le mans

not sure how old it is, possibly from the 80s

it says it's a 16 X 622 DIN 52 6 4 9 51 A made in holland

here's the problem...



rusted

ten small ball bearings are rusted too

i wonder if that area, dunno what's it called? [bearing housing], can be serviced? pulled out and another one pressed in
& dunno if bike shops supply those parts, yet. i usually source parts from scrap bikes, but don't have it.

i never come across this type of hub before, or the ball bearing tension nut

the other side is ok..

hueyhoolihan

it's possible that all it needs is to be greased and reassembled with possibly new ball bearings. in any case, i would try that and see if it suffices.

HillRider

The rusty part in the hub is the "bearing race" and the tapered part still attached to the axle is the "cone". They trap the loose balls between them to form a bearing on each side of the hub. That one looks pretty bad but you might be able to salvage it with something like a Scotchbrite pad to scrub the rust from the races and cones and reassemble it with new balls (probably 10 x 3/16" balls on each side) and fresh grease. It won't be perfect but might be usable for a while.

The "16 x 622" refers to the rim, not the hub. It's a 700c rim 16 mm wide and accepts most road width 700c tires. I assume the rest of the numbers are a part or serial number.

le mans

thought of that, and might settle with a new set of ball bearings. i tried to rub the blemishes off with steel wool and a wire brush coz it's not exactly smooth in there.

i think i'd like it replaced tho, because it's for a personal bike, was going to use them for a raleigh flyer but want to upgrade my mistral using that wheel set.

le mans

yes i knew that! just wrote it down in-case someone is familar with the wheel and hub type

it's called cone and bearing race?! thx mate

Andrew R Stewart 

I'd just lightly sand the hub cup/ball track, axle cone with fine emery cloth then follow up with fine steel wool. Clean all remaining grit off and reassemble with fresh balls and grease. Then after a while (a few hundred miles or so) do another overhaul with fresh balls and lube. I see this often enough at work and don't have issues with saving/reusing the wheel and axle/cones. Now if the rim and/or spokes are also in bad shape... Andy.

le mans

good idea, i have various grades of sand paper, but it's not easy to get to, there's a lip ring in front of it, the face, can be seen in the photo - which differs to what i usually see

the wheels are in great condition

they were off a raleigh jaguar that was hardly used. looks likes by the condition of the whole bike he rode it for a while and just stuck in the shed

the wheels spin true

le mans

ended up using an accessory from a dremel tool, a small grind stone, small enough to get in there, rub it around by hand & she come up sweet. spins nice now.

thx for the idea to use something coarse, andrew

Andrew R Stewart 

When I first began to read your post #8 I started to say "NNOOOO!!!". But quickly realized that the stone wasn't still attached to the Dremel and therefore wasn't spinning at 30,000rpm. Glad it went well. Andy.

FBinNY 

Next time, you don't have to make the effort. Ball bearings are sort like railroad tracks when it comes to rust. Just as regular trains keep the rails polished, the balls will polish their own tracks, and as long as the bearing is moving no serious rust will develop where it matters (the contact track). By the same token, of you simply grease and repack a resty bearing, the rolling blls will polish it out in no time.

Andrew R Stewart 

Agreed, but a little more work the rust that's not in the ball track can also be largely removed easily and cheaply. Even still note that I suggested that the freshened up hub be re overhauled after a few hundred miles to further reduce the old rust from being a problem (As well as encourage periodic servicing). Andy.