Reasonable Frameset Price
#1
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Reasonable Frameset Price
Mid eighties complete and rideable bikes often go for 200-250. I got my son a Trek 560 for the $220 asking price. (I don't haggle). He crashed the trek, buckling the top and downtube and bending the fork. Now I need a frameset. Is $80 too much? (LA Craig's list)
And how can you tell if the frame is straight?
And how can you tell if the frame is straight?
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$80 is just fine if it's in decent shape. You can use the string method to see if it's straight. Google it.
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#3
Senior Member
Mid eighties complete and rideable bikes often go for 200-250. I got my son a Trek 560 for the $220 asking price. (I don't haggle). He crashed the trek, buckling the top and downtube and bending the fork. Now I need a frameset. Is $80 too much? (LA Craig's list)
And how can you tell if the frame is straight?
And how can you tell if the frame is straight?
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My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,'81 Merckx, '85 Centurion Cinelli, '85 Raleigh Portage, '92 RB-2, '09 Bianchi
My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,
#4
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FYI, the ad says 58cm, but I'd bet dollars to donuts that is a 56cm. So if your son is 5'10" and still growing it's too small.
Quick reference guide from an unreliable source:
CIM's were "offered" even cm only.
Measured from c-bb, along the seat tube, to the lower part of the scalloped opening of the seat cluster lugs.
Roughly the same as c-bb to top of TT, but not exactly.
That's just how Centurion sent them out to the masses....
50cm: head lugs pretty much touching behind the head tube. No peg.
52cm: head lugs not touching, about 1.5cm space between them, behind the head tube. No peg.
54cm: Pump peg is centered on the back of the head tube between the lugs. TT=55cm c-c
56cm: Pump peg is about 5/8-2/3 "up" from the DT towards the TT, on the back of the head tube. TT=56cm c-c
58cm: Pump peg is about 3/4 "up" from the DT towards the TT, on the back of the head tube. TT=57cm c-c
60cm: Pump peg is about 7/8-9/10 "up" from the DT towards the TT, on the back of the head tube. TT=58cm.
Most often confused are the 56cm and the 58cm, because they are pretty close.
60cm is pretty clear; tons of real estate below that pump peg down to the DT.
Bear in mind, even with CIM's funny measuring, many people think they have a 55cm or a 57cm or a 59cm Ironman.
They're right, they do. It's just in the measuring, and however you measure your bike is the way you fit your bikes.
It's of major importance before you buy an Ironman, so get one that fits.
After that, It's a 60-second topic of conversation between drinks of your favorite beverage.
Because, by then, you know the deal.
CIM's were "offered" even cm only.
Measured from c-bb, along the seat tube, to the lower part of the scalloped opening of the seat cluster lugs.
Roughly the same as c-bb to top of TT, but not exactly.
That's just how Centurion sent them out to the masses....
50cm: head lugs pretty much touching behind the head tube. No peg.
52cm: head lugs not touching, about 1.5cm space between them, behind the head tube. No peg.
54cm: Pump peg is centered on the back of the head tube between the lugs. TT=55cm c-c
56cm: Pump peg is about 5/8-2/3 "up" from the DT towards the TT, on the back of the head tube. TT=56cm c-c
58cm: Pump peg is about 3/4 "up" from the DT towards the TT, on the back of the head tube. TT=57cm c-c
60cm: Pump peg is about 7/8-9/10 "up" from the DT towards the TT, on the back of the head tube. TT=58cm.
Most often confused are the 56cm and the 58cm, because they are pretty close.
60cm is pretty clear; tons of real estate below that pump peg down to the DT.
Bear in mind, even with CIM's funny measuring, many people think they have a 55cm or a 57cm or a 59cm Ironman.
They're right, they do. It's just in the measuring, and however you measure your bike is the way you fit your bikes.
It's of major importance before you buy an Ironman, so get one that fits.
After that, It's a 60-second topic of conversation between drinks of your favorite beverage.
Because, by then, you know the deal.
#5
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Marque, condition and the personal likes of an individual will all determine what the frame is worth.
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That is a good deal, even moreso for a vintage Trek. Is this a 560 frame? Those were quality frames but if it were me, and maybe you dont want the extra hassle, I would wait for a 531c type frame, perhaps from a 760. That is a significant investment and would be an easy swap-over/build.
#7
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Looks like a 1989 Centurion Ironman frame.
From a 2008 BF thread:
First question, is it the correct size for your son? It looks like a 58cm which means he should have at least a 32.5" to 33" inseam. If it's too big or too small then no matter what the price is... it's no deal!
Second, these bikes were designed for triathlon racing. Some of them were actually used for that purpose and were rode hard and literally put away wet... The frame is from LA so that might well be the case.
If I were buying it, I'd like to see a bunch of closeups to make sure that it's not a rust bucket.
I bought a 1987 pink and yellow Ironman from LA and that was the case. It took me 3 hours to cut the seatpost out of the frame with the saws pictured below.
On a good note, almost all of the components from the Trek will work on the Centurion frame. You may need to get another seatpost and obviously a front wheel.
verktyg
has.
From a 2008 BF thread:
First question, is it the correct size for your son? It looks like a 58cm which means he should have at least a 32.5" to 33" inseam. If it's too big or too small then no matter what the price is... it's no deal!
Second, these bikes were designed for triathlon racing. Some of them were actually used for that purpose and were rode hard and literally put away wet... The frame is from LA so that might well be the case.
If I were buying it, I'd like to see a bunch of closeups to make sure that it's not a rust bucket.
I bought a 1987 pink and yellow Ironman from LA and that was the case. It took me 3 hours to cut the seatpost out of the frame with the saws pictured below.
On a good note, almost all of the components from the Trek will work on the Centurion frame. You may need to get another seatpost and obviously a front wheel.
verktyg
has.
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
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Moved from C&V to C&V Appraisals.
#9
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#10
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At its new home. Looks better in real life than CL photos.
Thanks for giving me the go ahead. 58cm ST center to top of lug 57 CTC. 58 TT CTC.
Ordered some Gran Compe drilled and white hooded levers to go with an otherwise complete 600 group from the TREK 560.
Thanks for giving me the go ahead. 58cm ST center to top of lug 57 CTC. 58 TT CTC.
Ordered some Gran Compe drilled and white hooded levers to go with an otherwise complete 600 group from the TREK 560.
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