I already buy stuff Niagara and just ordered some bar wrap from PBK. I was looking at the cable sets, but was unsure and didn't.
I've found little difference with it in installing, it's not as slick and lubed as the Jagwire or Shimano sets I've used, but then again, it's 1/3 the cost.
I put a set on my 1983 Centurion Turbo with Shimano RSX STI's, and this afternoon, another set on my 1988 Centurion Ironman Carbon with Campagnolo Chorus Ergo's. Both mounted just fine. Make sure you're using the right ends, and don't cut off the end you need. (Been there, done that)
I also wrapped my Ironman in some 2.99 wrap from PBK, the blue/yellow cork. It went OK, the stuff is comparable to other cork, no problem. I used it because it was cheap, and I'm likely to swap it out next year by this time, if I change tire color, etc. That's my gig.
I live in Portland OR, and I got my cables at Fred Meyer. I know, I know, shopping at a box store but the deal was just too good to pass up. Cables and housing for both brakes and both derailleurs.... 6.99. Cant beat it with a stick.
If I look at a bike that I know is posted by a local flipper or find out the seller is a flipper when I get there, as long as I'm okay with the bike and price otherwise then I just figure the extra money I gave them is like a finder's fee or a birddog fee.
I was in local shop today and they charge $300 for a complete tear down and rebuild including bearing repacks. I do that to most of my 'flip bikes' regardless of how much I list them for!!!!
Alot of the others here who flip perform similar service. If the end user isnt into maintenance or a good 'wrench' it could be benificial.
Not much has been said about the donor bike. I recently came across an example. I find entry level road and mountain bikes at yard sales, that's my best source of bikes that can be flipped. Some of the road bikes date back to the 70s when alloy rims were not always found as original equipment. So when I found a $5 Huffy Techtra (attached pics) I grabbed it. For $5, here's what I get, a pair of alloy 27" rims (destined for a Motobecane I've got), a pair of alloy, side pull brakes (probably wind up on ladies roadie I was given), a saddle with no rips (targeted for a mid level rigid fork mountain bike), a chain with almost no miles and no rust (no problem finding a home for a good condition chain), a Shimano rear derailer (for a Schwinn World missing a derailer), and a Custom brand alloy black anodized stem. The rest I'll scrap.
This bike sat through a garage sale with no takers (note the bent stay). A bike like this is a source of low cost raw materials. I did a frame up build, Nishiki Ariel with 80% of the parts coming from donor bikes.
My 2 cents: I am a serious (at least alot of miles) and I've built up a serious madone mainly from parts I get here and there and money I get from sales of parts that don't fit. Its' the only way I can justify carbon frame, bars, crank, stem, Force drivetrain and zero gravity brakes for my 220# body at 20 mph. Often times I need info mostly on older DA and Campy stuff. When I go to the Vintage section I feel bad that I'm talking about a cool bike I want to part or sell rather than keep. I don't flip, parts bring more money than whole bikes nearly 100% of the time. But it would be nice to get comments from those out there that do similiar to what I do.
Flippers drive up prices for everyone else and deny good deals to people who actually want to ride bikes and not make money off them.
If you don't want to go look for a bike and feel it should just be laid at your feet, then that might be true. But you have the same chance at finding a bike as anyone else in here. Get off your duff...
One of the local bike stores charges $300 for that service. I'm selling the bike for $350.
The rule flippers exist by is the ratio of risk/reward. Stick to the low end and buy bikes that sell or $200/under and the best you'll typically do is _far less than the minimum wage. Probably $4/hour. Every step up in margin *might* glean a better profit (but remember that we're still talking like $10/hour) at the risk of getting stuck with a $500 'investment' that's unsalable for any number of reasons.
If you look at the practice dispassionately, you'll find that flippers are typically doing the world a great service for very little reward, saving graceful bikes from tragic fate, basically for the love of the bikes themselves. Only a wide-eyed optimist could do it as a business.
I seem to find lots of 70-80's Schwinn Cruisers. Suburban, Tourist, Breeze, etc
What seems to be the going price for these models pre-flip and post flip?
SF craigs, As it is...
Re: Re: Re: used bike prices on CL - $1 (haight ashbury)
Reply to: email@example.com [Errors when replying to ads?]
