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If I swap out cassettes, should I shorten the chain?

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If I swap out cassettes, should I shorten the chain?

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Old 10-17-14, 07:21 AM
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If I swap out cassettes, should I shorten the chain?

Most of the road riding I do is pretty flat. My Specialized Roubaix came with a 10 speed 12-30 rear cassette. I'm thinking of changing it out for at 12-27 or 12-25 to gain the 16T gear and get a little smoother shifting on the flats. I figure I'm not giving up much since I rarely ride hills.

So my question... should I shorten my chain when (if) I go to the smaller cassette?

BTW - 50/34 compact crankset, if that matters.
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Old 10-17-14, 07:58 AM
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For that small of a change, I wouldn't bother.
There's even a chance that going to a 27 wouldn't require any shortening anyway.

Also, if you decide to go back to the 30T, you can without any fuss. You can't really add a link back without using the special pins or another Quick Link.
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Old 10-17-14, 08:05 AM
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rpecot, Your low gear with a 25T would be ~35 GI. I've rode all around the Katy area with a ~48 GI low. For us the best gearing is a scheme with close ratios to deal with the wind, in particular during the afternoon.

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Old 10-17-14, 08:13 AM
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Going from a 30T to a 25T cog would allow you to shorten the chain by half of the 5T difference or 2.5 half-links, basically one full (inner + outer) link. A 27T large cog wouldn't allow any practical shortening. So, unless your chain is significantly too long now, it's not worth it. That said, you will probably need a new chain with any new cassette so you can size it then.
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Old 10-17-14, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by bradtx
rpecot, Your low gear with a 25T would be ~35 GI. I've rode all around the Katy area with a ~48 GI low. For us the best gearing is a scheme with close ratios to deal with the wind, in particular during the afternoon.

Brad
Yes, Brad... that damn wind can be brutal. Most of my spinning is in the 14-15-17 range on my current set up. I was leaning towards the 12-27 since with either choice I would be gaining the 16T gear, but I would only be giving up the one gear (30T) on the low end.

Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
For that small of a change, I wouldn't bother.
There's even a chance that going to a 27 wouldn't require any shortening anyway.


Also, if you decide to go back to the 30T, you can without any fuss. You can't really add a link back without using the special pins or another Quick Link.
Good point. Thanks Bill.
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Old 10-17-14, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
That said, you will probably need a new chain with any new cassette so you can size it then.
I was afraid someone was going to say that. I was hoping I wasn't going to have to add "chain sizing" to my ever expanding skill set. Back to google (bike forums/youtube/etc/etc) we go...
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Old 10-17-14, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rpecot
I was afraid someone was going to say that. I was hoping I wasn't going to have to add "chain sizing" to my ever expanding skill set. Back to google (bike forums/youtube/etc/etc) we go...
Well, if you are able to resize your current chain, dealing with a new one isn't going to be any more difficult. There are a couple of chain sizing techniques and, as long as you aren't exceeding your rear derailleur's wrap capacity, they all work well.

As Bill said, you could size it to match the old one giving you the 30T capability or, better, just remove the old chain and cassette and keep them together as a matched set for future use. Using a master link in both the old and new chains will make swapping up and back very easy.
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Old 10-17-14, 08:50 AM
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I'd agree, always get a new chain when you replace the cassette , shorten as required.
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Old 10-17-14, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
I'd agree, always get a new chain when you replace the cassette , shorten as required.
Depends how worn the current cassette is.
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Old 10-17-14, 08:59 AM
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Brand new Take off OK, tossing chains early spreads wear life out on the other parts.

sometimes cheap costs more in the long run .. Ymmv.

package the old chain with the removed cassette , they wear into each other

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-17-14 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 10-17-14, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rpecot
I was afraid someone was going to say that. I was hoping I wasn't going to have to add "chain sizing" to my ever expanding skill set. Back to google (bike forums/youtube/etc/etc) we go...
Pretty simple really, I pulled it off first try :-).

For even MORE fun buy TWO new chains and rotate them every 500 miles :-)....always having a pre cleaned and lubed one "on deck" ready to go :-). Some folks buy a tandem chain and split it in half, making their two chains for 1.5x the cost of a single chain :-).

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Old 10-17-14, 10:51 AM
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rpecot, I must've erred with an earlier edit. If you chain measures any wear, use a new chain.

Brad
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