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Finally seting up a shop in the garage and looking for wall organizers

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Old 03-02-15, 10:00 PM
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Here's a shot of my, as of today, well lit new shop. There are more over in the framebuilders "room" use this link:
https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuild...nce-again.html Andy.
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Old 03-02-15, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Here's a shot of my, as of today, well lit new shop. There are more over in the framebuilders "room" use this link:
https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuild...nce-again.html Andy.
All those cone wrenches reminds me. I needed on yesterday for a neighbors bike, and the ones I had were too small. I have the standard 15, 17 ect., but needed probably a 21. I was hoping to find something like an "adjustable" cone wrench on my hunt, today. Of course, I had no luck because they don't exist. Someone should make slip joint cone pliers. I bet they would sell. You probably could not torque them very much, but that should not be necessary considering the applications. I was thinking about filing/grinding down an old pair of of channel locks, but in talking with someone familiar with metallurgy it'd have to be done in stages so as to re-temper the metal back to it's original strength.
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Old 03-02-15, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandrada
All those cone wrenches reminds me. I needed on yesterday for a neighbors bike, and the ones I had were too small. I have the standard 15, 17 ect., but needed probably a 21. I was hoping to find something like an "adjustable" cone wrench on my hunt, today. Of course, I had no luck because they don't exist. Someone should make slip joint cone pliers. I bet they would sell. You probably could not torque them very much, but that should not be necessary considering the applications. I was thinking about filing/grinding down an old pair of of channel locks, but in talking with someone familiar with metallurgy it'd have to be done in stages so as to re-temper the metal back to it's original strength.
I've made odd sized cone wrenches with some steel sheet and a hacksaw. One was for an old Bendix coaster hub IIRC. They don't end up looking like wrenches -- too much work -- but seem to suffice for typical home shop usage.
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Old 03-02-15, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
I've made odd sized cone wrenches with some steel sheet and a hacksaw. One was for an old Bendix coaster hub IIRC. They don't end up looking like wrenches -- too much work -- but seem to suffice for typical home shop usage.
Seems like a lot of work if you had to make a "set." Wouldn't it be nice to have thin walled lock jaw pliers? I know the average bike mechanic turns their nose up at anything less than precision tooling, and in most cases they would be correct, but in many situation with cone wrenches all you need is a little "bite."
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Old 03-03-15, 08:59 AM
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Need an apprentice? Thanks for the series.
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Old 03-03-15, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandrada
Seems like a lot of work if you had to make a "set." Wouldn't it be nice to have thin walled lock jaw pliers? I know the average bike mechanic turns their nose up at anything less than precision tooling, and in most cases they would be correct, but in many situation with cone wrenches all you need is a little "bite."
Actually the forces on axle lock nuts while wrenching them can be quite high. Witness the many worn out cone wrenches hanging on shop tool boards. This is one reason that the double sized cone wrenches (with a stepped opening to fit two different sizes) are only found on recreationly used tools. They don't stand up to the rigors of shop use. I would think that a pliar type of cone wrench would not hold a cone well enough for complete tightening.

perhaps if only using a QR axle but with an axle with nutted securement the rotation of the axle while tightening it in the drop out can loosen (or tighten) the locknut/cone very easily. Andy.
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Old 03-03-15, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Rubato
Need an apprentice? Thanks for the series.
I learned all my carpentry skills framing cookie cutter houses many years ago. Back then, I had a lot of contempt for my boss. He was the pickiest framer on the job site. I am grateful, now, that he took me (and some other losers) under his belt. He passed away a few years back. I try and honor him by taking pride in a job well done.

Thanks.
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Old 03-03-15, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Actually the forces on axle lock nuts while wrenching them can be quite high. Witness the many worn out cone wrenches hanging on shop tool boards. This is one reason that the double sized cone wrenches (with a stepped opening to fit two different sizes) are only found on recreationly used tools. They don't stand up to the rigors of shop use. I would think that a pliar type of cone wrench would not hold a cone well enough for complete tightening.

perhaps if only using a QR axle but with an axle with nutted securement the rotation of the axle while tightening it in the drop out can loosen (or tighten) the locknut/cone very easily. Andy.
Never tried that.
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Old 03-03-15, 12:28 PM
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I give up.

What was the shelf modification?
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Old 03-03-15, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandrada
Seems like a lot of work if you had to make a "set." Wouldn't it be nice to have thin walled lock jaw pliers? I know the average bike mechanic turns their nose up at anything less than precision tooling, and in most cases they would be correct, but in many situation with cone wrenches all you need is a little "bite."
Yes, I agree. I'd consider a thin jawed crescent wrench too.
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Old 03-03-15, 09:07 PM
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4 more sheets await for the mounting framework to be made
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Old 03-03-15, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by woodcraft
I give up.

What was the shelf modification?
haha. The angle supports were not measured correctly I wanted the face cut to stop even with the trim supports.

Here you can see evidence of the saw cut.



Here, you can't.

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Old 03-03-15, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
Yes, I agree. I'd consider a thin jawed crescent wrench too.
After a quick search, I found out that Stanley actually makes one. I'd probably go for a lock jaw version, though.
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Old 03-04-15, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandrada
haha. The angle supports were not measured correctly I wanted the face cut to stop even with the trim supports.

Here you can see evidence of the saw cut.



Here, you can't.

Oh, that IS glaring.
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