Date: 2009-03-02, 10:36AM PST
The San Francisco Craigslist "experience" is impressive. Daily, there are hundreds of bicycles posted. Some are bargains, some are priced either ignorantly, unrealistically or even criminally. As with many things in life, the more you know about something the better armed you are to not be taken for a ride. heh. Get it? Some bikes are vintage and valuable. Others are simply old and or damaged. How is one to know? If you are unfamiliar, have a knowledgeable friend help. To get a more realistic idea of how bikes should be sold on craigslist, go to a smaller venue like, say, Cincinnati and see how many bikes are offered daily and what they are offered for. The Bay Area is an exception. Everybody uses Craigslist, even criminals. Caveat emptor. Have a nice ride. Peter the vintage three speed guy.
Flippers don't drive up prices, because they buy low. Competition and scarcity drives up prices. Flippers don't compete, and they don't have a lock on all the bikes out there, either. They do their homework, they do the leg work, they do the turnaround work, and add value to the product.
Flippers don't deny good deals to people who actually want to ride bikes. Most flippers I know charge a fair price, and if it doesn't sell, eventually go lower. If a person actually wants to "ride a bike and not make money," that person needs to research the bike he/she wants, do the homework, the legwork, and if they buy low, there's bound to be some turnaround work. It generally involves work.
A "roll ready" bike should cost more, and generally does.
I have bought from BF members who do not flip; they sell what they don't need or doesn't fit.
I have bought from BF members who do flip; I wanted the bike and the price was within my range.
I have flipped three bikes. All were incredibly low to buy and sold for a lot more. I put $200 in parts into one to make it as close to perfect as I could; I "profited" maybe $400. I put about 10 hours and no money into one, made $100. I put about 8 hours into the 3rd, made $55. I've since found out that all three were worth significantly more than I sold them for. Maybe they've even flipped again.
I have sold probably 15-20 others. I've either broken even over the long run, or close enough that I can convince myself I have. :twitchy: No one has been unhappy. I've taken a few back in on trades for others. I've made specific 100% buy-back offers on two, and both were refused. I guess I sold them too low. My bad, but my rep is sterling with those folks, and they've brought buyers by. More buyers, more riders, more fun for everyone.
The market is what it is. The main sellers who aren't making much are low volume small bike shops. If I wanted the best deal on a great bike right now, I'd probably order a new road bike from LBS, pay in advance. I'd probably get it for 15-20% over cost, because he's trying to survive. He does better if I buy the occasional tube, cable, tool, etc.
Performance sometimes has $5 cork bar tape deals.
I try to make not less than $100 on a bike, preferably more. It helps if you can get parts near distributor cost. I have an arrangement with a couple shops where they get me parts at very little mark up. Because of this I can put a new wheelset on a bike and mark it up accordingly, without breaking the bank and nullifying profits, or overpricing the bike.
Since I'm diligent about fully overhauling anything used, putting a new wheelset on a bike saves me some time because i don't have to open the hubs up, and it also looks great with new tires. Makes a great impression. Not to mention that at least 50% of the araya aluminums on most of these bikes are wavy, need retensioning, or are beyond repair. I also offer to build custom wheels as a way to make the bike even nicer, and make some more on it. I'm all about taking old frames and components and making them as nice as they can be within a budget.
As some have mentioned, it definitely pays to buy bulk and get deals in the process. Buy lots of bar tape, cables, tires, etc. I ALWAYS put new tires, cables and housing, and bar tape on a bike. I ALWAYS overhaul the headset, and either overhaul the bb, or plug in a cartridge. If the wheels are used, they get overhauled and tensioned. If new, just adjusted and tensioned.
If your market is Craigslist, you'll find that a rebuilt road bike will go for more in Chicago than it will in Bum Belfuque, Arkansas. I've considered going out to places like that to BUY bikes to rebuild and sell in Chicago. Prices for rebuilt bikes in Chicago are going up with demand, so be aware of changes in your market.
Who knows how many are hitting the garage sales which is something I have little desire to do.
Do you post internationally? I just posted a frame, forks and headset to japan (6kg?) and it cost me 75 euros. I thought it would cost 32 euros .... big loss! Is there a way to keep cost down or is it just not a good idea?
I tried to send a ten dollar bracelet to Australia via fedex and they wanted $55. They are still the cheapest for domestic.