Removing wet-applied decals NONREPEAT THREAD!
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bournemouth; UK
Posts: 38
Bikes: 2019 Trek Crockett
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
1 Post
Removing wet-applied decals NONREPEAT THREAD!
I have searched the topics on removing decals, and have found nothing that relates to the decals that resemble those one might find in an airfix kit.
I have a Trek CrossRip Elite, which is matte black and has a slightly wonky top tube decal. I'd like to get rid of it, but am scared of ruining or scratching the paint job.
Every thread I can find advises on how to remove stickers; nothing though that advises on what I would call decals.
Thanks
I have a Trek CrossRip Elite, which is matte black and has a slightly wonky top tube decal. I'd like to get rid of it, but am scared of ruining or scratching the paint job.
Every thread I can find advises on how to remove stickers; nothing though that advises on what I would call decals.
Thanks
#2
Steel is real
try using a heat ***
or hair dryer
not too hot though just enough to melt the adhesive to peel it off
afterwards, you can lightly compound [mild cut] anything remaining on the paint
or rub in some WD-40
or hair dryer
not too hot though just enough to melt the adhesive to peel it off
afterwards, you can lightly compound [mild cut] anything remaining on the paint
or rub in some WD-40
Last edited by le mans; 03-25-15 at 06:48 AM.
#3
Steel is real
what's with the filters editing; g u n ? lol
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bournemouth; UK
Posts: 38
Bikes: 2019 Trek Crockett
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
1 Post
i had assumed there was no 'glue' substance left, and that I was dealing with two affixed solids?
I will give it a whirl, and report back... If I can find the right heat source.
thanks!
I will give it a whirl, and report back... If I can find the right heat source.
thanks!
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,258
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Wet transfer decals application is usually followed by clearcoat (as the decals are thin and easily scratched). If under the clear, removal is usually impractical.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bournemouth; UK
Posts: 38
Bikes: 2019 Trek Crockett
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
1 Post
I had thought that this might be the case. Because thought the paint job is matte however, I am inclined to believe there might not be, you can almost see the negative/clear areas of the decal halo-ing the graphics.
Unless a matte finish topcoat is a possibility? I am inclined to not speak directly with Trek, as I have wangled a pair of complimentary xxx road shoes for the trouble.
Unless a matte finish topcoat is a possibility? I am inclined to not speak directly with Trek, as I have wangled a pair of complimentary xxx road shoes for the trouble.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,930
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1819 Post(s)
Liked 1,696 Times
in
976 Posts
If they actually are decals and not stickers they will be extremely difficult to remove. You might be able to figure this out if you pick at the edge with your fingernail. Since decals are so thin, if there is a clear coat your nail won't be able to get under the edge of the decal. If it is a sticker you will be able to feel the edge and maybe get under it
#8
Steel is real
judging by the Op's " slightly wonky" description, i'm thinking it is just a stick on
i removed a factory decal on a top tube of a bike that were feathered around the edges [small thing. the main decal remains & looks ok] which looked very untidy, i just peeled them off
bits that persisted.. i used a hair dryer
bit of polish after, no worries
#10
Steel is real
i see what you mean by wonky now
up to you to determine if its a stick on, or if its embeded under clear paint
if you can't tell, the manufactures should be able to shed some light on it
up to you to determine if its a stick on, or if its embeded under clear paint
if you can't tell, the manufactures should be able to shed some light on it
Last edited by le mans; 03-25-15 at 10:50 AM.
#11
Banned
Someone else who needs Medications, and Psych Counseling, for OCD.
Ignore and ride or get out the Spray paint Rattle Can
Ignore and ride or get out the Spray paint Rattle Can
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-25-15 at 09:38 AM.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,930
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1819 Post(s)
Liked 1,696 Times
in
976 Posts
If it is paint applied over the base coat, you would feel a slight difference in thickness. Clear coat would have been applied over everything. Not saying that it is paint for sure, just that it is possible. I agree about quality control. Paint would be applied with some sort of stencil, if they didn't put it on straight, that is poor quality control
#15
Steel is real
I had thought that this might be the case. Because thought the paint job is matte however, I am inclined to believe there might not be, you can almost see the negative/clear areas of the decal halo-ing the graphics.
Unless a matte finish topcoat is a possibility? I am inclined to not speak directly with Trek, as I have wangled a pair of complimentary xxx road shoes for the trouble.
Unless a matte finish topcoat is a possibility? I am inclined to not speak directly with Trek, as I have wangled a pair of complimentary xxx road shoes for the trouble.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Gaseous Cloud around Uranus
Posts: 3,741
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
7 Posts
If this is a water slide decal,a rag dipped in hot water will remove it....as long as it's not clearcoated over.
A pressure type decal will need some kind of heat to remove easily.
A pressure type decal will need some kind of heat to remove easily.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bournemouth; UK
Posts: 38
Bikes: 2019 Trek Crockett
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
1 Post
at first they denied all interest, stating it was 'not a technical issue' I moaned and they offered me a crappy helmet, I moaned more and they offered me £150 worth of stock... I said I wanted the frame still, until I grew bored of the situation, and asked for the shoes.
I got the bike tax free (around £600) and the shoes retail for £260, so I don't think I did too bad.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,447
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4236 Post(s)
Liked 2,949 Times
in
1,808 Posts
I'm interested to see what you come up with it actually being.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bournemouth; UK
Posts: 38
Bikes: 2019 Trek Crockett
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
1 Post
Ok.. I have now returned to my bike, and have, with the help of a bright light, identified the graphics as decals... I think. I began to doubt noticing the 'halo' effect of a decal, but have captured it nicely. They are definitely raised too, so if there is an overcoat, it's micron thin.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Gaseous Cloud around Uranus
Posts: 3,741
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
7 Posts
You can try the hot water trick,that should loosen it somewhat....and shouldn't hurt the paint.Continue on from there to more destructive methods.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,547
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1529 Post(s)
Liked 718 Times
in
510 Posts
Go easy with the heat.
Carbon doesn't like being very warm at all; 80°C is a typical curing temp, IIRC, probably don't want to go over 60°.
Carbon doesn't like being very warm at all; 80°C is a typical curing temp, IIRC, probably don't want to go over 60°.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Barrettscv
Classic & Vintage
19
10-26-15 12:30 PM
fillarji
Classic & Vintage
13
10-04-10 06:00 PM