What to do...lower headtube cup damage
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What to do...lower headtube cup damage
I picked up a fixed gear off CL, but something felt a little off in the headset. As I took it apart, it looks like the bearing cage wasn't seated properly and damaged the lower headtube cup/race and fork.
How much worse can something like this get? Should I go through the process of replacing the lower headset race or just repack and ride? Thanks
How much worse can something like this get? Should I go through the process of replacing the lower headset race or just repack and ride? Thanks
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A replacement headset should be inexpensive. I'd just replace it while it's apart, rather than reassemble it and find out I need to take it apart again to replace.
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Yeah, you're probably right. I'll have to check for replacement costs and go from there.
I wasn't sure if the groove in the fork would reduce the benefit of swapping that out. Do you think the bearings would seat like normal if I replaced the headset? Thanks
I wasn't sure if the groove in the fork would reduce the benefit of swapping that out. Do you think the bearings would seat like normal if I replaced the headset? Thanks
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if i were concerned about cost i would just reassemble it properly and test it. what's to lose? assuming all the parts are there.
if the cages are destroyed you can buy new headset bearings in cages at your LBS or just discard the cages all together and buy individual ball bearings (put in as many as you can then remove one) at the LBS or local hardware store. always take the old parts with you when shopping.
on second look, the steerer might be damaged. would help to see it without the crown race on there.
if the cages are destroyed you can buy new headset bearings in cages at your LBS or just discard the cages all together and buy individual ball bearings (put in as many as you can then remove one) at the LBS or local hardware store. always take the old parts with you when shopping.
on second look, the steerer might be damaged. would help to see it without the crown race on there.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 02-09-15 at 01:31 AM.
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I can't tell much from the photos, though it looks like the ball track is OK. I see some damage, but not in the ball track, it would be nice to see the upper races for comparison, but from what I see, the damage seems to be in a non critical area.
I'd reassemble using the upper retainer below since that's the more critical bearing. Make sure it's in right side up. Grease, assemble and adjust, and ride. If you can adjust it and it rides OK, then it is, and you can continue riding un til you have a reason to check the headset fresh.
BTW- if you have them, you can try your luck with loose balls rather than the retainer.
I'd reassemble using the upper retainer below since that's the more critical bearing. Make sure it's in right side up. Grease, assemble and adjust, and ride. If you can adjust it and it rides OK, then it is, and you can continue riding un til you have a reason to check the headset fresh.
BTW- if you have them, you can try your luck with loose balls rather than the retainer.
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if i were concerned about cost i would just reassemble it properly and test it. what's to lose? assuming all the parts are there.
if the cages are destroyed you can buy new headset bearings in cages at your LBS or just discard the cages all together and buy individual ball bearings (put in as many as you can then remove one) at the LBS or local hardware store. always take the old parts with you when shopping.
if the cages are destroyed you can buy new headset bearings in cages at your LBS or just discard the cages all together and buy individual ball bearings (put in as many as you can then remove one) at the LBS or local hardware store. always take the old parts with you when shopping.
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I can't tell much from the photos, though it looks like the ball track is OK. I see some damage, but not in the ball track, it would be nice to see the upper races for comparison, but from what I see, the damage seems to be in a non critical area.
I'd reassemble using the upper retainer below since that's the more critical bearing. Make sure it's in right side up. Grease, assemble and adjust, and ride. If you can adjust it and it rides OK, then it is, and you can continue riding un til you have a reason to check the headset fresh.
BTW- if you have them, you can try your luck with loose balls rather than the retainer.
I'd reassemble using the upper retainer below since that's the more critical bearing. Make sure it's in right side up. Grease, assemble and adjust, and ride. If you can adjust it and it rides OK, then it is, and you can continue riding un til you have a reason to check the headset fresh.
BTW- if you have them, you can try your luck with loose balls rather than the retainer.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try that when I reassemble and see how it goes.
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Where there there any ball bearings in lower cup when you took it apart? The fact that somehow a new bearing surfaced was formed also makes it looks like it was run without ball bearings for a while, or perhaps a mismatch between the cup and the fork crown. My guess is a little work with a file and some new bearings would do the trick.
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Where there there any ball bearings in lower cup when you took it apart? The fact that somehow a new bearing surfaced was formed also makes it looks like it was run without ball bearings for a while, or perhaps a mismatch between the cup and the fork crown. My guess is a little work with a file and some new bearings would do the trick.
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...
...I've never seen a headset tube race constructed like the one you picture, which appears to be of two parts. Is this some sort of newer, straight from China fixed gear ?
