Seatpost collar
11-03-14, 01:36 PM
#3
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Did you look in the hole on the nut side?
At least some manufacturers use a collared nut (like used on road brake calipers), not threads cut directly in to the frame. So if there's a nut in there, you could probably replace it, and if not, you could probably ream out the stripped threads and use a collared nut in there.
At least some manufacturers use a collared nut (like used on road brake calipers), not threads cut directly in to the frame. So if there's a nut in there, you could probably replace it, and if not, you could probably ream out the stripped threads and use a collared nut in there.
11-03-14, 02:11 PM
#4
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You F'd up a Richey Cross Frame ? the only Cheap way to fix it is to use a longer Bolt and put a Nut on the bolt where it sticks out past the left face of the Frame.
11-03-14, 02:13 PM
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If the threads are indeed tapped directly into the frame metal, not into a pressed in (and replaceable) nut I see two approaches. 1) You may be able to drill out the stripped threads and tap it oversize or, 2) at worst, drill out the threads and use a longer bolt and external nut. The later won't be pretty but it will work.
11-03-14, 02:25 PM
#6
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Hire a Machine shop to accurately bore out a bunch of Steel; then you can revert to using one of these seat post binder bolts
Universal Cycles -- Problem Solvers Seat Binder Bolts
Universal Cycles -- Problem Solvers Seat Binder Bolts
11-03-14, 02:45 PM
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There are many many ways to repair stripped threads, and many MORE ways to continue using the seat post with stripped threads in the above pics. A few of which have been mentioned above. The easiest way would be to either drill out the threads and retap with a larger size, or simply use a seat post bolt/nut that many other bikes use. A trip to your local hardware store will have you out riding again in no time. (I realize OP doesn't have the bike, I was speaking hypothetically.)
11-03-14, 02:56 PM
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Seatpost binder bolt threads were commonly tapped directly into the 'ears' of the seat cluster throughout the age of steel, aka the first hundred years of bicycle manufacturing, without many problems. If bikes didn't have threads tapped directly into part of the frame, they had oversized holes and an elongated keyed 'nut' on one side and a blt on the other.
Removable collars came around primarily because of aluminum frames. And ironically, the easily replaceable aluminum clamps made stripped or damaged threads much more likely.
The usual method of failure for old steel seatpost binders is not striped threads, but bent or 'stretched' ears that would begin tot touch in the middle before achieving proper tightness against the post. Since the frame in question does not have the traditional ears, I don't think this will be an issue with that frame.
Removable collars came around primarily because of aluminum frames. And ironically, the easily replaceable aluminum clamps made stripped or damaged threads much more likely.
The usual method of failure for old steel seatpost binders is not striped threads, but bent or 'stretched' ears that would begin tot touch in the middle before achieving proper tightness against the post. Since the frame in question does not have the traditional ears, I don't think this will be an issue with that frame.
11-03-14, 03:16 PM
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It's actually a nice system and very unlikely to strip, There's a greater risk of breaking the bolt, but even that would be repairable.
Be sure to grease the thread so the bolt can't rust in place, and if the worst happens (not likely), the two most common repait options in order of preference are to use an insert coil to restore a stripped thread, and drill out and use, an allen key binder bolt and nut.
Be sure to grease the thread so the bolt can't rust in place, and if the worst happens (not likely), the two most common repait options in order of preference are to use an insert coil to restore a stripped thread, and drill out and use, an allen key binder bolt and nut.
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11-03-14, 06:05 PM
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11-03-14, 06:41 PM
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Not speaking for or against the bike, but it's a nice, well built bike with nice detail features. Certainly the seat clamp design shouldn't be a factor against.
One comment in case it is a factor. The rear cable design is Canti specific. If you have plans (or even want the option) for V-brakes the cable routing design will work against you because there's no rear fulcrum (stop) for a housing loop.
One comment in case it is a factor. The rear cable design is Canti specific. If you have plans (or even want the option) for V-brakes the cable routing design will work against you because there's no rear fulcrum (stop) for a housing loop.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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