Johnny 831

Hi all! I found this Peugeot at the flea market and felt I had to save it. 501 Renoyld tubing, 12 speed, simplex components, 700 c rims. For $40 I thought why not. Small dent on the top tube but not crucial at all. Planning on cleaning and making it mechanically sound. Any initial thoughts about year / model? Haven't look into it yet, but any info would be appreciated! Cheers.

jyl

Catalogs

Start around 1980 and look forward (later years).

That bike probably doesn't need anything more than a thorough clean, lube, adjust. New chain, brake pads, maybe tires. Start by removing the seatpost and greasing it, hope it is not stuck.

oddjob2

Rainbow scheme, 501 fork and frame, quill seat post, probably a 1984 PGN 10. Looks to be a 54cm frame. Differences from my 1985 below include Nervar cranks and Simplex derailleurs. It is a great riding bike.

That top tube dent does affect market value and that's why you were able to buy it at a low price. BTW Vitesses is French for speeds, not the model designation. There should be a white paper tag on the left chain stay, where the bottom row will read PGN10 54.

https://cyclespeugeot.com/PDFs/1984pdf.pdf

Johnny 831

Hey thanks for the info! I think you comented on another post of mine, it's appreciated. Yeah bummer about the dent, not big but condition is everything from what I understand. I figured, it's got the 501 running and didn't actually see that dent. No worries though, it being cheap, I figured this was a good find as I probably couldn't afford this bike in mint condition hahaha, plus then I can hook the next guy up for cheap too.

I had another question though, the guy I get these bikes from is at the flea market tomorrow with an Olympique Tour De France, looks like a 70s, golden color from France, too big for me but thought it might be a good find.

Also a 80-90 shogun with newer components. I like the older ones, but are the newer ones still valuable? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks.

Johnny 831

Hey, the catalogs are awesome! Really appreciate it.

Johnny 831

Thanks for the info, nailed it!

Johnny 831

Did you find you needed to upgrade anything in particular with this bike?

Chombi

For an excellent mid level sport bike from Peugeot at the time, there's really not much "needed" in upgrades on the bike. Maybe better, more servicable pedals (if the bike still has the mostly unserviceable version of Maillard's aero CXC pedals, which I think came standard on these bikes), and a saddle which works best for your body. Fortunately, you have the first, 84 version of the bike that does not have Delrin parts on its saddle rail clamp assembly that sometimes tend to crack from UV degeneration, and a full metal headset. but one thing you have to watch out for is that unique just to 1984 Peugeots, grub screw seatpost anchoring system (Vitus had a similar system, but used a more advanced design pivoting bearing tipped grub screw and a more robust seat cluster threaded base that seem to anchor the seatpost better to the seat tube in most conditions). Some owners tend to over tighten these and actually damage the threaded boss on the seat tube which will be quite expensive and difficult to fix. This is one instance that I could not recommend greasing the seatpost so it will have enough friction against the front of the seat tube to keep the seatpost from slipping down from road shock and weight of the rider. Otherwise, all that's left to do is to replace any worn/aged "expendables" like cables, brake pads, bar tape, tires and tubes and maybe trueing and re-tensioning the wheels and a full service to get the bike ready for the road again.
A possible stage 2 upgrade could be the change of the drivetrain to 8+ speed indexed system and brifters but that's a whole different story and will cost quite a much more than the very few upgrades I mentioned previous.

RacerX1

Beautiful bike! Once you get it sorted out this is a $200-$250 bike all day long and that is being conservative. Of course it depends on where you are selling it but still. This seems to be a regular seller on eBay where people are willing to pay the shipping in addition to the sell price so check the sold listings and you can get confirmation from what I said.

miamijim

You'll find a few nuances with the '84...

1. Set screw for seat post. A better alternative is to an internally expanding post (not easy or cheap)
2. Funky braze-on FD. Positioning of the braze-on limits you to the Simplex. There may be an odd ball FD that'll fit above or below the braze-on butit's been decads since messed with one.
3. Threading. Could me a mix of British/French/Swiss. I'm inclined to say French fork and Swiss BB.

$225 in Tampa...more in the bay area (your bay area not mine)

Johnny 831

Hey there, I was curious if you could educate me on the french threading of the pedals? I want to swop them out, but don't know what brands will be compatible for the nevar cranks. I have Japanese Pro Vic pedals, and Italian Coompagnolo, but they don't go on with just fingers like the original french pedals (which aren't so great as you have pointed out). Any info would be appreciated! Cheers.

oddjob2

If your other pedals don't fit then get some French pedals.

French Bicycles

Chombi

The pedals on your bike might have markings on what threading they are 14 x 125 = French Threading...... 9/16 = "standard" (ISO?) threading. some also noted before that if the pedal axle flats have a "D" and A "G" marks on n it for "Droite" and "Gauche" French for right and left. Supposedly having that indicates most likely that it is french threaded. Problem sometimes is, some pedals, especially the cheaper ones, have no marking on them at all, and the only way to find out what threading they are, is to try to install them on crankarms that you know what the pedal hole threading is.

TugaDude

I have similar Nervar cranks on two bikes. Both were ISO threaded so I didn't have any issues. YMMV.

icepick_trotsky 

There's nothing wrong with a Nervar, but if you feel like upgrading it, you could get a TA Cyclotouriste. Best french crank ever. Maybe best touring crank ever.

Johnny 831

Hey thanks Tuga, when you say ISO, what does that mean? Would Jampanese or Italian pedals fall under the ISO banner?

