Rear Record Hub Overhaul Issue
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Rear Record Hub Overhaul Issue
Hey everyone. So, I finished overhauling my Record hubs last night (new bearings, grease etc) and the rear hub is for some reason not super smooth like the front hub. The front hub is smoooooth like butter but the rear one feels gritty and/or course somewhat. It doesn't feel normal for any hub let alone a Record hub. Seems like too much resistance. Could it be viscous drag? Grease is too thick? The solution might be super simple but I don't know what it is. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Last edited by zeego; 01-28-15 at 02:19 PM.
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i would take apart and reassemble at least eight or ten times before i admitted to strangers that i had probably put it together wrong, or something equally embarrassing. maybe you have done that already. IDK.
anyway, how does it compare to how it felt before the rebuild?
and yes, too much cold grease that gets between the axle and the hub shell can slow things down a bit. not a bad idea to take it out for a few miles and see what's what. i think i've had occasion to remove grease after if "fixed" the hub a time or two.
anyway, how does it compare to how it felt before the rebuild?
and yes, too much cold grease that gets between the axle and the hub shell can slow things down a bit. not a bad idea to take it out for a few miles and see what's what. i think i've had occasion to remove grease after if "fixed" the hub a time or two.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 01-28-15 at 02:28 PM.
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For the moment I'll assume you used the right number of the right size bearing balls (15x5/32" in plastic retainers on each side, IIRC) and installed the retainers facing the correct way and that nothing slipped out of position as you installed everything. If that isn't
a certainty, open it up and check. Did you remove the freehub body? Did you reinstall it properly?
If it's assembled correctly did you tighten the adjusting cone correctly and lock down the pinch bolt with the 2.5 mm allen key after getting the adjustment right? These aren't like Shimano hubs. You do the final adjustment with the wheel installed in the frame and the qr skewer fully tightened. Tap on the adjustment side of the hub to assure the bearings are full seated and tighten the adjusting cone until the play at the rim JUST disappears, then snug down the pinch bolt being careful not to rotate the cone either way while you are tightening it.
Finally, if you greased the bearing balls and races heavily, there will be some drag until the excess grease is forced out and/or redistributed inside the hub.
a certainty, open it up and check. Did you remove the freehub body? Did you reinstall it properly?
If it's assembled correctly did you tighten the adjusting cone correctly and lock down the pinch bolt with the 2.5 mm allen key after getting the adjustment right? These aren't like Shimano hubs. You do the final adjustment with the wheel installed in the frame and the qr skewer fully tightened. Tap on the adjustment side of the hub to assure the bearings are full seated and tighten the adjusting cone until the play at the rim JUST disappears, then snug down the pinch bolt being careful not to rotate the cone either way while you are tightening it.
Finally, if you greased the bearing balls and races heavily, there will be some drag until the excess grease is forced out and/or redistributed inside the hub.
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For the moment I'll assume you used the right number of the right size bearing balls (15x5/32" in plastic retainers on each side, IIRC) and installed the retainers facing the correct way and that nothing slipped out of position as you installed everything. If that isn't
a certainty, open it up and check. Did you remove the freehub body? Did you reinstall it properly?
If it's assembled correctly did you tighten the adjusting cone correctly and lock down the pinch bolt with the 2.5 mm allen key after getting the adjustment right? These aren't like Shimano hubs. You do the final adjustment with the wheel installed in the frame and the qr skewer fully tightened. Tap on the adjustment side of the hub to assure the bearings are full seated and tighten the adjusting cone until the play at the rim JUST disappears, then snug down the pinch bolt being careful not to rotate the cone either way while you are tightening it.
Finally, if you greased the bearing balls and races heavily, there will be some drag until the excess grease is forced out and/or redistributed inside the hub.
a certainty, open it up and check. Did you remove the freehub body? Did you reinstall it properly?
If it's assembled correctly did you tighten the adjusting cone correctly and lock down the pinch bolt with the 2.5 mm allen key after getting the adjustment right? These aren't like Shimano hubs. You do the final adjustment with the wheel installed in the frame and the qr skewer fully tightened. Tap on the adjustment side of the hub to assure the bearings are full seated and tighten the adjusting cone until the play at the rim JUST disappears, then snug down the pinch bolt being careful not to rotate the cone either way while you are tightening it.
Finally, if you greased the bearing balls and races heavily, there will be some drag until the excess grease is forced out and/or redistributed inside the hub.
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Funny that you posted this because I just pulled my Record 10spd hub apart to overhaul.
You mentioned that your hub feels gritty...if this is the case and you have not tightened the adjusting cone too tight then take it apart and check that you inserted the ball bearing retainers in the correct orientation. It is easy to get confused about the orientation and insert them backwards.
The rear hub should be just as buttery smooth as the front hub. As mentioned by others, the final adjustment to the adjusting cone is made with the wheel mounted on the bike. Set them up so they feel like your front hub and send them off to your wheel builder and do the final adjustment when you have a complete wheel as you use the rim to sense if there any play in the hub as the play will be amplified at the rim.
-j
You mentioned that your hub feels gritty...if this is the case and you have not tightened the adjusting cone too tight then take it apart and check that you inserted the ball bearing retainers in the correct orientation. It is easy to get confused about the orientation and insert them backwards.
The rear hub should be just as buttery smooth as the front hub. As mentioned by others, the final adjustment to the adjusting cone is made with the wheel mounted on the bike. Set them up so they feel like your front hub and send them off to your wheel builder and do the final adjustment when you have a complete wheel as you use the rim to sense if there any play in the hub as the play will be amplified at the rim.
-j
Last edited by Greenfieldja; 01-28-15 at 04:48 PM.
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One of my favorite features of the design of these hubs is that the cassette body can be removed entirely from the right without affecting the hub bearings. So before looking at what may or may not be an issue, hold the axle, loosen the right side locknut (LH thread) and slide off the freehub body.
Now check the bearing without having anything else there that might confuse things.
Now check the bearing without having anything else there that might confuse things.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Also, if you find you need to open and inspect the orientation of the bearing retainers...think of them as a crown with the balls sitting on top...for both retainers the bottom of the crown will face towards the center of the hub.
-j
-j