Replacing Wal Mart Beach Cruiser Bottom Bracket Advice...
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Replacing Wal Mart Beach Cruiser Bottom Bracket Advice...
Hello Everyone,
I am looking to service the bottom bracket of my Walmart Kent Del Rio beach cruiser. I bought this ultra cheap bike as a grocery runner and it has worked quite well for me. Given it was a $129 bike, I had to go through everything and adjust the hubs, shifting, etc. The stock brakes were horrendous and I replaced them with dual pivots which made it stop effectively, especially when loaded with groceries.
However, since day one, the bottom bracket has made some "clinking noises" and it does not feel smooth, even w/ the chain off and just spinning the cranks. I would like to open it up but I'm unfamiliar w/ what tool I would need to do that. Would this be the tool I need?
Amazon.com : Park Tool HCW-5 Lock Ring Spanner : Bike Hand Tools : Sports & Outdoors
I think the goal is to replace the stock bb w/ a sealed unit... Unfortunately, it does appear that crank threads of the non drive arm are stripped so I'm not sure how I'm going to get it off... Any suggestions? I would prefer not to buy new crank arms given the budget of this bike, but if I have to, any suggestions for something cheap?
TIA for your help and advice!
Pete
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Normally, the tools needed are a wrench to get the pedals off (if desired/necessary), a crank arm extractor to remove the arms, a lock ring tool like the one you posted to get the lock ring off, and finally whatever tools are needed to remove your particular fixed and adjustable cups. (Often a wrench and pin spanner, but you can improvise a replacement for the pin spanner.)
If your crank arm's threads are buggered up so you can't thread in an extractor, you may be able to use an automotive gear puller to remove the crank arm. You can likely borrow one at no cost from a local auto parts shop. FBinNY, one of this forum's resident gurus, has also mentioned using Jacobs chuck wedges to remove stripped crank arms, which seem like a great option if you can get your hands on a set. With either of these tools, you'd hopefully be able to remove your crank arms without damaging them any further and would thus be able to reuse them.
If you wind up needing to replace your crank arms, you may be able to source an inexpensive replacement from somewhere like Niagara Cycle. Browsing their site, square taper cruiser cranksets seem to start around $20.
If your crank arm's threads are buggered up so you can't thread in an extractor, you may be able to use an automotive gear puller to remove the crank arm. You can likely borrow one at no cost from a local auto parts shop. FBinNY, one of this forum's resident gurus, has also mentioned using Jacobs chuck wedges to remove stripped crank arms, which seem like a great option if you can get your hands on a set. With either of these tools, you'd hopefully be able to remove your crank arms without damaging them any further and would thus be able to reuse them.
If you wind up needing to replace your crank arms, you may be able to source an inexpensive replacement from somewhere like Niagara Cycle. Browsing their site, square taper cruiser cranksets seem to start around $20.
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Those companies never put enough grease in their bearings and they usually over tighten them.
repack and proper adjustment would do wonders.
repack and proper adjustment would do wonders.
#4
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YouTube "bottom bracket" and you'll be a pro in fifteen minutes.
#6
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You don't need to remove the pedals.
Besides a crank extractor, The HCW-5 might fit.
It appears you simply need a hex wrench to fit the NDS cup.
A picture of the NDS would allow one to see what tool to recommend for it.
Likely, it has caged bearings. IF you remove them, note which way they face in relation to the cups.
The spindle may have an offset on one end, so pay attention to it.
Personally, I'd recommend getting 11 new 1/4" bearing balls, using grease to hold them in place. The caged bearings will have fewer.
Also don't be surprised if you have pitting on the bearing surfaces. These are very cheap BB's and don't use the best steels/machining.
IF so, replacement cartridge BB's are available for rather cheap. Note the spindle for markings. There may be a "code" on it such as 3-P, 3-s etc which will be useful to determine a proper size cartridge if needed.
Besides a crank extractor, The HCW-5 might fit.
It appears you simply need a hex wrench to fit the NDS cup.
A picture of the NDS would allow one to see what tool to recommend for it.
Likely, it has caged bearings. IF you remove them, note which way they face in relation to the cups.
The spindle may have an offset on one end, so pay attention to it.
Personally, I'd recommend getting 11 new 1/4" bearing balls, using grease to hold them in place. The caged bearings will have fewer.
Also don't be surprised if you have pitting on the bearing surfaces. These are very cheap BB's and don't use the best steels/machining.
IF so, replacement cartridge BB's are available for rather cheap. Note the spindle for markings. There may be a "code" on it such as 3-P, 3-s etc which will be useful to determine a proper size cartridge if needed.
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The adjustable cup would ideally be held in place by the left side of this tool (HCW-11)
But you can kinda fake it with a 12" Crescent wrench.