Johnny 831

Hey Chombi, yes the pedals have a D and G on them, and have no thread count markings that I see. I hear you about trying them on other cranks, or possibly trying pedals on the nevar cranks. At this point ima try to get familiar with french pedals and grab some when I get a chance. Thanks!

Johnny 831

This was really helpfull, thanks again!

Johnny 831

Thanks guys for all the help and info! I'm really excited to get this bike back on the road. My first road bike was a Peugeot, but sadly was stolen and I've been wanting to get another one for a while now. Not a high end bike, but people are complimenting the style. I haven't gotten to ride my two bikes from the early 80s with the braze on DT shifters, and 700c rims. My other is a Bridgetone RB-3, which I know is bottom tier for that line, but right now I'm really interested in getting my basic mechanics skills up, and am on a budget so these low end bikes are perfect. I've been going to local flea markets and picking up whatever looks interesting. Super stoked about joining up with this site as it's already proven to be helpful, and members are actually active! I'll be sure to post more pics of the bike as it gets up and running.

Johnny 831

Thanks guys for all the help and info! I'm really excited to get this bike back on the road. My first road bike was a Peugeot, but sadly was stolen and I've been wanting to get another one for a while now. Not a high end bike, but people are complimenting the style. I haven't gotten to ride my two bikes from the early 80s with the braze on DT shifters, and 700c rims. My other is a Bridgetone RB-3, which I know is bottom tier for that line, but right now I'm really interested in getting my basic mechanics skills up, and am on a budget so these low end bikes are perfect. I've been going to local flea markets and picking up whatever looks interesting. Super stoked about joining up with this site as it's already proven to be helpful, and members are actually active! I'll be sure to post more pics of the bike as it gets up and running.

miamijim

Mind if I ask which flea markets? I was out there for 5 weeks this past August and didn't find anything. Reply to my email if you don't want to tip anyone off as to where you go...and I might be able to give you a few tips jim2527@hotmail.com

trailangel

I had one of those PGN10 in the eighties, bought brand new to replace the PX10e (bought new in 74)that was stolen.
I couldn't afford the higher end Peugeot so I got the PGN10.. and it was a nice ride.
It too was stolen.

Johnny 831

I don't mind! It's really hit or miss... I go to the San Jose flea market on at the capital drive ins, and the Santa Cruz flea market. I hit up a bike swap at Trailhead Cyclery that they have bi annually. There is a dude at the flea market who comes with a beat up moving van that usually has like 10 bikes, mostly beaters, but sometimes decent bikes. I've bought about 4 bikes from this guy, sold two so far. This is another one I picked up from him recently...
Bridgestone Cyclone (70s?), with a Ted Williams free spirit headlight (repainting the Ted Williams atm), SR cranks from a C. Itoh, and Jun handlebars. O and a Suntour Perfect casset with race gearing (14-21T ?). I put ARII rear derail., and Suntour SL front derail with the original Suntour DT shifters. Super good fit for me and it has some cool braze on features. Get lots of compliments about the paint, and picked it up for $25.


I'm starting to look for auctions and estate sales, but not much luck yet.

Johnny 831

Sorry to bug you more, I had a question about the cranks. I tried my crank puller on the nevar cranks, and it keeps cross threading. I'm wondering if it's a different threading than Japanese cranks? Or maybe someone stripped it out already. I didn't mess with the bottom bracket because of this, but it seems to be in good working order so I skipped it for now. Any thoughts are appreciated!

Also, I went ahead and trued a par of rims from the RB-3 I have instead of going with the original Helio Hub. I was reading on Sheldon Brown that the hub tended to break spokes and limits which cassettes you can swop out. Maybe I'll fix it up later, but I had these other rims with a Shimano 600 6 speed cassette (which has better I want to say high end gearing? Less climbing more flat land speed).

Spent a few hours this Sunday afternoon... Here is where I'm at so far...
New cables / cable housing, repacked headset with fresh park tool grease, scrubbed the surface race off, tuned the derailleurs and its good to go now. Might grab a new chain, new handlebar tap, and a kick stand, but that's about it for this one. After seeing your bike, I'm really excited to ride tomorrow!

oddjob2

[QUOTE=Johnny 831;17334391]Sorry to bug you more, I had a question about the cranks. I tried my crank puller on the nevar cranks, and it keeps cross threading. I'm wondering if it's a different threading than Japanese cranks? Or maybe someone stripped it out already. I didn't mess with the bottom bracket because of this, but it seems to be in good working order so I skipped it for now. Any thoughts are appreciated!

Also, I went ahead and trued a par of rims from the RB-3 I have instead of going with the original Helio Hub. I was reading on Sheldon Brown that the hub tended to break spokes and limits which cassettes you can swop out. Maybe I'll fix it up later, but I had these other rims with a Shimano 600 6 speed cassette (which has better I want to say high end gearing? Less climbing more flat land speed).

Spent a few hours this Sunday afternoon... Here is where I'm at so far...
New cables / cable housing, repacked headset with fresh park tool grease, scrubbed the surface race off, tuned the derailleurs and its good to go now. Might grab a new chain, new handlebar tap, and a kick stand, but that's about it for this one. After seeing your bike, I'm really excited to ride tomorrow!
/QUOTE]

Be careful with alloy cranks, as the aluminum threads are brittle and soft. Grease the crank puller threads and try again. YMMV, but vintage TA and Stronglight need a larger diameter tool, which does not appear to be the case here.

Helicomatic hubs require helicomatic cassettes, due to the spiral design. Bearings are mounted outboard as well. The cassettes are no longer produced and can be expensive to replace. They were OEM on Peugeot and Trek road bikes from the 1980's.

FYI, this is the NO KICKSTANDS forum.