Question about filing fork dropout
02-03-15, 11:58 AM
#1
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Question about filing fork dropout
Picked up a 1970' low-end Bridgestone and am converting it to SS. The fork dropouts will not accept the diameter of the axle of a modern wheel (and consequently won't fit on my car's fork mount as well). My question is: When filing the dropouts, do I need to file the top curved section of the dropout as well, as pictured below?
02-03-15, 12:11 PM
#2
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doesnt even seem to be well brazed in.. frame shop can pull it out and put another in
Measure ... how big is the dropout slot? 9mm is normal how much more you need?
A solid axle front wheel hub may fit fine .. the square hole is for a safety washer under the nut so wheel wont fall out even if nut not very tight.
car rack fork mount can be filed oval flat a bit too..
Measure ... how big is the dropout slot? 9mm is normal how much more you need?
A solid axle front wheel hub may fit fine .. the square hole is for a safety washer under the nut so wheel wont fall out even if nut not very tight.
car rack fork mount can be filed oval flat a bit too..
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-03-15 at 12:15 PM.
02-03-15, 12:46 PM
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Are you sure it's not bent? I'd have a hard time imagining that car rack fork mounts are for 10 mm only, but maybe I'm just behind the times.
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02-03-15, 12:47 PM
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The dropout was just over 8mm; I filed it out and now the axle fits. However, I accidentally filed part of the top portion on the drive side. Should I even it out?
I guess if I royally messed it up, I can take it to a frame shop for new dropouts, but the frame probably isn't worth that kind of money lol.
I guess if I royally messed it up, I can take it to a frame shop for new dropouts, but the frame probably isn't worth that kind of money lol.
02-03-15, 01:20 PM
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File the top of the nds dropout only if needed to make the wheel sit evenly in the fork.
02-03-15, 02:59 PM
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Looking at the bottom picture, that's farthest up the dropout the drive side goes while NDS (first pic) has the axle sitting at the very top of the dropout (first pic). Of course, the bike was inverted when those pics were taken.
02-03-15, 03:37 PM
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This is why, when filing dropouts, I arrange the frame so that I can file DOWNWARD and am unlikely to remove material from any other side. 
02-03-15, 04:08 PM
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The axle 100% has to sit at the top of the notches on both sides.
Make sure that your wheel isn't dished (flip both ways).
Then file down so you have a nice round profile on the top of each axle.
If you have it loose on one side, undoubtedly the axle will shift in the dropouts, and it will be a pain to get aligned right when mounting.
Are you using a round file?
Make sure that your wheel isn't dished (flip both ways).
Then file down so you have a nice round profile on the top of each axle.
If you have it loose on one side, undoubtedly the axle will shift in the dropouts, and it will be a pain to get aligned right when mounting.
Are you using a round file?
02-03-15, 05:02 PM
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Sorry if this is a dup, I didn't read the blow by blow.
It's probably too late, but be sure to only file one side of the slot, so the wheel can use the original face as the reference, and sit squarely in the dropout. You don't want to file the top since that's the other critical reference, but need to file the sides of the top to open up the radius to match the axle (or larger) so the wheel sits against the top, and isn't jammed against the "V-block" caused by the smaller radius.
If you've already messed that up, you can file the top so the wheel centers in the fork properly. But don't be like that guy that tries to get the dining room table to stop rocking, and ends up with a coffee table.
It's probably too late, but be sure to only file one side of the slot, so the wheel can use the original face as the reference, and sit squarely in the dropout. You don't want to file the top since that's the other critical reference, but need to file the sides of the top to open up the radius to match the axle (or larger) so the wheel sits against the top, and isn't jammed against the "V-block" caused by the smaller radius.
If you've already messed that up, you can file the top so the wheel centers in the fork properly. But don't be like that guy that tries to get the dining room table to stop rocking, and ends up with a coffee table.
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02-03-15, 07:48 PM
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The axle 100% has to sit at the top of the notches on both sides.
Make sure that your wheel isn't dished (flip both ways).
Then file down so you have a nice round profile on the top of each axle.
If you have it loose on one side, undoubtedly the axle will shift in the dropouts, and it will be a pain to get aligned right when mounting.
Are you using a round file?
Make sure that your wheel isn't dished (flip both ways).
Then file down so you have a nice round profile on the top of each axle.
If you have it loose on one side, undoubtedly the axle will shift in the dropouts, and it will be a pain to get aligned right when mounting.
Are you using a round file?
Sorry if this is a dup, I didn't read the blow by blow.
It's probably too late, but be sure to only file one side of the slot, so the wheel can use the original face as the reference, and sit squarely in the dropout. You don't want to file the top since that's the other critical reference, but need to file the sides of the top to open up the radius to match the axle (or larger) so the wheel sits against the top, and isn't jammed against the "V-block" caused by the smaller radius.
