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  1. #1
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Pampered 1988 Miyaya Nine Twelve

    I think it`ll be fairly clear from this post that I`m not particularly interested in selling this bike. My primary intention is actually to encourage some people to look a little differently at some older machines.

    OK For starters I`ll post the original specs on this machine, which wasn`t the top of the line bike that MiYata produced that year, but was fairly respectable nevertheless, and the price vs average wages at that point in time made it something that wasn`t a casual purchase.

    Frame: STB chromoly triple butted tubing with top tube routed rear brake cable.
    Fork: AC-II crown; chromoly spline; TF ends

    Crank set: Shimano 600 with BB 6400
    Front chainrings: 52 / 42 Shimano Biopace
    Chain: Shimano 600 UG
    Front deralleur: Shimano 600
    Rear cassette: Shimano 6 cog (13, 14, 15, 17, 20, 24T)

    Seat post: Strong NS-3 230L
    Seat: Selle Italia Mundialita

    Wheelset: Wolber Alpina 700c SHA 36H rims with 14G SS spokes and Shimano 600 hubs.

    Brake levers: Shimano 600 Aero levers
    Brakes: Shimano 600
    Bars: Kusuki WP-B (WinPista) Alloy bars and Kusuki Win Sigma stem
    Headset bearings: Shimano 600

    Rear deralleur: Shimano 600 with ceramic bearing in top pulley
    Shifters: Shimano 600 SIS downtube mounted shifters, selectable (SIS is optional)

    Tires: ?
    Weight: 23lbs

    OK so those are the ORIGINAL specs. I did make a few changes, but kept all the original parts except the seat and tires and chain. I should mention that I have a few bikes, am well equipped to do my own maintenaince, and so this particular machine probably has less than 2,000 miles on it. And it lives inside when I`m not riding it.

    So just after getting the bike, the original wheelset was supplimented with a Mavic Cosmic Elite wheelset . Identical tires (Michlin Axial BiSport 700 x 23c and Schwalbe tubes are on both wheelsets). The breaking is smoother on the ?avics because they have machined sidewalls. The Wolbers, in spite of having some high tech touches like stainless offset eyelets and a hard anodized finish, have barely perceptable variations in the braking surface that is a direct result of the machining process for drilling and installing the eyelets. I guess once the HA coating on the rims is gone - it might smooth out entirely. I don`k know cause I`m not there yet and its only noticable at speeds below 20km/h. On the other hand the Wolbers are unbelievably strong and stable. I`ve had them in downhill sweepers at speeds of up to 115km/h. Not sure if I`d do that with the Mavics.

    The rear cassette was swapped out for a Shimano HG 7 sp (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 26T) Some of the scenic roads arount Mount Royal made that seem like a good idea. At the same time the chain was upgraded to a Shimano HG-91 narrow.

    Subsequently the seat was replaced with an Avocet O2 Air 40 Kevlar reinforced saddle with titanium rails. I also bought and installed some ITM Dual Aerobars (alloy) and installed Sprintech dropbar end mirrors.

    The pedals are still the original Shimano 600 with toeclips. I don`t race - I`m a better mechanic than rider.

    So from my point of view - the bike is as much fun to drive as Kona`s $2,500 cromoly retro Kapu. And to be honest- equipped with skinny tires - neither one of them will stop very well. The brake pads were updated to 2010 Ultegra pads which improved braking performance dramaticall but personally I'd still prefer wider tires and there just isn't room.

    The wheel set, seat, latex tubes and Schwalbe tires has dropped the weight to below 22lbs with the original bar. Adding the ITM puts the weight back where it started.

    So considering that the newest component on my Miyata is still 10 years old (tires aside), even thought the finish is excellent - its still `not current technology`

    What would it be worth to you??


    Yeah - I can post some pictures.
    Last edited by Burton; 12-31-11 at 06:21 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member tugrul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    I think it`ll be fairly clear from this post that I`m not particularly interested in selling this bike. My primary intention is actually to encourage some people to look a little differently at some older machines.
    I'm not sure I understand, you realize we are the choir here?
    Looking for Quick release for a BR-6208 Cotter pin press

  3. #3
    Senior Member sauze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tugrul View Post
    I'm not sure I understand, you realize we are the choir here?
    + 1 , plus yes we do need pics

  4. #4
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    OK - looked up a few photos

    DSC06415a 600 x 900.jpg3597140696_f84d36bb90_o.jpgDSC06485b 600 x 800.jpgDSC02377a 600 x 800.jpgthese shots are all taken within the last year and a half and are very representative of the present condition of the bike.

    The water bottles were souveniers from Colombia and are insulated. Frozen in the freezer, they take about 4 hours to unthaw in the sun.

    The rack and rear bag kinda floats from bike to bike and that day ended up on this one.

    The squirrel - well .... hitch-hikers apparently come in all shapes and sizes.
    Last edited by Burton; 02-15-11 at 06:39 PM.

  5. #5
    The Left Coast, USA FrenchFit's Avatar
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    Well, I have bought several older Miyatas, the last a gold Twelve Hundred (82). For me, I want stock and not because I'm a purist. When it comes to upgrading an older bike, I want to select each component to suit my requirements (retrogrouch), and leave others alone, unmolested. For 80s bikes in great original, fairly unridden, condition, I've been paying low-mid $400s. For non-pro level more like mid-$300.

  6. #6
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Kinda agree with you

    Quote Originally Posted by FrenchFit View Post
    Well, I have bought several older Miyatas, the last a gold Twelve Hundred (82). For me, I want stock and not because I'm a purist. When it comes to upgrading an older bike, I want to select each component to suit my requirements (retrogrouch), and leave others alone, unmolested. For 80s bikes in great original, fairly unridden, condition, I've been paying low-mid $400s. For non-pro level more like mid-$300.
    Agreed - thats what many of them are going for - which in many cases makes them a steal relative to a new one.

    Should also mention that what you`re looking at is MY OWN choice in component selection to suit MY OWN requirement.

    Aside from the seat and tires - all the stock parts are simply shelved. Reality is - if I was looking for money - the bike would be worth more sold in parts than as a complete bike.

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