If that is the case, your best bet when something goes bad (and stuff will go bad), is to replace the part with something better designed and manufactured.
...I've never seen a headset tube race constructed like the one you picture, which appears to be of two parts. Is this some sort of newer, straight from China fixed gear ?
If that is the case, your best bet when something goes bad (and stuff will go bad), is to replace the part with something better designed and manufactured.
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Yes, there was a full cage of bearings, which actually look reusable. I'll consider using a file and adjusting based on what I find when I reassemble. Appreciate the ideas...considering other things I've found on the bike, I should also consider that maybe it was mismatched.
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...
...I've never seen a headset tube race constructed like the one you picture, which appears to be of two parts. Is this some sort of newer, straight from China fixed gear ?
If that is the case, your best bet when something goes bad (and stuff will go bad), is to replace the part with something better designed and manufactured.
...I've never seen a headset tube race constructed like the one you picture, which appears to be of two parts. Is this some sort of newer, straight from China fixed gear ?
If that is the case, your best bet when something goes bad (and stuff will go bad), is to replace the part with something better designed and manufactured.
@onespeedbiker Could be the case...I don't remember checking that when I pulled it out, so maybe. The groove that takes off the inner part of the cup is smooth and distinct, so my guess is that it was not seated properly. Maybe upside down, too.
Also, if anyone wants to see the top cup, here are a couple pics. To compare, on the lower cup pictures from before, the damage is to the inner "ring" of the cup.
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@3alarmer It's a 2010 Sputnik (Jamis) that was set up on the fixed gear side of its flip flop hub. The headset is original from what I can tell. I've only worked on bikes that I've owned for the most part (limited), but the ones I've seen have been built similarly. The assembly is like the one about two-thirds down the page here: Servicing Bicycle Headsets In my pics of the fork, the crown race is still on the fork, for reference. I hear you on the benefits of replacement. I think I'm leaning towards replacing the headset because the frame and fork is what interested me most, and pushed me to buy the bike anyways.
@onespeedbiker Could be the case...I don't remember checking that when I pulled it out, so maybe. The groove that takes off the inner part of the cup is smooth and distinct, so my guess is that it was not seated properly. Maybe upside down, too.
Also, if anyone wants to see the top cup, here are a couple pics. To compare, on the lower cup pictures from before, the damage is to the inner "ring" of the cup.
@onespeedbiker Could be the case...I don't remember checking that when I pulled it out, so maybe. The groove that takes off the inner part of the cup is smooth and distinct, so my guess is that it was not seated properly. Maybe upside down, too.
Also, if anyone wants to see the top cup, here are a couple pics. To compare, on the lower cup pictures from before, the damage is to the inner "ring" of the cup.
...OK, thx, I see the difference in terms of where your original race shows wear on the anodizing. You've already done almost half of the work to replace it, and that's what I would do. You can buy some pretty good headsets for not a whole lot of money on Amazon these days. And yours looks to be pretty standard in terms of dimensions.
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Looks to me like it wore a groove in the steerer tube all the way around, just above the lower crown race. If that's the case, I'd be worrying that the steerer tube could snap off right there at the groove.
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@onespeedbiker here are some pics of both bearing cages. I believe the one on the right are from the top.
@3alarmer After cleaning things up a bit more and listening to feedback here and at a couple LBSs, I think I am going to end up swapping out the headset. Part of the reason is because of what CroMo Mike brings up. I did ask about safety at the LBSs, and they thought it would be fine, but also, I don't want the damage to get worse on the stem. I brought home a headset that has a crown race that would go above where the groove is, so I hope that helps give some reinforcement as well.
Still thinking this through, but leaning towards replacement.
@3alarmer After cleaning things up a bit more and listening to feedback here and at a couple LBSs, I think I am going to end up swapping out the headset. Part of the reason is because of what CroMo Mike brings up. I did ask about safety at the LBSs, and they thought it would be fine, but also, I don't want the damage to get worse on the stem. I brought home a headset that has a crown race that would go above where the groove is, so I hope that helps give some reinforcement as well.
Still thinking this through, but leaning towards replacement.
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@onespeedbiker here are some pics of both bearing cages. I believe the one on the right are from the top.
@3alarmer After cleaning things up a bit more and listening to feedback here and at a couple LBSs, I think I am going to end up swapping out the headset. Part of the reason is because of what CroMo Mike brings up. I did ask about safety at the LBSs, and they thought it would be fine, but also, I don't want the damage to get worse on the stem. I brought home a headset that has a crown race that would go above where the groove is, so I hope that helps give some reinforcement as well.
