Is this a 1979 Bianchi Nuovo Racing?
#1
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Is this a 1979 Bianchi Nuovo Racing?
I can't seem to find the exact bike anywhere, but I think I can barely make out the words "Nuovo Racing" and 12v-something on the top tube. Columbus sticker by the shifters. Piaggio logos, so late 79 or 80 from my research... Campy Nuovo Record derailleurs, Modolo brakes, Bianchi crank. Just the paint in that condition makes me think it might be worth it. Seller says Mavic wheelset.
The bike looks to be in good shape. Is it worth $250? As in, I could re-sell it for that if I decide it's not for me?
Thanks for your help, folks. I realized I've been posting a lot lately. Hopefully it's not annoying!
The bike looks to be in good shape. Is it worth $250? As in, I could re-sell it for that if I decide it's not for me?
Thanks for your help, folks. I realized I've been posting a lot lately. Hopefully it's not annoying!
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That's a decent deal. Nice bike, in seemingly fine shape. I had one back in the 90s for a while. A red one. For the price, a good bike.
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Concur with others; very solid bike at $250.
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I agree too!! I was out all day yesterday and just got in today and replied to your IM. Good call going ahead and grabbing it.
It is actually an '84, a '79 would have different style decals and some different components
It is actually an '84, a '79 would have different style decals and some different components
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#8
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I know a lot of C&V people like to keep them all original... But I kind of want to put modern components on it.
Any suggestions for a cost effective 10spd group and compatible brakes?
I would hang onto the original parts of course!
Any suggestions for a cost effective 10spd group and compatible brakes?
I would hang onto the original parts of course!
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New stuff? I'd look to the british online stores like chain reaction & wiggle. Shimano tiagra would look good on this bike.
#10
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Tiagra would look sweet... A bit more affordable than Campy too.
I guess I would need to confirm my bottom bracket threading.
Would the brakes fit? How about clamp diameter on front derailleur?
I guess I would need to confirm my bottom bracket threading.
Would the brakes fit? How about clamp diameter on front derailleur?
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Those were great chains. A shop I worked in we used to buy them in bulk 50 chain boxes and tonnes of them in individually boxed ones. I bet we sold 30-40+ of those a week during the summer. If your not going to use it check the bay for pricing.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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You need to measure the brake reach: Installing and Adjusting Caliper Brakes
Your bike should have short reach brakes and it should be no problem but always measure first.
Same goes for the seat tube dimension; it's getting harder to find FDs with the right clamp size for (skinny) steel frames (typically 28.6) but you can get an adapter for a braze on front derailleur, like this Front Derailleur Clamp, Braze-on (28.6mm) - 17121
FDs that fit more than one size are pretty common and they come with an adapter of some kind to fit 28.6, like this Shimano Tiagra 4600 Double 10-Speed Front Derailleur | excelcycle
The rear hub will be 130 mm and your frame is 126 mm. No big deal. You don't need to cold set the frame; you can simply push open the drop outs to fit your new wheel.
There's a thread on BF with pictures of modernized vintage road bikes. You can get some ideas for your build from that thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html
Last edited by bikemig; 04-12-15 at 09:12 AM.
#13
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You need to measure the brake reach: Installing and Adjusting Caliper Brakes
Your bike should have short reach brakes and it should be no problem but always measure first.
Same goes for the seat tube dimension; it's getting harder to find FDs with the right clamp size for (skinny) steel frames (typically 28.6) but you can get an adapter for a braze on front derailleur, like this Front Derailleur Clamp, Braze-on (28.6mm) - 17121
FDs that fit more than one size are pretty common and they come with an adapter of some kind to fit 28.6, like this Shimano Tiagra 4600 Double 10-Speed Front Derailleur | excelcycle
The rear hub will be 130 mm and your frame is 126 mm. No big deal. You don't need to cold set the frame; you can simply push open the drop outs to fit your new wheel.
There's a thread on BF with pictures of modernized vintage road bikes. You can get some ideas for your build from that thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html
Your bike should have short reach brakes and it should be no problem but always measure first.
Same goes for the seat tube dimension; it's getting harder to find FDs with the right clamp size for (skinny) steel frames (typically 28.6) but you can get an adapter for a braze on front derailleur, like this Front Derailleur Clamp, Braze-on (28.6mm) - 17121
FDs that fit more than one size are pretty common and they come with an adapter of some kind to fit 28.6, like this Shimano Tiagra 4600 Double 10-Speed Front Derailleur | excelcycle
The rear hub will be 130 mm and your frame is 126 mm. No big deal. You don't need to cold set the frame; you can simply push open the drop outs to fit your new wheel.
There's a thread on BF with pictures of modernized vintage road bikes. You can get some ideas for your build from that thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html
I'll post my progress as it happens!
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You might want to consider Bikes Direct too. You might find a closeout on a 73cm Hiten frame w/ 105 on it and then you get wheels chain and all. you could either use the frame for scaffolding or sell it for a few sheckles.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#15
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Actually a grand idea. I'll scour Craigslist for a once ridden Tiagra/105/? bike.
#16
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I think I've decided to ride it a bit first and see how I feel. The cost may make my modern components idea silly. That being said, do you guys think this seatpost will support me?
