chromoly frames
07-23-04, 01:59 PM
#2
I couldn't car less.
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
BMX? Don't believe there is a better steel. Tensile steel is cheap poop. Never saw a titanium bmx frame. Alu is not for jumping unless on suspension, kinda wrecks it. (people may really yell @ me for saying this, 
)
Chromium\ Molybedinum steel alloy is THE standard for quality bmx, WAS for mtb and road for years. Good stuff, never leave home without.
>jef.
Ya, and if you can spell Molybedinum, big deal, I don't CARE to be corrected.
)Chromium\ Molybedinum steel alloy is THE standard for quality bmx, WAS for mtb and road for years. Good stuff, never leave home without.
>jef.
Ya, and if you can spell Molybedinum, big deal, I don't CARE to be corrected.
Last edited by jeff williams; 07-23-04 at 02:05 PM.
07-23-04, 04:16 PM
#4
I couldn't car less.
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
ummm, I did post about the triangle front chromo and tensile rear...
https://www.bikeforums.net/bmx/56177-cro-moly-steel.html
My take is, get as much chromo as you can afford. A good frame would be both triangles chromo.
The mix of tensile and chromo steel should be fine for couple years, pound on it, it will not last as long.
Eventually the tensile steel rear triangle will noodle and bend easily. Better a quality old full chromo frame than a new shiny 'mixed metal'. IMO.
G-luck kid.
>jef.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bmx/56177-cro-moly-steel.html
My take is, get as much chromo as you can afford. A good frame would be both triangles chromo.
The mix of tensile and chromo steel should be fine for couple years, pound on it, it will not last as long.
Eventually the tensile steel rear triangle will noodle and bend easily. Better a quality old full chromo frame than a new shiny 'mixed metal'. IMO.
G-luck kid.
>jef.
Last edited by jeff williams; 07-23-04 at 04:22 PM.
07-23-04, 07:19 PM
#5
Gimpy
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: On my bike.
Posts: 171
Bikes: Haro Backtrail three frame with oddysee hazard lite cassette, dk 4-peice bars, crappy fsa nastyboy cranks, tank headset, sun ringle pedals, profile sprocket, mosh stem, ODI rouge grips, Primo wall tires, Diamond back fork and a few mosh parts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
well depend how hard you land lol and how long you expect to keep it. But ya chromoly is the way to go. A 4130 frame is quite heavy duty.
07-23-04, 07:41 PM
#7
HARO
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 476
Bikes: Haro Mirra Pro 2004
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
ok i got another bike im lookin at and it has a 100% chromo main frame, is that what you were talkin' about,srry if i sound stupid
07-23-04, 08:25 PM
#8
Gimpy
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: On my bike.
Posts: 171
Bikes: Haro Backtrail three frame with oddysee hazard lite cassette, dk 4-peice bars, crappy fsa nastyboy cranks, tank headset, sun ringle pedals, profile sprocket, mosh stem, ODI rouge grips, Primo wall tires, Diamond back fork and a few mosh parts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A chromoly main frame is just the front triangle i beleive but I am not sure. It is a good place to start though. And hey you don't sound stupid at all, you have to learn somewhere and were all glad to help. Just a question on durabiltiy for the frame, If you weigh less than 130 lbs a chromoly main frame will be great for you.
07-24-04, 07:21 AM
#9
~OPSEC~
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 391
Bikes: GT Timberline (mtb) and Haro Backtrail (bmx)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
a chromoly main frame will be more than sufficient, the only thing you really sacrificed if you're a smaller rider is a little weight in the rear....
congrats on the new bike!!
congrats on the new bike!!
07-26-04, 02:03 PM
#11
I couldn't car less.
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
https://www.bmxplusmag.com/detail.asp?id=220
Ah soo. Good choice grasshopper, but can you jump?
Err, not sure the link werks. Ya, should do the trick.
Some of the factory bits will snap off. Replace with stonger.
Bforums will give wrench advice.
Great info source.
Jef.
Ah soo. Good choice grasshopper, but can you jump?
Err, not sure the link werks. Ya, should do the trick
.Some of the factory bits will snap off. Replace with stonger.
Bforums will give wrench advice.
Great info source.
Jef.
07-26-04, 02:29 PM
#12
Gimpy
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: On my bike.
Posts: 171
Bikes: Haro Backtrail three frame with oddysee hazard lite cassette, dk 4-peice bars, crappy fsa nastyboy cranks, tank headset, sun ringle pedals, profile sprocket, mosh stem, ODI rouge grips, Primo wall tires, Diamond back fork and a few mosh parts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Will the short shaft on the pedals realy fall out of th crank arms? Wouldn't that cause crank damage? You would have to be a really hard rider too right?
07-27-04, 10:57 AM
#13
HARO
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 476
Bikes: Haro Mirra Pro 2004
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
so does that mean i'd have to buy better pedals or better cranks and also how come on dans comp its $250 and on all the other websites they are $350 to $400?
07-27-04, 11:11 AM
#14
HARO
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 476
Bikes: Haro Mirra Pro 2004
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jeff williams
https://www.bmxplusmag.com/detail.asp?id=220
Ah soo. Good choice grasshopper, but can you jump?
Err, not sure the link werks. Ya, should do the trick.
Some of the factory bits will snap off. Replace with stonger.
Bforums will give wrench advice.
Great info source.
Jef.
Ah soo. Good choice grasshopper, but can you jump?
Err, not sure the link werks. Ya, should do the trick
.Some of the factory bits will snap off. Replace with stonger.
Bforums will give wrench advice.
Great info source.
Jef.
07-27-04, 03:45 PM
#15
Gimpy
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: On my bike.
Posts: 171
Bikes: Haro Backtrail three frame with oddysee hazard lite cassette, dk 4-peice bars, crappy fsa nastyboy cranks, tank headset, sun ringle pedals, profile sprocket, mosh stem, ODI rouge grips, Primo wall tires, Diamond back fork and a few mosh parts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yea It's not the best idea to buy a bike you immeadiatly have to replace parts on.
08-10-04, 11:22 AM
#16
HARO
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 476
Bikes: Haro Mirra Pro 2004
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
ya i agree, well ive changed my mind again, eastern sequence, hey zach heres how i learned about chromo frames
12-03-05, 06:03 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
another question...from someone else whose learning
on Haro's site they show full chromo and 3 tube chromo. is that the half breed you guys are talking about, our just a solid pole vs. a tube?
on Haro's site they show full chromo and 3 tube chromo. is that the half breed you guys are talking about, our just a solid pole vs. a tube?
12-03-05, 06:26 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: jamaica queens nyc
Posts: 1,734
Bikes: standard sta-r ox mark4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
nobody has posted on this thread for a year.
it means 3 tubes are cromo, top, down and seat. the seat and chainstays are hi ten
it means 3 tubes are cromo, top, down and seat. the seat and chainstays are hi ten
12-03-05, 06:38 PM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by queensrider86
nobody has posted on this thread for a year.
it means 3 tubes are cromo, top, down and seat. the seat and chainstays are hi ten
it means 3 tubes are cromo, top, down and seat. the seat and chainstays are hi ten
PS - are the are the seat & chainstays replacable later, or will it be start over time?
12-06-05, 09:06 AM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ride4life
didn't acctually buy yet... Still asking stupid questions!
12-06-05, 02:34 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Between the mountains and the lake.
Posts: 16,681
Bikes: 8 bikes - one for each day of the week!
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
He's got a fair question here. It depends on your weight, skill, and intended use. If you're a big guy, crappy at landings, or want to go real big, full cro-mo is the only way to go. If none of those describes you, a cro-mo main frame will last you a while.