If you've already messed that up, you can file the top so the wheel centers in the fork properly. But don't be like that guy that tries to get the dining room table to stop rocking, and ends up with a coffee table.
It's probably too late, but be sure to only file one side of the slot, so the wheel can use the original face as the reference, and sit squarely in the dropout. You don't want to file the top since that's the other critical reference, but need to file the sides of the top to open up the radius to match the axle (or larger) so the wheel sits against the top, and isn't jammed against the "V-block" caused by the smaller radius.
If you've already messed that up, you can file the top so the wheel centers in the fork properly. But don't be like that guy that tries to get the dining room table to stop rocking, and ends up with a coffee table.
Thanks, all. I'll finish it off tomorrow. I was using a half round file (flat side), and a round file.
02-04-15, 10:38 AM
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Could have reduced the axle thread ends , the part past the locknuts can be made a bit smaller .0.5mm
02-04-15, 10:38 AM
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A rose by any other name.....
Call it what you will, dropout, fork end, tip, or whatever. There's a flat part with a slow where the wheel mounts. I don't have a problem calling it the dropout, but I'm open to any other name.
click image to enlarge
Call it what you will, dropout, fork end, tip, or whatever. There's a flat part with a slow where the wheel mounts. I don't have a problem calling it the dropout, but I'm open to any other name.
click image to enlarge
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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02-04-15, 11:50 AM
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An interesting distinction. You haven't mentioned what you call front "dropouts".
In any case, you might refer to this NOVA Cycles page of dropout options, including fronts and rears.
In any case, you might refer to this NOVA Cycles page of dropout options, including fronts and rears.
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02-04-15, 12:35 PM
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They are also misusing the term.
A fork end is a slot in a bicycle frame or bicycle fork where the axle of a bicycle wheel is attached. A dropout is a type of fork end that allows the rear wheel to be removed without first derailing the chain.
A fork end is a slot in a bicycle frame or bicycle fork where the axle of a bicycle wheel is attached. A dropout is a type of fork end that allows the rear wheel to be removed without first derailing the chain.
02-04-15, 12:37 PM
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BTW- many still call rear track ends "dropouts" as evidenced here. Since your definition would exclude this design, it's another place where you're right and the rest of the world wrong.
For my part, I'm happy to call any slotted end where wheels slide into and mount to the frame a dropout. Even that can be limiting, since it leaves fork ends for through axles out. Going forward, I might have to broaden my definition to include those by removing slotted and slide, and simply define dropout as the wheel mounting interface on the frame.
In any case, words and their meanings evolve, as do the things they describe. Merchants still ring up sales even though modern cash registers and POS systems don't have bells anymore.
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FB
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-04-15 at 12:45 PM.
02-04-15, 12:51 PM
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Have it your way. I'll wait for the published version of your dictionary. In the meantime, I find it easier to speak of front and rear dropouts vs. having to call them two different things.
BTW- many still call rear track ends "dropouts" as evidenced here. Since your definition would exclude this design, it's another place where you're right and the rest of the world wrong.
For my part, I'm happy to call any slotted end where wheels slide into and mount to the frame a dropout. Even that can be limiting, since it leaves fork ends for through axles out. Going forward, I might have to broaden my definition to include those by removing slotted and slide, and simply define dropout as the wheel mounting interface on the frame.
BTW- many still call rear track ends "dropouts" as evidenced here. Since your definition would exclude this design, it's another place where you're right and the rest of the world wrong.
For my part, I'm happy to call any slotted end where wheels slide into and mount to the frame a dropout. Even that can be limiting, since it leaves fork ends for through axles out. Going forward, I might have to broaden my definition to include those by removing slotted and slide, and simply define dropout as the wheel mounting interface on the frame.
Ben
02-04-15, 01:03 PM
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llyrictenor1, be sure your wheel is true and has no dish before you use it to check your work. (Since I'll bet you did not check the fork with a known good wheel before you started, it is possible you did no harm filing the top of the dropout. I picked up a bike of roughly that age where the wheel sat about 1/2 a cm off to the left. Took real filing of the left fork to get it to sit straight.)
Ben
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02-04-15, 01:18 PM
#24
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So, lift a bike fork with a loose enough front hub nuts off the ground and the wheel will definitely Drop Out.
... didn't finish High School ? thats a drop out too
... didn't finish High School ? thats a drop out too
02-04-15, 01:37 PM
#25
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1. A fork for a vehicle, comprising: a first substantially closed-bore dropout defining a first cavity; a second substantially closed-bore dropout defining a second cavity; an axle assembly having a first end and a second end, wherein the second end is threaded, and wherein the second end of the axle assembly is configured to pass through the first cavity and enter the second cavity; a rotatable fastener capable of mating with the threaded second end of the axle assembly; a retainer within the second cavity and capable of axially retaining the rotatable fastener, allowing the rotatable fastener to rotate, and restricting axial movement of the rotatable fastener in a first axial direction.