JoshSlocum

From what I can gather the flat bar version of the Trek 1000 was only offered in 2003 which kind of puts it in the classic realm. The asking price is $285 which seems reasonable. BTW, I plan to ride it and ride over 2000 miles/yr mostly in the 25 to 50 mile range. I am thinking this would be some improvement over my (somewhat) altered 7.3 FX. In addition to price I would like to hear pros and cons of anyone familiar with it.

know1

Not a classic but that's ok.

A trek 1000 with flat bars is going to be really, really similar to a Trek 7.3fx imo. The only real difference besides a slight change in geometry would be the slightly thinner wheels/tires. You could just swap wheels or get the thinnest tires you can and achieve nearly the same thing at a lower cost imo.

The price seems fair in a good market (I think?). Not sure how much a flat bar conversion would deduct from the price of a 1000 (I'd be interested to hear opinions on this) but $285 is a bit less than a 2003 Trek 1000 would get here. However, I think the reason newish Trek 1000's with brifters hold their resale value so well is because they are a good/common entry level brifter bike and this is essentially a hybrid. I know you could get a pretty good hybrid (better than entry level) for $285.

Have you tried to get used to drop bars? Imo you should hold out and get something like a Trek 1000 with drops/brifters for just a bit more.

oddjob2

If you're going to spend 2-3 hours on a bike, you may want to consider drop bars, so you aren't locked into one riding position. I don't think there is a huge difference between your 7.3 and the 1000 in terms of components or weight.

FastJake

+2

The 1000 is extremely similar to the 7.3FX. I would not consider it an upgrade.

If you plan to ride that much seriously consider drop bars. They are so much more comfortable on long rides.

JoshSlocum

A couple of differences that I can see and deem pluses over my FX are the fork geometry and gearing. I don't care for the straight blade fork on the FX, especially over 20 mph. There seems to be a certain amount of instability or lack of fine control or whatever it is I experience.

FX gearing is 48/38/28 with 11-30 cassette vs. the 1000 with 52/42/30 and 11-28. Haven't run the math or checked the charts but my first impressions is I gain a little top end.

Also, I'm running 700 x 28 gatorskins on my FX. the 1000 comes with 700 x 25. Not a great deal of difference IMO. At least for what I do.

know1

It sounds like you could just swap the cassette or crank and achieve the same result, again at a lower price than replacing the entire bike. I guess it comes down to how much you want a new fork, which imo is going to make next to no difference.

My advice is to stick to your hybrid or make the full plunge to a road bike with drops. Most people who get serious about riding replace their hybrid with true road bike anyways so you're likely to go hybrid -> road bike converted to hybrid -> road bike which will have made things as difficult and expensive as they could be. Just my opinion!

FastJake

As far as gearing, use a gearing calculator to figure out the difference between 48/11 and 52/11. Realize some of the pros are running compact cranks now which gives a top gear of 50/11 and it is enough for them. If you're spinning out 48/11 downhill you will go faster by tucking, although that won't work quite as well with flat bars.

+1 I almost went the hybrid converted to road bike, but I'm glad I didn't. If you're ready for a road bike, and it sounds like you are, just get a road bike.

JoshSlocum

Economics and more. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all comments and discussion . . . but, bear in mind:

1) Fork geometry IS important, at least to me. I'm an old fart (68 in June) and I do not like a straight-blade fork such as on my FX. There is a difference! and that is most prevalent at higher speeds and when going no-handed.

2) I like riding more upright. I watch for and listen to birds. Not to mention all the stuff I find along the hwy.

3) I can sell the FX for what I pay for the 1000, maybe little more. Most everything (upgrades) will swap over: fenders, rack, lights, etc.

4) I am 200 miles from the nearest metro area where "deals" or even selection can be had.

Seems to me to be a "cost free" upgrade. Then again, that's why I am looking to you guys for input.

oddjob2

Regarding fork, are your axle cones tight enough to be slop free and same for your headset? I have a Marin 29er that is rock steady at 30+ mph.

JoshSlocum

Thanks, I appreciate your input and will take your advice. In fact, thanks to all who have responded.

digger531

I also ride drop bars but understand some just don't care for them. Trekking bars would be my suggestion.

As for the bike swap, meh. I don't think you are gaining enough for the hassle. If a smooth ride is what you are looking for, find and older steel (steel is real) road bike and make the conversion. Fatter tires will help the ride significantly but will also slow you down a little. I find the happy medium at 35mm (i am 210lbs) if you are lighter maybe 30mm.

zukahn1 

As for the drop bar idea Im not sure it would be worth the cost on this bike. Putting a apropriate set of drops with decent STI Brifters could get pretty pricey. Seems like a good bike for the price if your fine with the upright strait bars that are on it.