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Thread: '78 Guerciotti

  1. #1
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    '78 Guerciotti

    hey there, i picked up this Guerc for $200 last summer, after a little research i have come to the conclusion that it is a '78 frame. it is not in the best of shape but it has most of its original parts. this is my first road bike and it has been cool working on it and learning about it. before this i had never even heard of tubular tires haha.

    here is a list of Campy parts that are on it, from what info i could gather:

    Crankset: Campagnolo Strada, Nuovo Record
    Chainrings: Campagnolo 735/A, Super Record
    Front Derailleur: Campagnolo 1052/SR, Super Record
    Rear Derailleur: Campagnolo 4001, Super Record (2nd Gen Ver.1)
    Headset: Campagnolo 4041, Super Record
    Brake Levers: Campagnolo Nuovo Record (Guerciotti panto'ed)
    Brakes: Campagnolo 2040, Record (CPSC, Guerciotti Panto'ed)
    Pedals: Campagnolo 4021, Super Record Strada
    Hubs: Campagnolo 1251, Nuovo Tipo (small flange)
    Rims: Wolber Super Champion Aspin (tubular)

    the drop-outs are Campy too, as is usual with these frames, and it has the original Guerciotti panto'ed seat post

    the rear cassette is a 7 gear Suntour which doesnt seem to mesh well with the rest of the drivetrain

    one of the custom panto'ed shifter levers has been replaced with a generic one,

    the seat and handlebars i got thrown in for the $200, a San Marco Ischia K seat, and Sakae Road Champion bars

    just glued fresh Schwalbe Montellos on the rims this week and took it for its first ride of the year tonight.


    when i got the bike it had some crazy ass marathon bars on it that streched out like a foot into a diamond shape, and the pedal cages dragged on the ground, it has a Bicycle Association of British Columbia sticker on it from '87 and apparently the previous owner used it for road marathons, it was completely (and still is partially) caked in road grime.

    anyways i just like it cuz i can lift it over my head with my pinky finger like in the old Guerciotti ads haha


    so, what do you guys reckon for value??










    Last edited by Freeload; 04-03-10 at 03:57 AM. Reason: forgot pics

  2. #2
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    But, if you post a photo of yourself holding it with one finger in an eBay auction or on Craigslist, the value will drop to $3.50.

    -Kurt

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    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    Condition, condition, condition. Its hard to say as nothing is any better than 5/10 condition from what I can tell. In general, Campy Super Record equipted bikes start in $1000-1200 range but thats for bike in 8/10 condition.

    I'm on the fence in regards to if its worth more as a whole or parted out but personaly, I wouldnt pay alot for that bike. If you can get $500 on ebay consider yourself lucky.
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

  4. #4
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Hi freeload, great looking classic. how does it ride? personally, even being a Bianchi fan, I bought that 200 I would have a hard time parting with it at any price.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

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    it rides very well, i actually have trouble keeping things at a safe speed with all the hills around here.. i guess its like a ferrari, meant to be driven fast and aggressive. the bearings are amazing, it coasts for days, i actually have no plans to get rid of it unless/until i move out of town. as for condition, i kind of like that it is a bit rough, people just look at it like its a piece of crap but once they get up close they are like "hey.... nice" i have considered tearing it down and getting it powdercoated or something, but i figure if i were going to do anything i would take it to an autoshop or something and get the shiny bits polished and the frame degreased and clear coated over the original paint. all and all i am trying to keep the total cost under $600 because there really is no point in spending more on it. my main issue right now is with the gears, i have played with the limit screws and all that but i cannot get it to shift into the largest gear on the back smoothly, it either doesnt want to shift to it fully, or it jumps off into the spokes

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    Stop reading my posts! unworthy1's Avatar
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    Get the seatpost out and put some grease on it! (and seeing it this low it's either too big a frame for you or you have it mis-adjusted)
    Get a decent saddle on that thing!
    Strip it all down, clean everything, soak the bare frame/fork in oxalic acid then just dry it completely and apply FrameSaver inside and a good wax outside...this preserves the "patina" but keeps the frame from further damage.
    I don't think you should blame the Shimano FW for miss-shifting without eliminating all other possibilities, if anything a good-condition Shim FW will be an improvement over a Regina. How big IS that largest cog?
    Check the hanger for bending, check the chain for wear and length (!), check the RD for a bent cage (!), Clean and Lube Everything (!!!) then check the adjustments.
    I like the one Simplex retrofriction lever as a replacement
    it has "portacatena" dropouts, so '78 would be the absolute earliest possible...more likely a '79 or later.