I'm at 180 on heaviest days... And I broke an SR Laprade on one of my Peugeot bikes. (We think it had a crack previously, but still)
I'm at 180 on heaviest days... And I broke an SR Laprade on one of my Peugeot bikes. (We think it had a crack previously, but still)
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Yes. That looks like a campy seatpost; in any case it will work. That's a fine saddle as well.
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Good call. Apart from the cost, the Shimano cranks and RDs are so unbearably ugly, it'd be shame to hang them on such a pretty frame. And the parts won't just swap in, at the very least, you'd have to rebuild the rear wheel with a modern hub to upgrade to 10 speed, or just get a whole new wheelset, etc...
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#19
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Rode 10 miles today (short on time) and confirmed that I'm leaving it how it is!
I'm blown away by how comfy the saddle is. I thought any saddle without a cutout was impossible for me.
No joke, I'm thinking about test driving a new Bianchi endurance bike if their 80's bikes are this sweet.
I'm blown away by how comfy the saddle is. I thought any saddle without a cutout was impossible for me.
No joke, I'm thinking about test driving a new Bianchi endurance bike if their 80's bikes are this sweet.
#20
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I am glad to hear your going to keep it original.
I always tell people when they get their hands a old classic and want to up grade right away you have to give it a chance. I tell them to think of it as a car, your cruising town in your 2013 Chevy Malibu with auto trans, power assist antilock brakes, 50 cup holders, 3 mirrors, backup camera etc. Then you buy a '66 Fiat with no air 2 mirrors, hydraulic brakes (maybe) 3spd auto, sans synchro mesh gears, and the cup goes between your knees. It takes a little getting used to but once you get the hang of the auto gear box it is the greatest thing in the world.
Also IMHO you shift less with friction and therefore work more at times. All I would upgrade on that bike are 'comfort' things. A taller stem for my back, C-rec/Chorus era aero brake levers for my carpel tunnels and extra bottle on the bars.
OH you I would definitely ditch those old Syntered (crap) brake blocks, KoolStop makes Modolo replacements. I general do that as matter of refurbing almost any bike I get.
I always tell people when they get their hands a old classic and want to up grade right away you have to give it a chance. I tell them to think of it as a car, your cruising town in your 2013 Chevy Malibu with auto trans, power assist antilock brakes, 50 cup holders, 3 mirrors, backup camera etc. Then you buy a '66 Fiat with no air 2 mirrors, hydraulic brakes (maybe) 3spd auto, sans synchro mesh gears, and the cup goes between your knees. It takes a little getting used to but once you get the hang of the auto gear box it is the greatest thing in the world.
Also IMHO you shift less with friction and therefore work more at times. All I would upgrade on that bike are 'comfort' things. A taller stem for my back, C-rec/Chorus era aero brake levers for my carpel tunnels and extra bottle on the bars.
OH you I would definitely ditch those old Syntered (crap) brake blocks, KoolStop makes Modolo replacements. I general do that as matter of refurbing almost any bike I get.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#21
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I too have noticed I shift less with friction shifters! Actually not a bad thing.
Good call on the brake pads. These original Modolo ones suck!
I guess they are thirty years old... Haha.
Good call on the brake pads. These original Modolo ones suck!
I guess they are thirty years old... Haha.
Last edited by tronnyjenkins; 04-15-15 at 10:14 AM.
#22
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Did another 16 miles on it today, and I'm still OK with original
Question: how tight should the cones be on these Ofmega hubs? I've got an odd random clicking/ticking/light popping that's about to drive me crazy. I tightened spokes and took apart the hub to re-grease. However, I'm pretty sure it isn't a spoke. The little metal beauty cap things are pretty loose, so maybe that's what it is? It wasn't doing it until I disassembled...
Question: how tight should the cones be on these Ofmega hubs? I've got an odd random clicking/ticking/light popping that's about to drive me crazy. I tightened spokes and took apart the hub to re-grease. However, I'm pretty sure it isn't a spoke. The little metal beauty cap things are pretty loose, so maybe that's what it is? It wasn't doing it until I disassembled...
#23
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Beauty caps? never heard that before. I am not too familiar with those hubs but I think they shold press in just like the CampI ones do.
Are you sure it isn't something in the tire? or the rim hitting the brake pad? Do you have another pair of 6spd 700c wheels? Swap them out and make sure it is the wheels and not the crank. Also try one wheel at a time to isolate the wheel making the noise.
Are you sure it isn't something in the tire? or the rim hitting the brake pad? Do you have another pair of 6spd 700c wheels? Swap them out and make sure it is the wheels and not the crank. Also try one wheel at a time to isolate the wheel making the noise.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#24
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Beauty caps? never heard that before. I am not too familiar with those hubs but I think they shold press in just like the CampI ones do.
Are you sure it isn't something in the tire? or the rim hitting the brake pad? Do you have another pair of 6spd 700c wheels? Swap them out and make sure it is the wheels and not the crank. Also try one wheel at a time to isolate the wheel making the noise.
Are you sure it isn't something in the tire? or the rim hitting the brake pad? Do you have another pair of 6spd 700c wheels? Swap them out and make sure it is the wheels and not the crank. Also try one wheel at a time to isolate the wheel making the noise.
I'm not sure what the caps I'm referring to are called, but basically they're just kind of sitting in there. I guess I'll play around with the wheel when I get back on Monday. We're doing the BP MS150 (if it doesn't get rained out!)
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