go together (Shimano, Campy, and SRAM are made to work in groups--FSA is not). The reason I think this is because the chain between the smallest cog and the large chainring is at a very slight outward angle, as if the cassette were too wide for the crankset. I think if were to replace the FSA crankset (never did like FSA very much) with a Shimano double 105 crankset the problem would be remedied.
Then again, who knows?
It's a matter of the chainline being off, which I think may be due to having a mish-mash of components that were not engineered to necessarily go together (Shimano, Campy, and SRAM are made to work in groups--FSA is not). The reason I think this is because the chain between the smallest cog and the large chainring is at a very slight outward angle, as if the cassette were too wide for the crankset. I think if were to replace the FSA crankset (never did like FSA very much) with a Shimano double 105 crankset the problem would be remedied.
Then again, who knows?
The thing is that a 10 speed chain line is pretty well specified and all the parts you have should work together.
Yeah, it's a mismatch due to the manufacturers cutting costs while still putting a pretty derailleur on the bike.
10-09-14, 11:04 AM
#28
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A mere 1/2 turn of the high limit screw on the rear derailleur did the trick.
Whomever said: "adjust the limit screw on the rear derailleur," you, my friend, are a God.
Thank you.
However, this does not mean I am not going to upgrade to full 105 or replace the whole thing with Campy
It just means I have one less annoyance until that glorious day arrives.If your bike was put together as poorly as you say (which is honestly kind of shocking) I would be tempted to pretty much reassemble the bike from the ground up. I wouldn't trust that the dealer appropriately greased all the appropriate threads, torqued everything to a reasonable range, etc. Properly routing cables and cutting cable housing can also be a big difference in shift performance, making sure the B screw on the RD is dialed in perfectly, etc.
10-09-14, 11:19 AM
#29
Mechanic/Tourist
The info that there was a clicking sound rather than rubbing on the next cog would have led to a faster resolution. The limit screw being too far in would not result in the chain rubbing on the next cog, except in the back/below where the shift takes place.
10-09-14, 11:23 AM
#30
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You're welcome! Nothing wrong with upgrading either. Again, Shimano's matching crank/brakes are really nice parts, and it will certainly bring the bike together aesthetically. I am amazed at how good the 5700 brake is on my bike. A new cassette really won't shift better (unless you get closer ratios), but might save a moderate amount of weight. I usually buy SRAM cassettes because usually I can get 1070 cassettes for cheaper than Ultegra and they're lighter. Changing the FD will do pretty much nothing except change the logo probably. All in all you might save 200-300 grams on drivetrain parts.
If your bike was put together as poorly as you say (which is honestly kind of shocking) I would be tempted to pretty much reassemble the bike from the ground up. I wouldn't trust that the dealer appropriately greased all the appropriate threads, torqued everything to a reasonable range, etc. Properly routing cables and cutting cable housing can also be a big difference in shift performance, making sure the B screw on the RD is dialed in perfectly, etc.
If your bike was put together as poorly as you say (which is honestly kind of shocking) I would be tempted to pretty much reassemble the bike from the ground up. I wouldn't trust that the dealer appropriately greased all the appropriate threads, torqued everything to a reasonable range, etc. Properly routing cables and cutting cable housing can also be a big difference in shift performance, making sure the B screw on the RD is dialed in perfectly, etc.
Yeah, I have 105 (I think they may be 5700 -- they're brand new) brakes on my LeMond, and I love them. They brake well, and are as smooth as butter. So much better than the Tektros that came on the Cinelli. Though the Tektros aren't terrible, they're just nothing to write home about.
I'm leaning toward going all 105 (however, I haven't totally abandoned the notion of going with all Campagnolo Veloce), at this point (FD, crankset, chain, and brakes). The wheels that came with the Cinelli are Shimano R500's--not great, but not terrible. Any recommendations for moderately priced wheels?
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