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    Since 1938... JunkYardBike's Avatar
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    This just popped up in my ebay saved searches. Looks like it lasted just over 24 hours before it sold for $1350 BIN. At first I thought it was yours, but there are differences and it looks cleaner. Seller claims '78 like you (where did you establish the date?)

    Depending on condition, that pantographed stuff + frameset could potentially sell for more than $1350 parted out, but probably only if it's in pristine condition (scratches on levers takes it down a notch, for example).

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123


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    Quote Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
    Get the seatpost out and put some grease on it! (and seeing it this low it's either too big a frame for you or you have it mis-adjusted)
    Get a decent saddle on that thing!
    Strip it all down, clean everything, soak the bare frame/fork in oxalic acid then just dry it completely and apply FrameSaver inside and a good wax outside...this preserves the "patina" but keeps the frame from further damage.
    I don't think you should blame the Shimano FW for miss-shifting without eliminating all other possibilities, if anything a good-condition Shim FW will be an improvement over a Regina. How big IS that largest cog?
    Check the hanger for bending, check the chain for wear and length (!), check the RD for a bent cage (!), Clean and Lube Everything (!!!) then check the adjustments.
    I like the one Simplex retrofriction lever as a replacement
    it has "portacatena" dropouts, so '78 would be the absolute earliest possible...more likely a '79 or later.
    the frame is too big for me, but it rides nicely and doesnt feel too large. i have taken out the seatpost and fully polished it of all rust and other junk but unfortunately it is all marred from having always been in a low position,
    the seat i am fine with for now, it is leather, has alloy rails, and is basically brand new, no rips or marks, but i realize it is not the correct era of the bike.

    as for stripping it, i dont think i would ever find the time to put it back together once it has been stripped down, for now i think i will just try to tear down one piece every weekend. when i first got it i was being very methodical in cleaning and stripping each part, i started at the back and completely tore down the RD and rebuilt it with fresh grease in the bearings, i also tore down the rear wheel and polished the cassette to a level i would call food grade, but eventually i gave up on that way for the benefits of being able to ride it.
    thats a good tip on the wax, is there a particular type or? how would i find that?
    the chain, RD, back wheel, and FD and crank set have all been thoroughly cleaned. but it was sitting over winter so they have since collected some dust.
    the rear cog is 4.5 inches diameter and 26 teeth if that helps? the one down from it is 4 inches and 23 teeth
    i have checked out the RD and most of the drive train for anything bent, there is an italian bike specialist near my house and i am thinking of taking it to them if they can guarantee me a fix, but i am sure they charge out the ass. i lubed the chain with dry graphite spray, and for awhile it was squeeky but now that it has sit for a few months it seems to be good to go, it was just something i wanted to try before committing to a wet chain lube.
    what i really want to know is what are some ways to get the shiny bits really shiny? i tried a few things, including one of those drill attachment red polishing balls for car rims, and creme metal polish, but it didnt really do as much as i had hoped, i just remember those amazing polishing wheels from Metals class in high school,

    i have heard that tinfoil and wd-40 will make things shine and remove black spots, also before i had cleaned it up the forks and rear chromed leg (what is the correct term?) were alot worse looking, but i think they still have some more shine in them with the right technique
    Last edited by Freeload; 04-04-10 at 12:09 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JunkYardBike View Post
    This just popped up in my ebay saved searches. Looks like it lasted just over 24 hours before it sold for $1350 BIN. At first I thought it was yours, but there are differences and it looks cleaner. Seller claims '78 like you (where did you establish the date?)

    Depending on condition, that pantographed stuff + frameset could potentially sell for more than $1350 parted out, but probably only if it's in pristine condition (scratches on levers takes it down a notch, for example).

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:B:SS:US:1123

    thats a gorgeous bike, if that is considered an 8/10 then i would say mine is definately in the 5/10 range, all the bits have road rash for the most part except the brakes, but that is to be expected because supposedly the bike was only sitting since around the late 90's, and the previous owner had used it for road marathons. while i realize the scratches greatly reduce the value of parts, at the same time you are going to bail eventually and get things scratched up, hell i have bailed a few times on this and its nice to know that i wasnt the first (again with the dangerously fast haha) also the vancouver market is pretty whack on craigslist, even Apollo's get $200 here, anything old and racey gets $100. personally i think as a collector piece the bike is worthless, but as an actual for use bike i think it is pretty decent.

    where i got the date from was that i saw a page on one of those "show off your bike" sites and it was the exact twin of my bike and he seemed pretty keen on it being a '78, what are some better was to tell?? i know you can look by parts and i seem to remember double checking but i cant remember for sure.