But you can kinda fake it with a 12" Crescent wrench.
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Yeah, it is hard telling from that the pic, but I think it's probably one of these Raleigh-style cups. They're really common on Wally World level bikes.
You hold the adjustable cup in place with the HC-11 pressed flat against the cup (the cutout holds the raised center ridge), while you tighten lockring with a lockring wrench.
You hold the adjustable cup in place with the HC-11 pressed flat against the cup (the cutout holds the raised center ridge), while you tighten lockring with a lockring wrench.
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Yeah, it is hard telling from that the pic, but I think it's probably one of these Raleigh-style cups. They're really common on Wally World level bikes.
You hold the adjustable cup in place with the HC-11 pressed flat against the cup (the cutout holds the raised center ridge), while you tighten lockring with a lockring wrench.
You hold the adjustable cup in place with the HC-11 pressed flat against the cup (the cutout holds the raised center ridge), while you tighten lockring with a lockring wrench.
This is definitely what I have on my bike so thanks for posting...sorry my initial photo was not great and boy, I need to clean this bike!
I do have some cheap Harbor Freight gear pullers and looked at using one of the smaller ones to pull the crank. Unfortunately, the center point is really pretty big but I think I can rig something up, even just put the hex screw back into the crank into the bb a little and use it to push against...
One last question, so the HCW-5 is the correct tool? Now I'm thinking I could use a large ratcheting wrench to pull it apart as more than likely, I think I'll just replace this setup w/ an inexpensive sealed unit...
Hopefully I can get the cranks off for starters...
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Most gear pullers totally suck for pulling cranks. I'd splurge on a $10 crank puller, arbor wedges or a pickle fork.
Oops, I guess they're $11
Universal Cycles -- Topeak Universal Crank Puller
If you're really averse to buying new tools, I'd skip the HCW5. Just use a crappy flat blade screwdriver and a hammer for the lockring. Use a crappy one cuz it'll sometimes ding the tip of the blade. This makes really dialing in the bearing adjustment a two person job (one with the crescent on the adjustable cup and another with the hammer and screwdriver on the lockring). This usually trashes lockrings after a couple of repacks, but they're cheap at coop style bike shops, maybe a buck. If you only repack every two years, you won't need a new lock ring for a while.
Oops, I guess they're $11
Universal Cycles -- Topeak Universal Crank Puller
If you're really averse to buying new tools, I'd skip the HCW5. Just use a crappy flat blade screwdriver and a hammer for the lockring. Use a crappy one cuz it'll sometimes ding the tip of the blade. This makes really dialing in the bearing adjustment a two person job (one with the crescent on the adjustable cup and another with the hammer and screwdriver on the lockring). This usually trashes lockrings after a couple of repacks, but they're cheap at coop style bike shops, maybe a buck. If you only repack every two years, you won't need a new lock ring for a while.
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 12-01-14 at 02:19 PM.
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Thank you for the advice! Glad to know I think I can do this w/out buying any new tools...
I actually already have a crank puller but the crank arm is kind of stripped so hence the search for another method to pull the cranks off...
I actually already have a crank puller but the crank arm is kind of stripped so hence the search for another method to pull the cranks off...
Most gear pullers totally suck for pulling cranks. I'd splurge on a $10 crank puller, arbor wedges or a pickle fork.
Oops, I guess they're $10
Universal Cycles -- Topeak Universal Crank Puller
If you're really averse to buying new tools, I'd skip the HCW5. Just use a crappy flat blade screwdriver and a hammer for the lockring. Use a crappy one cuz it'll sometimes ding the tip of the blade. This makes really dialing in the bearing adjustment a two person job (one with the crescent on the adjustable cup and another with the hammer and screwdriver on the lockring). This usually trashes lockrings after a couple of repacks, but they're cheap at coop style bike shops, maybe a buck. If you only repack every two years, you won't need a new lock ring for a while.
Oops, I guess they're $10
Universal Cycles -- Topeak Universal Crank Puller
If you're really averse to buying new tools, I'd skip the HCW5. Just use a crappy flat blade screwdriver and a hammer for the lockring. Use a crappy one cuz it'll sometimes ding the tip of the blade. This makes really dialing in the bearing adjustment a two person job (one with the crescent on the adjustable cup and another with the hammer and screwdriver on the lockring). This usually trashes lockrings after a couple of repacks, but they're cheap at coop style bike shops, maybe a buck. If you only repack every two years, you won't need a new lock ring for a while.
#13
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[QUOTE=LesterOfPuppets;17353229]Most gear pullers totally suck for pulling cranks. I'd splurge on a $10 crank puller, arbor wedges or a pickle fork.
