Drewed 1" Threaded Fork: Crown race measures 26.1-26.2 mm
01-21-15, 07:26 PM
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Drewed 1" Threaded Fork: Crown race measures 26.1-26.2 mm
Must have previously been a 27.0 crown race, otherwise I don't know why they would have filed it. Considering having a skilled local builder braze a ring onto the crown and fill it in. This impresses me as the most cost effective solution over sourcing a fork with the right specs (1" threaded, canti studs, eyelets). Anyone else had this done with successful results?
01-21-15, 10:15 PM
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there are a number of crown race IDs used over the years, IME, the smallest popular one is for a BMX. the previous owner may have had a bmx headset crown race and wanted to use it. good luck.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 01-21-15 at 10:19 PM.
01-28-15, 12:54 PM
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For those who experience this issue in the future you can take a punch and a hammer and deform the crown race in either 4 or 8 locations to accept a 26.4 mm crown race. A li'l loctite helps too. According to my friend there's a term for this procedure, but he can't recall.
01-28-15, 09:32 PM
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For those who experience this issue in the future you can take a punch and a hammer and deform the crown race in either 4 or 8 locations to accept a 26.4 mm crown race. A li'l loctite helps too. According to my friend there's a term for this procedure, but he can't recall.
01-28-15, 10:10 PM
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An old timers trick will solve this with no heroics.
You'll need a V-block, or vise, centerpunch and hammer.
Properly cradle the fork steerer so the crown seat are is properly braced to take series of shots. Use the hammer to centerpunch the crown seat and raise a "volcano cone" Do this all the way around about every 4-5mm or so. Try to do it as evenly as possible, but if you like you can zig zag the locations up and down a bit. When finished, drop on the race, and it should rest on the raised cones. If not repeat the process putting the punch into each dimple and raising it higher.
Once the cones are high enough, press on the race and you'll have a tight fit. This is fine for most road bike applications, but over time, wear and tear may mash the cones down again.
So I like to use body filler (type barely matters) to support the race better. I trowel it on generously, allow it to set firm, but not hard. Press a greased crown down and let it shave excess off as it goes. When near bottom, stop, and use a knife edge to clear excess from under the race, them press home and leave it there. Allowing double the rated curing time before riding.
Done decently the repair will outlast the bike.
You'll need a V-block, or vise, centerpunch and hammer.
Properly cradle the fork steerer so the crown seat are is properly braced to take series of shots. Use the hammer to centerpunch the crown seat and raise a "volcano cone" Do this all the way around about every 4-5mm or so. Try to do it as evenly as possible, but if you like you can zig zag the locations up and down a bit. When finished, drop on the race, and it should rest on the raised cones. If not repeat the process putting the punch into each dimple and raising it higher.
Once the cones are high enough, press on the race and you'll have a tight fit. This is fine for most road bike applications, but over time, wear and tear may mash the cones down again.
So I like to use body filler (type barely matters) to support the race better. I trowel it on generously, allow it to set firm, but not hard. Press a greased crown down and let it shave excess off as it goes. When near bottom, stop, and use a knife edge to clear excess from under the race, them press home and leave it there. Allowing double the rated curing time before riding.
Done decently the repair will outlast the bike.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