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    Stop reading my posts! unworthy1's Avatar
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    the foil trick is a bit of a crock, IMHO. You can try some quality polish like Mother's, Simichrome, etc. But the oxalic acid soak will do it too, if you commit to the complete tear-down and rebuild. After a point, there's no bringing back chrome plating that's lost, if it's really pitted it will stay pitted. But some surface freckling can be removed so it's almost as good as new...oxalic acid does that job, and many of those non-abrasive polishes have OA as an active ingredient..
    The SR derailleur should be able to handle a 26T rear cog...I like Zymol auto wax (cause it smells like a pina colada!), but any good wax works. Cleaner wax has an abrasive to clean off old oxidized paint. If you don't want that you must choose a NON cleaner wax (Mother's makes one, but these are hard to find).

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    are the front forks actually chromed or just polished metal? what about just like saying screw the chrome and holding things against a polishing wheel until they are smooth (i remember taking out file marks and the like with a polish wheel in school, and just making random bits of metal shine like mirrors without too much work??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Freeload View Post
    where i got the date from was that i saw a page on one of those "show off your bike" sites and it was the exact twin of my bike and he seemed pretty keen on it being a '78, what are some better was to tell?? i know you can look by parts and i seem to remember double checking but i cant remember for sure.
    The braze-on front derailleur also makes it later. One thing you can't go by is other people's estimates of the ages of their bikes, unless you can confirm that they're exceptionally knowledgeable or have an original sales slip. Even "original owners" are wrong all the time. You can also check the date codes on the rear derailleur and the crank arms. This is not perfectly reliable, as parts can be changed, but it gives you something to go by in combination with the frame details. I'd bet it's early 80's, maybe 1983, give or take, but that's as a non-Guerciotti expert. What makes you believe the pedals are Super Record and not SL? (Crankset is Super Record, BTW, and not Nuovo Record).

  13. #13
    Since 1938... JunkYardBike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freeload View Post
    are the front forks actually chromed or just polished metal? what about just like saying screw the chrome and holding things against a polishing wheel until they are smooth (i remember taking out file marks and the like with a polish wheel in school, and just making random bits of metal shine like mirrors without too much work??
    Most of those components, like the crankset, brakeset, rear derailleur, et al are anodized, so they won't polish up. If you want them to have a high polish, you need to strip the anodizing and polish. However, once stripped, you'd have to maintain that high polish, because bare aluminum oxidizes.

  14. #14
    Since 1938... JunkYardBike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picchio Special View Post
    The braze-on front derailleur also makes it later. One thing you can't go by is other people's estimates of the ages of their bikes, unless you can confirm that they're exceptionally knowledgeable or have an original sales slip. Even "original owners" are wrong all the time. You can also check the date codes on the rear derailleur and the crank arms. This is not perfectly reliable, as parts can be changed, but it gives you something to go by in combination with the frame details. I'd bet it's early 80's, maybe 1983, give or take, but that's as a non-Guerciotti expert. What makes you believe the pedals are Super Record and not SL? (Crankset is Super Record, BTW, and not Nuovo Record).
    Freeload, by way of reference, Super Record pedals have a highly combustible titanium spindle, so unless a magnet doesn't stick to your pedal spindles, they are Superleggeri (SL).

  15. #15
    Amazing, but true...
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    I had a similar bike 2 years ago that an ex got from her dad and she left it in my shed when we parted ways. I got about $400 for the parts. The frame needed the top tube replaced (it was rusted through) and I still got $150 for it. I'd say, as a complete in that condition, $500-600 wouldn't be unheard of. Especially during this season.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JunkYardBike View Post
    Freeload, by way of reference, Super Record pedals have a highly combustible titanium spindle, so unless a magnet doesn't stick to your pedal spindles, they are Superleggeri (SL).
    hello, sorry i have been away for so long, i've been riding! just in the process of patching my back tubular (not fun) and decided to update this post

    so i checked my parts and on the RD is a 'pat .82' stamping and on the crankset it says Strada 170 (2) so it seems that yes indeed the bike is an '82 or atleast the parts are. also in regards to the SR pedals, i have a highpowered neodymium magnet and it will stick to the pedal body but NOT the spindle so therefore i believe i should watch for spindle explosion :/

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