1999 Schwinn Super Sport
 

Hey guys, I found this clean 1999 super sport in my area for $180 http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...D/DSC05497.jpg What do you guys think? Is this bike worth it? Here are the specs off bikepedia if it helps any..

Frame Tubing Material 7005 aluminum w/replaceable derailleur hanger
Fork Brand & Model Schwinn
Fork Material Aluminum
Component Group Road Mix
Brakeset Shimano RSX Dual Pivot brakes, Shimano 105 STI levers
Shift Levers Shimano 105 STI Dual Control
Front Derailleur Shimano RSX top-swing
Rear Derailleur Shimano 105 GS
Crankset Shimano RX-100, 30/42/52 teeth

Thanks!
-Vince

Hi Vince,

The 1999 Super Sport shouldn't have an aluminum fork; it was delivered with a chromoly fork and that's a good thing. Here are the 1999 model specs from the 1999 Schwinn consumer catalog. I think you did OK for $180, but it's not a bargain.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7...1999_77med.jpg

Here's the geometry:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7..._LeTourGeo.jpg

I think $180 is a good price. RSX was basic but there's enough 105 to make it rather nice. STI equipped bikes usually sell for north of $300 around here, so I'd go for it.

Two considerations
- Does it fit you?
- Make sure the STI shifters work! They can go bad and are basically unrepairable.

Jake makes an excellent point. That's a very small frame, so make sure it fits you.

thanks for the help guys! The seller said it's a 54cm. How'd you tell its small? Are the shimano 105's a good thing? is this bike worth the 180? I was actually looking for a more vintage-y bike as my first, like an 85 miyata six ten, but this bike just looked too beautiful to me @_@ anything in particular I should check for?

Thanks,
-Vince

Vince, 105 is a good component group, and $180 is a fair price for the bike. Personally, I have never ridden a road bike with an aluminum frame that's been comfortable for me on long rides; they're just too stiff for me and they seem to transmit road vibration, making my teeth rattle. You may have an entirely different experience, so don't let my experiences influence you.

You'll want to lubricate all the bearings that aren't sealed, and check the derailleur and brake cables for wear, and the tires for cracking.

If you look at the geometry drawing, you'll see that the frame size is the seat tube length from the center of the crank to the top of the seat tube. If that measurement is 54cm (21-1/4"), then the seller was correct about the size. The 54cm 1999 Super Sport has a 55cm top tube.

This chart is a pretty good starting point for checking fit. Be sure to measure your leg length as described on the chart.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7...izingChart.jpg

Yes, it's worth $180.

How tall are you?

I'm 5'9 1/2'' damn, according to that chart i should be a 56 hmm?

I think a 54 would be too small for you. At 5' 9-1/2" even if you have relatively short legs, with a 55cm top tube you'd likely feel cramped on a frame that small.

I'm your height and I cannot comfortably ride a 54. I've tried on a couple bikes but they all end up getting sold because they just don't fit right. For me, the seat tube measurement goes like this:

54: no
55: ok for a race bike or short rides
56: perfect
57: great
58: ok, but can't quite standover
59-62: too tall, but rideable.

Top tube length is probably more important, but the issue for me on smaller frames is too much saddle to bar drop, resulting in me being bent way over. Usually if the seat tube is correct the top tube also fits me fine.

I'm not great at sizing aluminum bikes by eye, but this one looks even smaller than a 54cm. I'd keep shopping.

Alright thanks for the info guys. I'll just pass on it and wait. In the mean time.. any suggestions for around $150?

At the $150 mark, its unusual to find anything very decent, unless you look aggressively. The decent stuff starts around $200, STI bikes like the one above start at about $300. This is market value, in an average market. In a hot market, prices are higher, sometimes quite a bit higher.

It really depends on what you are looking for, and what you are going to use the bike for. At the lower price end of the market, rigid frame MTBs represent tremendous value. $125 to $150 will buy a top of the line vintage MTB here, one that might have originally sold for $800 or more.

The other challenge is often the "best" deals are neglected bikes, that need TLC. Unfortunately, unless you have the tools/time/aptitude/access to parts/space to do the repair work yourself, even a "free" bike can be a lousy deal by the time you are done.

First step is to figure out the type of bike you want, then the size you want. Then educate yourself on what makes a better bike. Realize that good deals go fast, really fast. There is no time to research later, someone else will be buying while you are researching.

Example: earlier this year I picked up a Cannondale for $50. Most would assume that was a smokin hot deal. Well, it needed work, a lot of work. What did it need? I had to replace both wheels, tires, tubes, cassette, chain, bottom bracket, crankset, grips, shifter (one), cables, seatpost. I am probably overlooking a couple of items. Needless to say, unless you had a pile of used parts that you obtained cheap, such a project would be a BIG loser.

The bike above appears to be in really good condition. If everything works, its a deal at that price. But if it does not fit, that does not matter.