Front Disc Brake Caliper Wont Adust To Stop Rubbing ??
02-14-15, 04:47 PM
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Front Disc Brake Caliper Wont Adust To Stop Rubbing ??
Hi there I have a rubbish camera so I found my exact calliper on Ebay
Front Disc Brake Caliper 160mm Mechanical Disk Brake For Mountain Bikes | eBay
The problem is I can adjust the Bottom Adjuster but the one on the top made a strange noise while I was adjusting it and the small washers that were there at the end snapped into 4 pieces it was very small but now I have lost my ability to adjust it the screw goes in and nothing is effected with the Allen key it used to slightly move left and right but now it does not adjust and rubs on the disc brake a lot I did look into the shimano sticky but I don't understand all the model numbers things I have a spring here that came off too which am confused how it goes on as the bottom screw is slightly different say backwards to this one
I hope I made sense :-(
Joe
Front Disc Brake Caliper 160mm Mechanical Disk Brake For Mountain Bikes | eBay
The problem is I can adjust the Bottom Adjuster but the one on the top made a strange noise while I was adjusting it and the small washers that were there at the end snapped into 4 pieces it was very small but now I have lost my ability to adjust it the screw goes in and nothing is effected with the Allen key it used to slightly move left and right but now it does not adjust and rubs on the disc brake a lot I did look into the shimano sticky but I don't understand all the model numbers things I have a spring here that came off too which am confused how it goes on as the bottom screw is slightly different say backwards to this one
I hope I made sense :-(
Joe
Last edited by JoeTheUseless; 02-14-15 at 04:56 PM.
02-14-15, 08:43 PM
#2
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Honestly, it looks and sounds pretty cheap. Perhaps the solution is replacement. Also, you'd more easily make sense if you used periods and capitalization to delineate sentences. I don't have a clear picture of exactly what's wrong, but it sounds outright broken and needing of replacement.
02-15-15, 02:26 AM
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Would really make sure that the ebay one is the same, the rotor has a non-standard interface, and the that the caliper is the same spec as your current broken one.
Also for terms used, Allen is a brand, hex key is the preferred term.
02-15-15, 08:17 AM
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If you are mechanically inclined, take it apart and put it back together. If not, buy a new one.
Most likely, it can be fixed... I had an older Shimano mtb mechanical disc brake that did the same thing, the toe-in adjustment wouldn't budge. It was a while ago, and I don't remember exactly what was sticking, but when I rebuilt it and relubed everything that fixed the problem. When you say you snapped a washer, you mean a circlip? you'll have to replace that. Any decent hardware store should have one.
Most likely, it can be fixed... I had an older Shimano mtb mechanical disc brake that did the same thing, the toe-in adjustment wouldn't budge. It was a while ago, and I don't remember exactly what was sticking, but when I rebuilt it and relubed everything that fixed the problem. When you say you snapped a washer, you mean a circlip? you'll have to replace that. Any decent hardware store should have one.
02-15-15, 10:00 AM
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Pay a shop to do the work for you if you dont have a Clue. I looked at the site ,. and never saw that one in any mainstream Bike Build passing before me .
Id suggest ponying up for something more supported by the Maker.. Avid , Hayes , Shimano all make Cable disc Brakes that are less Cheap. YGWYPF.
Id suggest ponying up for something more supported by the Maker.. Avid , Hayes , Shimano all make Cable disc Brakes that are less Cheap. YGWYPF.
02-15-15, 05:31 PM
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Yeah,I'd return it and get something name brand. Brakes are not the place to skimp on cheap stuff. If you're on a tight budget,check with your local bikes shops. Someone may have swapped the cable discs on their MTB for hydros,and you could get the take-offs for cheap.
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02-16-15, 01:36 AM
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Lets be realistic, if the bike had that brake as stock, the bike is probably a BSO, and is it really worth putting a brake caliper on it that will cost 1/3 or more of the original bikes value?
02-16-15, 06:02 PM
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Why would you put the crappiest brakes you could find on a bike that you're actually going to ride? That's just not smart. Also,we don't know what the stock brakes are,the OP got the one he linked to off eBay. He never said what was on the bike originally,or even what the bike is.
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02-17-15, 12:22 PM
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If the washer that broke is part of a "cup and ball style" adjuster then you can often pick up a matching pair from any bike shop's junk box. If it's something else then you'll need to be creative since it's clearly not standard.
With the cable operated caliper such as you posted the link for typically the inner pad is adjusted to the rotor disc with an adjustment screw. But you need to adjust or shim the caliper body to obtain a setting that puts the inner pad flat to the face of the rotor. Once there you adjust the screw to locate the fixed pad to where it just barely does not skim the rotor. And I do mean "barely". Often the rotor will be off a little and scuff once or twice per revolution. When it does that the rotor needs to be flexed carefully to bend it slightly and true things up. This is done with a combination of bending the areas that touch away from the pad and the parts that don't toward the pad. Again it needs a knowledgeable and delicate touch to avoid making things worse. Once there the pad should give an even rub through the whole revolution. THEN back off the adjuster screw so it just barely does not touch.
As the pads wear you will need to adjust the fixed inner pad in with a click or two of the adjustment screw. Typically that occurs about once every few hundred km's. Or if you ride in the rain or mud then quite a lot. You'll know it needs it because the lever effort needed to stop will increase when the gap opens up.
With the cable operated caliper such as you posted the link for typically the inner pad is adjusted to the rotor disc with an adjustment screw. But you need to adjust or shim the caliper body to obtain a setting that puts the inner pad flat to the face of the rotor. Once there you adjust the screw to locate the fixed pad to where it just barely does not skim the rotor. And I do mean "barely". Often the rotor will be off a little and scuff once or twice per revolution. When it does that the rotor needs to be flexed carefully to bend it slightly and true things up. This is done with a combination of bending the areas that touch away from the pad and the parts that don't toward the pad. Again it needs a knowledgeable and delicate touch to avoid making things worse. Once there the pad should give an even rub through the whole revolution. THEN back off the adjuster screw so it just barely does not touch.
As the pads wear you will need to adjust the fixed inner pad in with a click or two of the adjustment screw. Typically that occurs about once every few hundred km's. Or if you ride in the rain or mud then quite a lot. You'll know it needs it because the lever effort needed to stop will increase when the gap opens up.
