dropouts + skewers
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dropouts + skewers
I bought some temp bolt on QR skewers for 100/135mm hubs.
My drop-outs are aluminium and wider than standard.
The threads don't go to the very end of the nuts, and why I bought them cheap for temp.
My rear is around including drop-outs are 151mm, so are there slightly longer ones I can buy?
Ideally want shimano QR ones, and I don't mind cutting down the rod and adding more thread if i need to.
Don't shimano have a completely different measurement system?
My drop-outs are aluminium and wider than standard.
The threads don't go to the very end of the nuts, and why I bought them cheap for temp.
My rear is around including drop-outs are 151mm, so are there slightly longer ones I can buy?
Ideally want shimano QR ones, and I don't mind cutting down the rod and adding more thread if i need to.
Don't shimano have a completely different measurement system?
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What is the length of the rods on the skewers that you got? I suspect that you were given the skewers for a normal road bike.
Mountain bike skewers are longer because the rear drops are spaced at 135mm. I just measured the rod from the rear skewer from my Trek mountain bike and it's 170mm.
Go to a store and ask for skewers for a mountain bike. If they are too long you can always shorten them.
Mountain bike skewers are longer because the rear drops are spaced at 135mm. I just measured the rod from the rear skewer from my Trek mountain bike and it's 170mm.
Go to a store and ask for skewers for a mountain bike. If they are too long you can always shorten them.
Last edited by RoadGuy; 02-14-15 at 01:00 PM.
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You shouldn't need longer skewers, but let's make a few measurements to see what you have and need.
First of all, if you thread the skewer together until the skewer come to the top of the nut, then measure the inside width, it should be roughly 15mm more than hub's locknut width. that allows 7.5mm for dropout thickness, plus working room. Even if your dropouts are 10mm thick you should still have good thread engagement. All you really need is about 5-6mm of good engagement, beyond that no additional strength is gained.
If your existing skewers don't measure 150mm or so when fully threaded then odds are they're not 135s, more likely 130s.
If you need more, they do make QRs for 140mm but they're not common and may be pricey.
First of all, if you thread the skewer together until the skewer come to the top of the nut, then measure the inside width, it should be roughly 15mm more than hub's locknut width. that allows 7.5mm for dropout thickness, plus working room. Even if your dropouts are 10mm thick you should still have good thread engagement. All you really need is about 5-6mm of good engagement, beyond that no additional strength is gained.
If your existing skewers don't measure 150mm or so when fully threaded then odds are they're not 135s, more likely 130s.
If you need more, they do make QRs for 140mm but they're not common and may be pricey.
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I hope the OP's bike has vertical drop outs. Andy.
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rechecking my bike, the thread is just poking through on the rear, which is fine.
The front though the bolt is about 2mm inside the nut.
I think the dropouts are thicker again, because alu frame + disc.
The front though the bolt is about 2mm inside the nut.
I think the dropouts are thicker again, because alu frame + disc.
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Aluminum may be the most common frame material in use these days, so you shouldn't need anything extra or different for your aluminum frame. Your skewers could be too short or you could have some spacers or washers that don't belong. I think you'll need to measure your skewers and/or post some close-up pics before we can offer additional help.
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That's pretty standard for any current bike, with the very limited info you have supplied - i.e. what bike do you have, what Skewers are you using - thinking, did you buy road skewers for a MTB/Road disc bike?
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The bolt doesn't need to protrude from the nut. How many threads are engaged ?
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#9
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Old 5 speed Road bike rears were 120, fronts 100. so perhaps an old rear for your thick front.
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