Mace

Hi,
I'm looking to get a bike, mostly for flatland...I'm trying to decide on a bike around $500. Anybody ride a Haro M6 or Hoffman EP?
Can you tell me what your preferences would be and why?
thanks.

OneTinSloth

do you need someone to go to the shop with you and hold your hand too?

Mace

thanks! that was really helpful!

Aggressor

You idiot.

OneTinSloth

why can't people just buy the ****ing bike that they want without asking about it online? don't you people have real friends who already ride? maybe you could try out someone else's bike and actually experience it for yourself. or better yet, find a shop with the bike you want and test ride it. or ask someone who works in a shop that you trust about these bikes, they're certainly going to know more about it than joe shmoe haro fan on the internet. make friends with the kids who ride in your area. most people in the real world are actually pretty nice if you give them a chance...even me.

this topic seriously shows up at least once a week, and it's usually about the same three bikes, or about bikes in the same price range. do kids actually READ this forum before they post? does it really matter that six kids say "OMG LIKE TOTALLY GET A HARO BECAUSE IT IS TEH BESTEST AND BESIDES LIKE, THE HOFFMAN IS SUPER HEAVY!!!" or if another six say "DUUUUUDE! GET A HOFFMAN!!"?

go to the different companies' websites and look at the specs if you can't find them at a shop. a full 4130 frame is better than hi-ten steel, which is what most haros tend to be made of. i think hoffman may have outsourced a bunch of his frame building needs, so he may actually be using hi-ten on some of his lower end bikes nowadays too. hi-ten steel is on the whole more flexy than 4130. if you're looking at getting into flatland or any kind of riding for that matter, flex=bad. it sucks up your energy and you end up having to work a lot harder to pull of certain tricks or even just pedal down the street.

flatland frames are generally really short, anywhere from 18" to 19.75" top tubes and usually 13.75" chainstay length. short frames are easier to move around for tricks and such, but you won't be able ride much street on one. there's also this myth that flatland frames aren't as strong as street frames. this is bullsh*t. the stresses that are put on a flatland frame are about equal to those that are put on street frame. true, a flatland bike isn't going to be experiencing the same jarring impact-type stresses, but, if it's a quality frame, it will be able to handle them.

another thing to look for is good stock components. if you're just getting into flatland, then the most important thing i'd say is that you get a bike with 3-piece cranks on it and decent pedals and decent wheels. get large diameter, knurled pegs so your feet won't slip off. handlebars and detanglers are personal preference, you can figure out that what you like once you've tried a few things out. a lot of flatlanders tend to use smaller, easier gear ratios. again, personal preference.

my preference would be a standard TAO frame. just because they're hand built, super stiff, and strong enough to take any abuse you can throw at it. they also cost about $300 for just the frame, a major investment for someone who is just beginning.

if you had looked at previous topics about flatland bikes you would have found pretty much all of this information right there for you, along with the typical "DUUUUDE GET A HARO!!!" or "HOFFMANS ARE THE BEST!!" without any justification whatsoever. there are a lot of idiots on this forum. i'm not one of them. i'm just uppity.

Mace

1)I live in a small town surrounded by many small towns - these guys are looking to sell bikes, they only carry a select few so of course they are going to recommend such and such bike - whether it sucks or not.
2)I apologize if I was wrong in thinking the experiences/opinions of a 100 people (give or take) were important.
3)no sh*t - dude get a hoffman, or haro r0cks is on here all the time - that's why I asked for actual preferences. all I really wanted were opinions from people who have actually used these bikes.
4)the rest of your post was good - contained useful info. thanks.

greasemonkey86

get a mosh bagley 3star. its inexpensive and beefy as hell. theyll take anything you give it. how do i know!? i have one honestly though go with what feels right to you try them out and test ride them and make youre own decision.

Jonny B

If you can't find what you want locally, try looking online, particularly www.flatlandfuel.com. I've had many dealings with them, and the only bad story I've heard involved the shipping company (no fault of FF).

Anyway, I'd recommend the Fly Micromachine complete. I have one (just the frame) and it is beautiful, and the complete is loaded with decent parts. However if you want to ride even a little bit of street or park, the Haro is your best bet (although the EP might be up to a bit of thrashing),

Mace

I've decided on the EP. I'll be using my mountain bike for street - just need a bike that won't crack in two if I do some big hops on the way to the park.
thanks.

diamondback

OneTinSloth go flush yourself!

PS: I prefer redline, lots of 4130, sealed bb, 3 piece cranks, monster hubs, good rims.

Aggressor

Congrats on your decision! Have you bought it yet?

OneTinSloth

my friend had a redline. he's 14. he killed the "monster hubs" and the rims within a year, and he just broke the frame at the seat tube/seat stay weld. he's getting a standard.

no, i will not go flush myself.

Aggressor

Myself, I dont like Redline bikes.. I'd much prefer a GT or Hoffman.

Mace

Ordered from flatland fuel...should be here soon.
My mountain bike is a GT karakoram - 1994-5 or so. Upgraded everything on it. I have a GT pro performer bought 1987 - it's in bad shape though. My last jumping/race bike was built around a GT frame. I'm looking at the DH i-drive GT bikes. Never had a bad experience with GT. I've had old redlines from the 80's - thought they were ok. I remember drooling over the redline 'flight' cranks when they came out.