What do you use to lubricate your cables?
 

I used to use pedros ice wax, then i tried regular grease. It embeds well into the fibers of the cable. Now ive been using tri flow, a squirt down the housing. What do you use?

Started using Boeshield T-9 this year to lube the cables and chains on my road bikes. Last year I used 3in1.

Many people like ProLink.

You don't want to use... grease.

why not? It worked quite well. I think tri flow might be better though, maybe its just my imagination. Im very fond of the stuff

You huffing it,or marinating cow butt in it?

No i just think it lubricates well. Best chainlube i've used, i figure its probably good for the cables as well

A thin layer of white lithium grease if i remember to do it before the housing goes on.....

Back in the day. It was standard practice to put a thin film of Phil grease on the cables before the housing went on.

Didn't seem to attract any ick.

-Z

I've heard modern teflon lined housings don't need lubrication, but I use a drop or two of a thin lubricant (tri-flow) before sliding the housing on. Seems to work nicely, and my cables are smooth as butter.

Grease might congeal up on you, its a bit stickier than what you want. Grease is meant to be beefy to handle the stress of metal/metal contact, not be the best lubricant possible. Tri-flow and its ilk are good lubricants that won't goo up.

peace,
sam

The Shimano cable housing that come with STI shifters has grease injected inside from the factory. The grease is injected in from the end with the "Shimano" logo on it. These cables should be installed with the logo up at the shifter end so when the inner cable is inserted inside the grease will push through toward the other end of the cable.

As far as what to use for lube, I can see no reason to question Shimano on this. Grease is the best lubricant and when used with those nice Shimano cable ends with O-rings inside, the grease stays inside and the water stays out.

Ed

Most of my bikes have cheap, old housings and cheap old cables. Hey, I'm old and cheap! :rolleyes:
I lube them with Triflow becauswe I always have some around in my work tool kit, if not in my bike kit.

I've had no problems in years.

Doc

I work on a lot of bikes without the lined housing, and grease seems to work well. I use a red synthetic grease that's very good, but it stinks!

I don't. Like Rayain, I use teflon housings and teflon coated cables.

That's the method I use. Seems to work fine.

White Lightning

Lube attacts dirt. Teflon coating shreds eventually. I prefer bare SS cables and uncoated housings and leave them alone until they are replaced.

Al

I use Dupont Teflon Dry Lube from the hardware store.

nothing

Whatever I'm putting on my chain...Pedros Extra-dry all purpose -says for cables as well.

I do remember someone using graphite back in the '80s.

......as he absolutely murders my handle. :roflmao:
That's funny I inspected my year old cables today and the only evidence of "shedding" is only at one specific location. along the pulley for my Travel Agent. Seeing as how this is completely out of the housing and riding on a pulley with a greased pivot point I really don't see how it's a heinous problem.
http://img60.exs.cx/img60/240/travelagent6bb.jpg
The gear cables on the other hand looked as fresh as they did when I put them in.

On the other hand you'd probably get more life out of your cables and a smoother action if you took some step to "smooth" things out. Some lubes may attrach dirt but rust LOVES unlubricated surfaces.

You can eliminate the travel agent on the front. I've used V's on the front with STI on two bikes now and much prefer the feel and better braking sans travel agent. You do need an agent on the rear (or a cantilever) as without it, the breaking is too powerful especially on wet roads.

Stainless Steel cables don't rust. I get at least as good, mostly better service from cables with no teflon as I get with it. Lube itself adds drag to the cable, but that really only affects, if it does at all, the rear derailleur response time.

For my ATB, I like to put on a new rear derailleur cable (inner +outer) every 12 to 14 months, about 800 miles of mostly sandy single-track, to insure snappy down-shifting. It's cheap.

Al