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  1. #1
    Senior Member mudboy's Avatar
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    1986 Schwinn Prelude -- good buy?

    I swung and missed on a 531 framed Trek listed on CL, but the guy told me he was about to list a 1986 Schwinn Prelude in my size for $150. He says it's in good shape, pictures are forthcoming, with the only changes from stock being 105 aero brake levers and an x5000 rear derailleur. I'm looking for a second bike for running to the store and that sort of thing, so at $150, the price is just about right. Only changes I would make is maybe moustache bars, throw on a rear rack and fenders, and wider range chanrings if it comes with the standard 40/52 ... what was the stock crankset on it? Any comments on the Prelude in general, anything I should look out for, that sort of thing? Anyone know if it has a Helicomatic rear hub?

    Thanks

    Pete
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  2. #2
    Decrepit Member Scooper's Avatar
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    The stock crankset was a forged light alloy SR SXC-200 40/52T 170mm crank arms. Frame is Columbus Tenax doubled-butted chromoly. Rear hub is Maillard small flange alloy with sealed mechanism. It has 27" (rather than 700C) rims.

    1986 Prelude catalog page.

    1986 Schwinn road bike specs.

    These are nice bikes. It's a bargain at $150 IMHO.
    Last edited by Scooper; 06-28-09 at 09:44 AM.
    - Stan

  3. #3
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    +1 Bargain for $150 if you are an end user. I have a 1986 Prelude myself right now in the to be finished backlog. Aero levers are a plus IMHO. Came with Cyclone components, which I prefer, so too bad about that changed RD (but the 5000 is fine as well).
    Last edited by wrk101; 06-28-09 at 10:14 AM. Reason: comment

  4. #4
    Senior Member mudboy's Avatar
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    OK, it's mine, I'm picking it up on Thursday (I telecommute 4 days a week but am in the office -- near the seller -- on Thursday). They guy sent me pics and the condition was OK - not outstanding, but nothing too ugly, either. It's got a garishly funktastic Selle Italia Flite saddle on it and 60 aero pedals, both of which will go, but apart from that it just looks like it needs lube, adjustment, and a new spoke in the rear wheel.

    The owner had replaced the FW from stock to something wider range (looks larger than a 28 -- probably a 30), with the longer cage rear derailleur, which is fine, since I plan on turning this into a grocery-getter. However, the SR cranks look like a 130mm BCD, and I was hoping to run something like a 34/46 up front. I guess I need to hit the for trade or pay it forward threads to find a more suitable crankset. I have a Suntour XC Pro BB which will be better than the nutted BB that's on the thing currently, if I can find a crank to work with it.

    Anyway, thanks for the advice.

    Pete
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  5. #5
    Senior Member mudboy's Avatar
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    Update. Picked it up Thursday, had a chance to start working on it Friday. Condition is OK; it will need all new cables and a complete overhaul, but once that's done, it should be good to go. Paint is spotty but the frame is in good physical shape, so I'll leave it as-is so it won't attract much interest while it's on the bike rack. I might rebuild the wheels, as the spokes are pretty dodgy. The guy who sold me the bike gave me a San Marco which is more ass-appropriate than the Flite that was on it. He also sold me a set of older 700c wheels for $20, so I'll figure out which hubs are in better shape, go with them, and sell what's left.

    The only real issue was that the SR stem was frozen in the steerer. Tried some pounding, then some ammonia, and finally ended up (carefully) attacking with my sawzall. I was going to put some Rivendell Albatross bars on it anyway, so no real loss.

    Pete
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  6. #6
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    FWIW: On my Prelude, both the stem and seat post were stuck. The solution in my case was patience. Soaked them well with PB Blaster, and let it sit over night.

    Since I got the bike at a typical garage sale price, I didn't feel too bad with the issue.

  7. #7
    Senior Member knoregs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudboy View Post
    The only real issue was that the SR stem was frozen in the steerer. Tried some pounding, then some ammonia, and finally ended up (carefully) attacking with my sawzall. I was going to put some Rivendell Albatross bars on it anyway, so no real loss.

    Pete
    I don't get it. If the stem was stuck in the steerer and you used a sawzall, wouldn't the bars still be fine and the stem in two pieces? How did you get the stem out of the steerer?
    "I'm a foreign diplomat. I don't pay for drinks. Do you think G. Gordon Liddy paid for his drinks while he was strangling people with piano wire for the good of our nation?" - Peter Griffin

  8. #8
    Senior Member mudboy's Avatar
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    I tossed the bars because they were completely covered with what apparead to be the most insidious duct tape residue I've ever seen, and I didn't have the patience to clean that crap off of them. I ended up picking up a pair of Bontrager north road bars and an old steel mountain bike stem at a shop, which will be more in line with the upright grocery-getter intent of the bike.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member mudboy's Avatar
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    Keeee-ryst. Two steps forward, one step back. Threads on the non-drive crank arm are stripped. Guess I need to find a new (old) crankset now....and a BB, I really hate the nutted type BB. I have a NOS Suntour XC Pro GG BB, I'll try to find something that'll work with it.
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  10. #10
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudboy View Post
    Keeee-ryst. Two steps forward, one step back. Threads on the non-drive crank arm are stripped. Guess I need to find a new (old) crankset now....and a BB, I really hate the nutted type BB. I have a NOS Suntour XC Pro GG BB, I'll try to find something that'll work with it.
    Lots of vintage cranksets out there, ebay, etc., or even better, find a donor bike.

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