w98seeng

I bought this Cannondale at an auction yesterday for $42. It has a complete 105 6 speed group on it, including the headset and hubs.

There is no model name on it and since it is for flipping, I would like to know the year and the approximate price I should expect to get.

I would think since it's a 6 speed (is this original to the bike?) I would figure early to mid 80's.

Also, I am thinking of asking $225 and getting $200, is this about right or is it worth more or less?

Also, is the fork correct? It looks bent, but both sides are exactly the same and there are no kinks in the tubing.

Is this a 49cm frame?

Any info would be great,
Ian

Bianchigirll 

It is around a '87 bike but


IF YOU REALLY HAVE TO ASK IF THE FORK IS OK YOU SHOULD PROBALLY NOT BE IN THE FLIPPING BUSINESS

w98seeng

Like I said, it looks bent, but there is no sign of damage to the paint or the tubing, also both sides of the fork are the exact same. The wheel does not hit the frame and rolls true.

Do you know everything about bikes? If so, I am amazed since I have never known anyone who knows everything about anything. I ask since I don't know.

Maybe this was some new design that Cannonade tried, who knows, not me, so I ask.

Flipping is not a business for me, it's a hobby.

Ian

10 Wheels

This one is not bent.

Bianchigirll 

No I do not know everything about bikes and I am learning everyday here. As for this bike... it appears that the front wheel actually hits the downtube making the bike unsteerable if rideable at all. Also looking at the angle of the brake pads in relation to the rim sseems to indicate that the bike was crashed and them stashed in the garage. Those two things should indicate to almost anyone that the bike was crashed and therefore the fork is ruined.

PS I would be looking for a flat spot in the front rim too

w98seeng

Well, the fork is not a special design, it is bent, as I thought, but it still looks cool.

I thought the 3.0 on the frame was the type of aluminum it was made of, but that is the model, it's a Cannondale 3.0, around 1987-1990.

I noticed the rear dropouts and how the rear seat stay wes welded to the front of it and looked on Google for a frame like this when searching 1987 Cannondale (thanks Bianchigirll, Sorry for the attitude before, I appreciate the help.)

Ian

T-Mar

It appears to be a 1989 SR400. The frame itself is pretty rough cosmetically. I suspect the front wheel also needs some work, in addition to the fork. I don't know if this justifes the work, especially if you can't do it yourself. In the end, it may be just as profitable to part it out.

w98seeng

Looking at pics of a 1989 SR400, I would have to agree. The frame does look tired, but most of are light scratches and remnants of stickers, I'll see what it looks like after a good cleaning.

If I were to part it out, is there a market for a complete 105 6 speed group, including the wheels (no flat spot in the front wheel, spins true)?

Can the fork be bent back into shape? I have other forks I can use, but I have to check the length.

Ian

dphi 

The bent fork police finally get an easy case to solve!

FastJake

+1

That fork is really wrecked. Often forks can be bent back in minor cases, but I would just toss that one. IMO the good part is that since the headtube is so short if you found a tall 1" threaded fork you could probably cut off the threading and still have enough steerer tube to run it with a threadless headset and stem.

But this bike might not justify the expense if you don't have the parts on hand. You should be able to get more than $42 on a part out.

w98seeng

I have a couple of threadless headsets I can use, so I have to check what I have for forks.

Thanks for the info, this can work.
--------------------------------------------

Thanks all for the help. It's amazing how much info you can get on the internet. If I knew it would be so easy to get info on a 23 year old bike, I would have looked there first.

Serial # 50 032789 029

50cm frame

Production Date - March 27 1989

Sequence Number - 29

T-Mar

Most forks can safely be re-aligned, providing there are no wrinkles or creases in the blades themselves. However, replacement forks are quite inexpensive with unicrown, hi-tensile forks available for as little as $20-$25This is about what a fork straightening would cost.

Vancouver is a pretty hot market. I would think you get get around $100 for the group.

w98seeng

With the fork replaced, is $200 unrealistic to get for the bike?

Ian

T-Mar

That's hard to say. Personally, I think the frame looks very rough and a mismatched fork will send up caution signals in kowledgeable buyers but Vancouver is a hot marjet, so you never know. You can the roll the dice and take your chances or play it safe and take a definite profit on a part out.

rccardr 

Is it just me, or do the bike decals say 'cannondale' in one pic and 'carnonodale' in another?

Same bent fork, though.

T-Mar

Yep, those decals appear to be disintegrating rapidly!

w98seeng

I think I'll take your advise and part it out.


Yeah, I did a little touch-up on the decals with Paint Shop to see if I could print them out on decal paper. I was thinking of repainting the frame when I first got it.

Ian

Bianchigirll 

You could take the bar/stem off rotate the fork 180d and sell it as a rare aluminum Bates

wrk101

Yes, its the quite rare Carnonodale, its the italian version. Surprised you haven't heard of it...... They sometimes disguised it by putting Cannondale decals on just one side. So you have to check every decal to see if you have the rare Carnonodale. BB will be italian if it is a "real" Carnonodale.

I've never seen one with the uber-rare curvy fork.

kc0yef 

with a carbon threadless fork $200 is not unreasonable at all.
The same bike is pulling $250 $300 with complete tri color Ultegra in Seattle I have seen three in CL in the past two months.

The 105 group: if it is all 105, complete; hubs headset pedals seat post crank BB shifters brakes brake levers is worth at least $100 so if you cannot find a good fork just take all the pars off and put it on a frame that commands more money, and wait til you find the correct fork. There were many frames that used that group.

jjhabbs 

I was a cannondale dealer that year. it was a SR500 I believe.

roburrito

Upper left hand corner, is that what the seat stays are supposed to look like at the dropout? The raw metal seems to be a hint something is wrong there.

Shutter

Sometimes the drive side is factory pinched a bit for chain clearance... If that is the non drive side and not symmetric on both side then sonething is wrong there... But I am no expert...

Shutter

Just to add my two cents here...

I'm in Toronto, also a Hot bike market...

If I took that bike and replaced the forks ($30 easily because they are nothing special), replaced cables, bar tape, tuned it up so it was a clean safe rider I'm sure it would fetch a good $300 here... Your bike market is probably just as hot there

As a side note I would look into that pinch in the rear stay on the non drive side... Looks a little fishy but hard to tell from the pic if it is factory or not... Since it appears to be on the non drive side I would look into it...

4Rings6Stars

I replaced the original fork on my girlfriend's 50cm 1980's Cannondale with a carbon Serotta F1 fork. I still have the original steel threaded fork but it has been repainted purple... PM me if interested.