Still thinking this through, but leaning towards replacement.
@3alarmer After cleaning things up a bit more and listening to feedback here and at a couple LBSs, I think I am going to end up swapping out the headset. Part of the reason is because of what CroMo Mike brings up. I did ask about safety at the LBSs, and they thought it would be fine, but also, I don't want the damage to get worse on the stem. I brought home a headset that has a crown race that would go above where the groove is, so I hope that helps give some reinforcement as well.
Still thinking this through, but leaning towards replacement.
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on second look, i think you are right. could help to see it without the crown race.
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The more I look at this, I almost sure the damage was done by a lower cage bearing installed upside down.
I found this link that shows similar damage (but certainly not brinelling). Tamia Nelson's Outside » Heading Off Headset Problems The crown race on your bike also seems to have a notched interface that I have never seen before
I found this link that shows similar damage (but certainly not brinelling). Tamia Nelson's Outside » Heading Off Headset Problems The crown race on your bike also seems to have a notched interface that I have never seen before
Last edited by onespeedbiker; 02-09-15 at 12:41 PM.
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@onespeedbiker @hueyhoolihan Sorry, I didn't see these replies earlier. I would have taken another picture with the bearings on the old race, as well as the stem out the race, but I decided to swap the headset out and already installed the new crown race...pic below. There wasn't any damage beyond what can be seen in the other pic...the stem was clean underneath the crown race, for whatever that's worth. That's an interesting link, onespeedbiker. Thanks. The damage does look very similar. Bummer.
@italktocats @cale @CroMo Mike would you not ride on this stem based on the pic? Based on what I saw and what the LBSs said when they looked at it, I felt reasonably comfortable, but you guys have me a bit concerned. I've never had something like that happen. If it were to fail would it (generally) be a catastrophic failure...like all at once? To be honest, as far as I have come with this bike, I think I'm going to try it out, but appreciate your feedback and any experiences.
@italktocats @cale @CroMo Mike would you not ride on this stem based on the pic? Based on what I saw and what the LBSs said when they looked at it, I felt reasonably comfortable, but you guys have me a bit concerned. I've never had something like that happen. If it were to fail would it (generally) be a catastrophic failure...like all at once? To be honest, as far as I have come with this bike, I think I'm going to try it out, but appreciate your feedback and any experiences.
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The greatest stress on the steerer is below the crown race, which provides support and becomes the fulcrum for bending moments. There is reaction stress above the steerer, (just as in there is stress on both sides of a seesaw), but it diminishes as you move from the crown. Also note that steel steerers are significantly overbuilt with wall thicknesses of about 1/8" for the lower 2" or so.
Failure in quality steel steerers is just about unheard of, and failure above the crown race, rarer yet. IMO, if you continue to ride this fork, mounting a lightning rod and ground strap to your bike, since the odds of being struck by lightning are worse than those of this fork failing.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-09-15 at 01:50 PM.
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I would have no (zero, nada) qualms about riding this fork. There appears to be no material wear or scoring of the steerer, just a bit of buffing where it apparently rubbed on the ID of the pressed in section of the lower cup.
The greatest stress on the steerer is below the crown race, which provides support and becomes the fulcrum for bending moments. There is reaction stress above the steerer, (just as in there is stress on both sides of a seesaw), but it diminishes as you move from the crown. Also note that steel steerers are significantly overbuilt with wall thicknesses of about 1/8" for the lower 2" or so.
Failure in quality steel steerers is just about unheard of, and failure above the crown race, rarer yet. IMO, if you continue to ride this fork, mounting a lightning rod and ground strap to your bike, since the odds of being struck by lightning are worse than those of this fork failing.
The greatest stress on the steerer is below the crown race, which provides support and becomes the fulcrum for bending moments. There is reaction stress above the steerer, (just as in there is stress on both sides of a seesaw), but it diminishes as you move from the crown. Also note that steel steerers are significantly overbuilt with wall thicknesses of about 1/8" for the lower 2" or so.
Failure in quality steel steerers is just about unheard of, and failure above the crown race, rarer yet. IMO, if you continue to ride this fork, mounting a lightning rod and ground strap to your bike, since the odds of being struck by lightning are worse than those of this fork failing.
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... would you not ride on this stem based on the pic? Based on what I saw and what the LBSs said when they looked at it, I felt reasonably comfortable, but you guys have me a bit concerned. I've never had something like that happen. If it were to fail would it (generally) be a catastrophic failure...like all at once? To be honest, as far as I have come with this bike, I think I'm going to try it out, but appreciate your feedback and any experiences.