Front derailleur woes...
03-24-15, 09:24 AM
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Front derailleur woes...
Hello bike forum readers,
I have been fixing up a 1992 (ish) Peugeot Evasion. The crankset was replaced, and now the front derailleur won't shift out far enough to accommodate the largest chainring. Does this automatically mean I need to replace it as well? It should fit...the BB is square tapered- I removed the new crankset to compare the diameter of spindle entry to the old one. Same. I tried playing with the derailleur's angles and height to see if I could get more play, I am only 2 mm short I would say, but no good.
Anyone have any ideas? Suggestions? I have attached some pictures that might not be very helpful, but I could get more specific info if needed!
Thank you
I have been fixing up a 1992 (ish) Peugeot Evasion. The crankset was replaced, and now the front derailleur won't shift out far enough to accommodate the largest chainring. Does this automatically mean I need to replace it as well? It should fit...the BB is square tapered- I removed the new crankset to compare the diameter of spindle entry to the old one. Same. I tried playing with the derailleur's angles and height to see if I could get more play, I am only 2 mm short I would say, but no good.
Anyone have any ideas? Suggestions? I have attached some pictures that might not be very helpful, but I could get more specific info if needed!
Thank you
03-24-15, 09:31 AM
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Hello bike forum readers,
I have been fixing up a 1992 (ish) Peugeot Evasion. The crankset was replaced, and now the front derailleur won't shift out far enough to accommodate the largest chainring. Does this automatically mean I need to replace it as well? It should fit...the BB is square tapered- I removed the new crankset to compare the diameter of spindle entry to the old one. Same. I tried playing with the derailleur's angles and height to see if I could get more play, I am only 2 mm short I would say, but no good.
Anyone have any ideas? Suggestions? I have attached some pictures that might not be very helpful, but I could get more specific info if needed!
Thank you
I have been fixing up a 1992 (ish) Peugeot Evasion. The crankset was replaced, and now the front derailleur won't shift out far enough to accommodate the largest chainring. Does this automatically mean I need to replace it as well? It should fit...the BB is square tapered- I removed the new crankset to compare the diameter of spindle entry to the old one. Same. I tried playing with the derailleur's angles and height to see if I could get more play, I am only 2 mm short I would say, but no good.
Anyone have any ideas? Suggestions? I have attached some pictures that might not be very helpful, but I could get more specific info if needed!
Thank you
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03-24-15, 09:52 AM
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@cyccommute, thank you for the quick response!
Yikes. Okay so what I'm looking at is not the fr. derailleur, but instead taking apart the BB (new cups, original spindle) and replacing it with a square tapered spindle that is shorter based on my chain line calculation?
Yikes. Okay so what I'm looking at is not the fr. derailleur, but instead taking apart the BB (new cups, original spindle) and replacing it with a square tapered spindle that is shorter based on my chain line calculation?
03-24-15, 09:56 AM
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Obvious question; have you adjusted the front derailleur's high limit screw further out?
03-24-15, 10:01 AM
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@HillRider, haha sometimes those are the winning questions...
But unfortunately (well fortunately for my problem solving) yes I did...and was still 2 mm short.
But unfortunately (well fortunately for my problem solving) yes I did...and was still 2 mm short.
03-24-15, 10:31 AM
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That's in the range of how much shorter the spindle will have to be (probably more in the 5mm range). It's kind of a pain to shorten up the spindle that little but it won't work otherwise.
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03-24-15, 11:08 AM
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Put a ruler on the downtube and across to the tips of the middle chainring. The distance from the center of the tube to the ring should be 45mm or so. No great pecision is needed, eyeball is good enough, but this will tell you the target range for shortening the spindle.
Looking at the distance from the cranks to the frame, I'd say that 5mm or more is about right, but the measurement will be your best guide.
Looking at the distance from the cranks to the frame, I'd say that 5mm or more is about right, but the measurement will be your best guide.
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03-24-15, 11:25 AM
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Put a ruler on the downtube and across to the tips of the middle chainring. The distance from the center of the tube to the ring should be 45mm or so. No great pecision is needed, eyeball is good enough, but this will tell you the target range for shortening the spindle.
Looking at the distance from the cranks to the frame, I'd say that 5mm or more is about right, but the measurement will be your best guide.
Looking at the distance from the cranks to the frame, I'd say that 5mm or more is about right, but the measurement will be your best guide.
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03-24-15, 11:36 AM
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Another "too simple" question- when installing the crankset did you seat it fully and torque it to specs?
03-24-15, 12:16 PM
#10
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Many spindles have on offset, where one end is longer.
You MIGHT be able to swap the spindle end for end, although that will move the NDS pedal out more.
Is there a "code" on the spindle such as 3-S, 3P etc.
There's a chart here that shows the offsets. Scroll down a bit-
Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database
Which kind of begs the question-
IF you serviced your BB, did you accidentally put the spindle in the wrong way?
You MIGHT be able to swap the spindle end for end, although that will move the NDS pedal out more.
Is there a "code" on the spindle such as 3-S, 3P etc.
There's a chart here that shows the offsets. Scroll down a bit-
Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database
Which kind of begs the question-
IF you serviced your BB, did you accidentally put the spindle in the wrong way?
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 03-24-15 at 12:21 PM.
03-24-15, 01:02 PM
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@Al1943 yes sir!
@Bill Kapaun If only it were that simple
it is in correctly. However if I swap them, what is the risk or downside to having the NDS stick out more? I will have to take it apart tonight to check to see if there is a code on it...
Facts:
- Chain rings are too far out
To be done:
- "Educated Eyeball" the distance from the centre of the down tube to the middle chainring. The difference between the result and the required 45 mm is the amount of shortening the spindle needs.
- Remove the crankset and the BB to replace the spindle with the new shorter one, or if the offset allows it, reverse the direction.
Keeping my fingers crossed!
@Bill Kapaun If only it were that simple
it is in correctly. However if I swap them, what is the risk or downside to having the NDS stick out more? I will have to take it apart tonight to check to see if there is a code on it...Facts:
- Chain rings are too far out
To be done:
- "Educated Eyeball" the distance from the centre of the down tube to the middle chainring. The difference between the result and the required 45 mm is the amount of shortening the spindle needs.
- Remove the crankset and the BB to replace the spindle with the new shorter one, or if the offset allows it, reverse the direction.
Keeping my fingers crossed!
03-24-15, 01:21 PM
#12
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The NDS pedal would stick out Xmm (amount of offset) more than it does now.
IF you are fortunate and it's only 3-4mm, you probably wouldn't notice it, if you're a mere mortal.
IF you are fortunate and it's only 3-4mm, you probably wouldn't notice it, if you're a mere mortal.
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