Oops, I guess they're $10
Universal Cycles -- Topeak Universal Crank Puller
Crank puller! A must have tool if your gonna do your own bike maintaince.
While youre at it pick up some cone wrenches. Oh! And a spoke wrench! Don't forget that! might as well lube and true your wheels since you're getting your hands dirty. And a box of disposable latex gloves to keep your hands clean. You also should buy up a bike stand too. What else would a beginner need? Hmmm...
Oops, I guess they're $10
Universal Cycles -- Topeak Universal Crank Puller
Crank puller! A must have tool if your gonna do your own bike maintaince.
While youre at it pick up some cone wrenches. Oh! And a spoke wrench! Don't forget that! might as well lube and true your wheels since you're getting your hands dirty. And a box of disposable latex gloves to keep your hands clean. You also should buy up a bike stand too. What else would a beginner need? Hmmm...
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Off-size pickle fork from the pawn shop (used, in the $2 bin - best place to look for odd tools locally) actually worked best on one fairly beat up Iron Horse crank. Just got to have one close enough to the right size.
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Long term update on this task...
I ended up getting everything apart and was thrilled to insert the new Shimano sealed BB. However, it would not screw in all the way! Ended up taking the bike into my lbs and they cleaned up the threads with grease and a bottom bracket tool. Turns out I guess this isn't an uncommon problem.
Guess what? The bike still creaked! Turns out it was the cruddy freewheel that came w/ the bike! Changed it out for a Shimano freewheel and finally the bike drive train is completely silent and works well. I also replaced the stock rear derailleur w/ a Shimano Tourney and that made shifts much more responsive.
Not much left to upgrade on this "cheap" Wal Mart cruiser... Suppose I might have been better served by spending on a higher quality bike but it has been mostly fun upgrading it. I've always liked tinkering w/ bikes anyways...
I ended up getting everything apart and was thrilled to insert the new Shimano sealed BB. However, it would not screw in all the way! Ended up taking the bike into my lbs and they cleaned up the threads with grease and a bottom bracket tool. Turns out I guess this isn't an uncommon problem.
Guess what? The bike still creaked! Turns out it was the cruddy freewheel that came w/ the bike! Changed it out for a Shimano freewheel and finally the bike drive train is completely silent and works well. I also replaced the stock rear derailleur w/ a Shimano Tourney and that made shifts much more responsive.
Not much left to upgrade on this "cheap" Wal Mart cruiser... Suppose I might have been better served by spending on a higher quality bike but it has been mostly fun upgrading it. I've always liked tinkering w/ bikes anyways...
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Lovespicyfood: I tried to PM you but can't until after I make 50 posts. Can you tell me which Bottom Bracket you got for your Kent? I am trying to put together a critical spare parts inventory, Bottom Bracket, Bearings etc. Also the special tools needed. I live in a remote location and need to keep these parts on hand since bike is our only means of transportation. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
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Tools Needed
Lovespicyfood: I tried to PM you but can't until after I make 50 posts. Can you tell me which Bottom Bracket you got for your Kent? I am trying to put together a critical spare parts inventory, Bottom Bracket, Bearings etc. Also the special tools needed. I live in a remote location and need to keep these parts on hand since bike is our only means of transportation. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Can someone provide the actual tools needed (Part Numbers) so that I can order them.
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When I removed that exact BB from when i had a walmart bike all I used was a punch or a solid big flathead screwdriver, a adjustable wrench and a hammer thoes worked for everything from removing the crank arms to getting the BB shell out of the frame.
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There's a lot of bike butchers out there. No respect for tools.
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What are you talking about I diden't break or wreck anything. Everything after I was done was still 100% useable and except for one small dent on the inner rear part of the one crank arm no damage was done to anything. If you go about it a thoughtful way and don't just go in like a crazy man pounding away you can get it done with no real damage done to anything.
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What are you talking about I diden't break or wreck anything. Everything after I was done was still 100% useable and except for one small dent on the inner rear part of the one crank arm no damage was done to anything. If you go about it a thoughtful way and don't just go in like a crazy man pounding away you can get it done with no real damage done to anything.
I use chisels as chisels, not screw drivers as chisels.
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Yeah, I have a special pounding screwdriver. I also have a special pounding long socket extension. They don't work well for their original intended uses anymore, but they work great for their later acquired intended uses.
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Also thats why they make big flathead screwdrivers that are made for pretty much this exact reason. Before they made impact screwdriver sets there was the more manual version which had a steel butt end that was connected to the shank of the driver. And also pounding hardened steel against aluminum nothing is going to happen to the tool. And as ltxi just said being a walmart bike and parts being replaced with quality parts its not that big of deal. But when it comes to quality parts like when I got my Race Face crank I bought the proper tool to install and remove it.